Water babies at Versailles
As the sea of humanity surged past me up the platform, I had to wonder just how much I was going to enjoy the experience of Versailles . The 7 million yearly visitors couldn’t all be wrong, but I’d had the impression that at least half of them had been on the train with me!
I had crisscrossed Paris to join the RER train to Versailles-Rive Gauche on line C5, at Javel Metro station. Standing on the platform, with a twitch of anticipation, I could see the Eiffel Tower looming in the distance as I watched for the approach of my double decker train. This was to have been a first- a ride upstairs on a train- but it was not to be! When the train pulled in, it was already full to sufficiency, and I had to spend the journey leaning up against a swaying wall. Just a little deflated, I had 30 minutes in which to wonder whether Versailles could possibly hold this volume of people.
Arriving at the palace gates, I felt hugely relieved that I ‘d had the foresight to book tickets for the gardens online. The queues were immense, but following the signs to the right, I slipped peacefully past the ticket barrier and into the empty gardens. No queue! This might not be so bad, after all. The day was rather overcast, but I had 20 minutes to explore before the fountains were turned on at 11.00am.
There wasn’t any question that this place was built to impress, and impress it did! I felt a thrill of excitement as the fountains began to trickle. In a few moments my cherubs were magically clothed in a veil of water.
Holding hands!
A gentleman with a large ‘key’ made his way around the gardens, in an unhurried fashion, turning on the fountains in sequence. The race was on to visit as many of the garden rooms as possible before the fountains stopped again at 12.00.
Here we go!
Laying down on the job?
Note the hooves
Taking aim!
Fountain of Apollo’s Chariot with the Grand Canal in the background
You might have noticed the odd umbrella in the background. A light drizzle had started to fall. With just a few minutes till the fountains ceased playing, it was time to consider food and shelter. As the skies suddenly opened, instant decision was required and ‘La Flotille’ was the nearest port in a storm. With my back to the burners and the rain pouring off the awning, a Grand Marnier crepe and a pichet of Bordeaux helped to pass the time rather nicely.
Half an hour later, the sun made a welcome appearance. A couple of rowers were out on the Grand Canal, but a gentle stroll to the Grand Trianon seemed a better bet. Dappled sunshine and puddles- such a nice combination!
There were still more garden rooms to visit and I had my favourites. The Ballroom was landscaped by Le Notre in 1680 and is decorated with millstones and shells brought back from the Indian Ocean and the Red Sea by the French Navy of that time.
The Mirror Fountain was commissioned by Louis XIV in 1702. It currently performs to music at 10 minute intervals all day long- the only fountain to do so.
Dancing to the music of Rameau and Lully
Climbing the steps back up to the Water Parterres, I could look down on the Orangerie in all its magnificence. The clouds came and went but the beauty was endless.
The Orangerie, beautifully laid out
Seen from above
And with moody skies
850 hectares of parks and gardens means little to me, but I can tell you that it was huge, and absorbed all those people from my train with ease. And many more! The fountains play again from 15.30 to 17.00 and at 17.20 the grand finale of the Neptune Fountain.
On Saturday evenings throughout the Summer there is a Fountains Night Show. What a spectacle that must be! The Versailles website is a wealth of information and I could recommend a visit to anyone. Because of the scale of the place a little disruption from renovation is inevitable and on my visit the Latona Parterre and Water Theatre Grove were unavailable.
The incomparable chateau
Are you wondering about the Chateau? I had made a conscious decision to limit my visit to the grounds. I did not want to share the Hall of Mirrors and in August there would have been little choice. Another day, maybe!
Versailles is chalk and cheese with my lovely Giverny, but there’s room for both in this world. Don’t you think?
restlessjo 
Wow! Wow! Wow! Versailles blew me away when I visited and it was the grounds that I always remember. As you say, it is huge. I don’t remember visiting any other chateau, castle or house with gardens as big as this. Your photos of the fountains are superb, picking out all the fabulous detail. I would love to go back to Versailles and it is so easy to do on a day trip from Paris. I would really like to see it in the snow.
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Thanks so much, Col 🙂 I’ve lost track of your travels lately because I don’t do Facebook so much. I bet you’ve cooked up something wonderful- you usually do!
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This is the first time that I hear “chalk and cheese” expression :D. Thank you. It is nice to see you made best of your visit and took really, really good photos of your element. Well done!
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It suits rather well for Versailles and Giverny, don’t you think? 🙂 I enjoy playing with words and funny expressions the way that you do with photos, Paula 🙂 My photos are more a question of luck.
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😀
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Thanks for another fabulous tour Jo. Like Andrew I went 30 years ago! We aren’t huge fans of ornate baroque architecture, so we skipped it on our recent visit.
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I think once is enough, Madhu, but I would have liked to see inside the Palace. Andrew managed to go for one of the evening spectaculars. Now THAT made me jealous 🙂 🙂
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Spectaculaire mon amie! My favourite is the Fountain of Apollo’s Chariot, for some reason that photo really grabbed me and I had to keep going back to it! As you say, very different to Giverny but variety is the spice of life and this looks like another fabulous day out. Thanks again Jo for sharing your wonderful photos and bringing your Versailles to those of us who have never visited – yet 😉
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You’d better plan a week, Sherri 🙂 5 nights was just a little tight! Thank you 🙂 I’ve enjoyed posting about my trip so much. Hope you have a nice weekend lined up.
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I will take note of that Jo 🙂 Had a lovely weekend thanks, just what was needed. Got a couple of good walks in 😉 Hope you did too…no doubt getting ready for the off today, right? 🙂
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I just love water fountains Jo … any water fountain! How I would love to have all of those in my garden as well. Stunning shots hon and thanks so much for sharing this beauty! Love it! 😀
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They make you feel like a kid all over again, don’t they? 🙂 I love them too! Thanks for your lovely visit, Sonel.
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🙂 So very nice pictures, Jo !!! We never came (of our 3 or 4 times, I think 4–we would show our U.S. visitors) when the fountains were playing. But I can see we missed a very lot. Maybe next time?
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See you in the morning, I did my 6WS before turning out the lights.
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Good idea, Jim 🙂 I often prepare my 6WS in advance but I was at a Girl’s night last night and didn’t get the chance.
I think I’d struggle with 4 times! I arranged our Paris schedule so that we could visit on a ‘fountains’ day. I forgot to include in the post what days they play but it’s a little late now 😦
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WOW!! Thank you for posting all this AND for going so I don’t have to!! The best part was catching the fountain statues before the water. One or two of all this “splendor” would be enough to satiate me! It is incredible.
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Yes, Louis XIV had very grand ideas, Sammy. Think of all the housework in that palace, too! Miss Clumsy with a duster would never be allowed near 🙂
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Gorgeous post Jo! I’d visited Versailles 20 years ago when I lived in Paris. I would love to go back today again and see it through more patient eyes. Lovely photos!
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Thanks, Nicole 🙂 It’s taken me a lot more than 20 years to get there so I had to make the most of my time.
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thank you for this wonderful post and gorgeous pictures! i’m actually going to be in paris next month and will be visiting versailles! so excited! 🙂
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You’re very welcome, and thank you! I would be excited too. It’s beautiful 🙂
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Beautiful photos Joanne. I love the Orangerie garden, all laid out symmetrically.
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I rather like ‘regimented’ gardens, too, Sami, thanks. Michael says I’m a control freak 🙂
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What an elegant era these beautifully taken pictures represent, Jo. We will skip this, but am glad to see it through your eyes. Those gardens and fountains are such a delight.
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Queuing outside L’Orangerie, chatting to a couple from Hobart, we realised how very lucky we’d been, Lynne. It poured the whole day they went to Versailles and they got very, very wet at Giverny. Must be due a dry spell? 🙂 🙂
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Another wonderful post Jo! So informative and such wonderful photos. It is years since I went to Versailles and I have yet to go round the actual palace – I’ve only seen the grounds so it has certainly brought back happy memories. I’m so impressed with the detailed description you give – so helpful for anyone planning a trip there in the future. Thanks for sharing 🙂
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People like you are a joy to write for, Rosemay. 🙂 It’s wonderful to try and bring a place alive with just a few words and photos. I enjoy it so much.
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Thanks Jo 🙂 I really enjoy reading all your posts and am so glad I found my way to your blog. You have done an amazing job with it – it’s truly a labour of love and that really shines through! I’m loving the world of blogging – it’s a wonderful way to connect with people with similar interests. Have a great weekend too 🙂
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Gosh, Jo. And I’m impressed by the way you captured the amazingness of Versailles. Nice to see it through your eyes. It’s ages since I was there.
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Thanks a lot, Tish 🙂 It’s nice to evoke a few memories.
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The gardens are beautiful. I would have felt overwhelmed by the size and beauty. I’ve never been to Versailles. Thank you for sharing your trip.Your photos are gorgeous.
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Hi Nicki 🙂 Thank you! I found so much beauty to capture in just a few short days. I’m so lucky 🙂
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…See, I don’t know if I saw a QUARTER of the grounds there!!…Oh, well–I guess that’s for another visit, then, :-)!!…
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There were A LOT of grounds to see, Betty 🙂 And most of it was beautiful!
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…Indeed, :-)…
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Nymphs and cherubs abound Jo. Apollo’s Chariot is just Wow! I’ve not been to Versailles, it looks amazing…
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Sounds like you need a Paris visit to me, Suze 🙂 It’s fitting it in, isn’t it?
It was pretty impressive but it didn’t tug my hearts strings like Giverny. 🙂
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I love the statue sequence you begin with, and your fountain shots are magnificent. You capture the scale and design of the place beautifully – it almost makes Wilanòw look like a cottage with a cottage garden. Thank you again for taking me to places I will never visit.
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There can’t be too many palaces in this world as grand as Versailles, Meg. Though Andrew Petcher says St. Petersburg is as good (it’s been on my ‘list’ forever!). I’d have liked to see inside the chateau too but I’m glad you think I did the gardens justice. Thanks a lot for your kind words. 🙂
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The fountains and gardens are, indeed, beautiful. But the chateau takes the cake!
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I should have gone in, but if you saw the queues 😦
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Been looking forward to reading about Versailles as despite all my Paris visits I’ve still never made it there! Had my concerns about the crowds too but I think it looks like it would be well worth it. maybe next time eh?
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I think you should, Lucy. Maybe not in August! 🙂
I was just thinking about you because I saw some of your lovely photos on Flickr. Where are you currently?
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I’m home at the moment – was hoping for a nice August in the garden but it’s not quite happened! Back on the road mid Sept, heading up your way for a week in Northumberland first then on to Quebec for a week (spending my wedding anniversary on the plane!)
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I haven’t been up to the Roman Wall in the longest time! I was just looking at some English Heritage leaflets today. September could be beautiful.
I’m in Tavira from Monday till 12th Sept and then in Nottingham on 26th. Why do I always want to be somewhere else? 🙂 🙂
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Any Northumberland tips gratefully received – we’re staying near Lindesfarne from 20–27 Sept. Have a great time in Portugal!
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I’ll have a mooch and get back to you 🙂
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