Where else but the Moulin Rouge?
Whenever I visit a new city I like to take a guided walk with a local. You might remember that in Barcelona I accompanied Aleksandra on an eye-opening tour of the old side. Paris was no exception.
A couple of my blogging friends are Paris experts and Lucy at On the Luce has a great post on which I spotted Discover Walks. I was tempted by several of the choices, and so it was that, last Monday, I met Olivier. A personable and very charming 20 year old, I knew at the outset that I was going to enjoy my walk. And it was free, apart from a tip!
We met outside Blanche Metro station, at Place Pigalle, looking directly at that Paris icon, the Moulin Rouge. There was quite a big group of us. Why don’t you tag along? I promise not to give away the best stories. You’ll have to join Olivier for those. I should warn you that this area is very steep, but we’ll take it slowly and pause to admire the views.
With all of Paris at our feet!
We started off up Rue Lepic- a street full of shops and locals. It was tempting to linger over some of the pastries on display, but I hoped there would be time for them later. For now, I wanted to absorb all that Montmartre has to offer. Originally a village, outside of the city walls, the name Montmartre derives from martyrs who once were tortured and died on this hill. Despite being incorporated into the city of Paris in 1860, Montmartre retains a strong identity and almost a village feeling. It’s a community to which you would love to belong.
Olivier carried with him a satchel full of goodies and it wasn’t long before he was delving in. Outside Bateau-Lavoir, on tiny Place Emile-Goudeau, he produced a copy of a painting. In this former piano factory, in 1907, Picasso painted his Cubist ‘Les Demoiselles d’Avignon’; a portrayal of 5 naked prostitutes, outrageous for its time. No longer is there evidence of the squalid conditions he and his compatriots lived in, as the building has since burned down. A replica currently marks the spot.
The facade of Le Bateau-Lavoir (laundry boat)
Artists and their haunts abound in Montmartre. Dalida was unlucky in love. After the suicides of three of her lovers she finally committed suicide herself. A beautiful home isn’t everything, is it?
Around the corner another copy of a painting emerged from Olivier’s satchel. Enthralled I looked at the windmills Van Gogh had painted, in their surrounding fields. His countryside setting was nothing like that before me. Once Montmartre had more than 30 windmills, used for grinding wheat and pressing grapes. Now just two remain. At the junction of rues Lepic and Tholoze, Moulin de la Galette is one of them. A Michelin starred restaurant, it’s definitely a sign of the times.
Later, in the Musee d’Orsay, I was to stare wide-eyed at Renoir’s immortalisation of the windmill in ‘Le Bal du Moulin de la Galette’, so beautiful in closeup. I can only manage a photograph.
A seat on the terrace should give you the nicest views
Our next introduction was to a gentleman by the name of Marcel Aymé. Have you heard of ‘The Man who walked through walls’? No, neither had I, but there he was, protruding from the wall! I gather that he haunts Rue Norvins by night- a good reason not to loiter.
Olivier with Dutilleul, the ‘hero’ of the book
A look at the Montmartre vineyard was to follow, but with strict instructions not to buy the product. Pollution levels in Paris are apparently not conducive to producing fine wine.
The Montmartre vineyard- it’s green enough, isn’t it?
And down the hill, ‘Au Lapin Agile’- the nimble rabbit- a cabaret spot
It’s a green and leafy space where you can hear the birds sing. It’s not until you start to approach the monumental church that things begin to get busy. I could happily wander these quiet back streets but inevitably you are drawn to Place du Tertre, where all of life spills over.
Not for us the crush of the main square. We pass through peaceful gardens and emerge behind Sacre Coeur, where Olivier shares a final few tips and bids us ‘adieu’. A job well done! Merci!
Sacre Coeur from the gardens at the rear
You know where I’m going next, don’t you? But first let’s have a quick peek at Place du Tertre.
Too many people for me! I’m heading right for the top. I figure with all that practise up four flights of stairs to our apartment, 300 steps will be a piece of cake?
The church doorway, but I wasn’t allowed to take photos inside
Are you worn out now? You didn’t have to climb all those steps with me! My legs are a bit jelly, too. I hope you enjoyed my Paris walk. Back down is simple. Just meander! Many thanks to Olivier for his delightful assistance.
I turned my back for 5 minutes this week and you walkers took off at a pace! Please make some time to read these. There are some superb walks here. Put your feet up and enjoy! (and then start walking) Click on my Monday walks logo to find out more.
Drake? Well, he was at a quarry :
And Jude was in her beloved Cornwall :
Madhu made me sad with her wistful haveli photos :
And Pauline introduced me to a pretty section of Canberra :
While Amy was out chasing beautiful butterflies :
The definitive London walk- you won’t want to miss it! :
A glorious Summer’s day in London
And by way of complete contrast, Sue has us dangling in wide open spaces :
Grassi Lakes- the Canmore jewels
Not quite so reckless but another lover of the great outdoors, join Suzan on a bear adventure :
Close encounters of the Bear kind
Right back to London, Laura shows us a side that tourists seldom see :
I thought I was eating choux pastry with Jude. It must have been those steps!
And finally my lovely Viveka in Vienna. You will never have taken a finer tour! :
Happy walking all! See you next week.
restlessjo 
It is pretty special that Montmartre still retains vestiges of its former self from the windmills to the artist’s houses to Sacré Coeur.
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I think so too, AG 🙂
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What a pleasant walk, Jo. I agree, having a local tour is a wise thing to do and can make a difference for the trip. Great photos, the church doorway is fabulous! We did get to tour Montmartre when we were in Paris. I really enjoyed this virtual tour. 🙂
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There was a choice of 5 Paris tours with this company, Amy, and I would have liked to do another but our days were pretty full! I loved it 🙂
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Amazing walk – wonderful captures – I can see you walked past the place in Montmartre where I stay overnight when I’m in Paris – some good freinds a couple who insist I use their guest room – again wonderful captures, Jo… 🙂
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Oh, lucky you, Drake! 🙂 I think Montmartre has always been in my heart. Thank you!
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Another great and entertaining walk, Jo. You really do get around. Olivier sounds like the perfect guide. The Dutilleul is quite startling, isn’t it? All that climbing has done me the world of good, and according to my fitbit, I already did 11,000 steps today. 🙂
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That sounds like a LOT of steps, Ad! I have no idea how many I do in a day. Probably as well not to know 🙂
Paris was fabulous, and Olivier reminded me a little of my James.
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I LOVE Paris and have walked much of it on the occasions I have visited, but to traverse it with someone who can bring it’s history and soul to life – now THAT’s special. Great post.
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Thanks so much, Aisha. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience and it’s wonderful to be able to share it. 🙂
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I love this area once you leave the tacky street at the bottom! I’ve got the photo of the sculpture stepping out of the wall as well!
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Yes, once away from the Moulin Rouge it’s beautiful, Gilly. I did find the Place du Tetre a bit tacky too but it’s such a pretty spot, you can’t blame people. Victim of its own success! The whole world must be honeymooning in Paris 🙂 Every time I blinked there was a Japanese pair of newlyweds in a clinch 🙂 🙂
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Thanks for being my incomparable tour guide to a city I’ll probably never visit. You sell the idea of a tour guide: I’ve always preferred to bumble around, but your experience, coupled with my superb 5W “guides” in Vienna and Budapes, is well on the way to changing my mind. Do you take notes, or are you blessed with a memory. It’s a great shot of Olivier (dressed with Parisian nonchalance and finesse) and the man who walks through walls. My favourite shots otherwise? The passage artwork of the woman with the tiny-splotches dress: the roofscape as you climbed the tower: the Moulin Rouge (which looked disappointingly like the Moulin Pink!) Were you feeling like a nimble rabbit at the end of the walk?
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Thanks, Meg 🙂 You always make me smile. I do cheat a little because my memory isn’t all that great. I read the guide books to death before I go and every evening (or early morning) write up my travel diary. Olivier was very engaging but I couldn’t remember much detail. I checked a few things (like Marcel Ayme) on Google when I was writing the post.
He reminded me a little of my son. Part of his job contract is to wear the pink waistcoat, which he professed to hate 🙂 I have posted this on his Facebook page as I think it’s good promotion material for the company. I sincerely hope he approves.
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I adore Paris, I worked there on and off for over 2 years. And Big Man and I had a wonderful 5 days there when we first met – time to get back there soon!
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Oh, lucky, Tanya! The chance to see it properly! 🙂 We had to fit so much in, but you know what I’m like. Gave it my best shot 🙂
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What a lovely and breathtaking wander through Montmartre this morning.. much more interesting than walking the dog around my neighborhood, lol.. I’ve got to get back to France, this is one location I didn’t get to!
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Paris is stunning, Smidge! Welcome to my walks 🙂
We packed as much as was physically possible into our Silver Wedding trip.
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Oh Jo, what a wonderful walk. You negotiated all those steps for us AND took superb photos too. The guided walk is a great idea, though I have a tendency of dawdling behind taking too many photos so miss the interesting tid-bits. Not this time though 😉 I ALMOST went on one in Lisbon (it rained) and London (the tube strike meant I was too late). A great way to be introduced to an area by someone who knows it well. Many, many thanks ❤
I'm back in Scotland this week for you: http://wp.me/pL5Ms-1Fa
Jude xx
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I had so much Paris in my head I couldn’t think what walk to do this week, Jude! Then Michael said ‘Montmartre! It was a Monday walk’. So obvious really 🙂 They can be relied upon for logic, can’t they?
I haven’t done the Lisbon one or Seville but both are on the list. Porto was my first, 2 years ago (next month!) and that was fantastic. Thanks so much for your enthusiasm, and participation 🙂
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Oh, lovely walk, Jo! Brought back a ton of memories….
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I love it when a post hits the spot, Sue 🙂 You keeping well? I will make time to come over in the next day or so.
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Hi Jo, yes, I’m fine….look forward to your visit, I have some new Beauty in Decay and a few other things on the blog
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Fabulous walk! And great photos. Thanks for the link to Discover Walks.
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Thanks, Angeline 🙂 There are 5 tours to choose from if you’re ever lucky enough to be there.
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What an enchanting walk Jo. Sounds like Olivier was a delightful host!
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He was a good kid, Lynn. Full of exuberance and dreams. I hope he makes them come true 🙂
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Thank you for taking me through the streets of Montmatre – I enjoyed the walk Jo. Oliver sounds like a gem – he certainly introduced you to lovely spots.
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He reminded me a lot of my son, though I’m not sure if James would be so outgoing. Probably- if his mum wasn’t around 🙂 It’s a beautiful place, Colline, and a rather special area of Paris.
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I enjoyed the many walks I took there during my stay.
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…Ah–Montmarte was one of my favorite areas of Paris, :-)…
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It has that…’je ne sais quoi’? 🙂
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…Indeed, :-)…
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Those walking tours are great, you get to see so much more! I was around some of those same places 3 years ago when my daughter lived in Paris! We had our portraits painted in Montmartre by some art students. Great photos too Joanne.
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It was such a special place for the Silver Wedding, Sami, and Montmartre the perfect place for a ‘private’ tour 🙂
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Ende der 80ger war ich ein zweites Mal in Paris und ich werde im nächsten Jahr wieder hin fahren. Es ist eine wunderbare Weltstadt!
G. l. G. Jochen
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Ja! Danke schone 🙂
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Fantastic post Jo, brought back a lot of great memories. My brother-in-law used to have an apartment right in the heart of Montmartre – just loved memory lane. Seems like you guys had a great time with Oliver as guide.
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Oh, lucky him, Mary! 🙂 Thank you so much!
Yes, he was an excellent guide.
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Jo what a fabulous walk. I know we have had some marvelous guides in our travels.it sounds like Olivier was very prepared with his satchel of goodies. Good for you to hit the stairs to get those incredible views for us! Now I have to ask why was it free? An extraordinarily good price. 🙂
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I’ve done these in a number of cities, Sue. Mostly the guides are students and they supplement their income with the tips. (this company was a little cheeky and stated in their brochure that their average tip was 13 euros but you could leave whatever you liked). In Barcelona a paid walking tour was almost 3 times the tip we left so it’s a good deal. And Olivier was a lot of fun. Reminded me of my James. 🙂
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So now I must ask how you find these students as I have not heard of this. Sounds brilliant!
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Follow my link to Discover Walks. There is a choice of 5 Paris walks. The link to Aleksandra takes you to my walking tour of Barcelona and within that is a link to one in Porto. Initially I think I Googled free walking tours, but it’s a winning formula. 🙂
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Great thanks so much!
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There’s a Lisbon one too, which I mean to do if I ever get back there 🙂
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I was particularly thinking about Rome in light of the upcoming trip.
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I should think that would work perfectly, Sue. Let me know how you get on. 🙂
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Thanks Jo. Will do some research this week. Thanks for your links.
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Breathtaking views and photos, Jo. My legs are rubber from that steep climb. Ha. You have just given me a preview of what I hope to see, soon. Did you arrange your walk ahead of your trip or while there? We’ll be staying in the Marais.
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I booked online but there wasn’t any need to, Lynne. Follow my link to Discover Walks. There are 5 to choose from and the one in the Marais has been recommended to me as well. 🙂 You will LOVE Paris!
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