Jo’s Monday walk : Discovering Montmartre

Where else but the Moulin Rouge?

Where else but the Moulin Rouge?

Whenever I visit a new city I like to take a guided walk with a local.  You might remember that in Barcelona I accompanied Aleksandra on an eye-opening tour of the old side.  Paris was no exception.

A couple of my blogging friends are Paris experts and Lucy at On the Luce has a great post on which I spotted Discover Walks.  I was tempted by several of the choices, and so it was that, last Monday, I met Olivier.  A personable and very charming 20 year old, I knew at the outset that I was going to enjoy my walk.  And it was free, apart from a tip!

We met outside Blanche Metro station, at Place Pigalle, looking directly at that Paris icon, the Moulin Rouge.  There was quite a big group of us.  Why don’t you tag along?  I promise not to give away the best stories.  You’ll have to join Olivier for those.  I should warn you that this area is very steep, but we’ll take it slowly and pause to admire the views.

With all of Paris at your feet!

With all of Paris at our feet!

We started off up Rue Lepic- a street full of shops and locals.  It was tempting to linger over some of the pastries on display, but I hoped there would be time for them later.  For now, I wanted to absorb all that Montmartre has to offer.  Originally a village, outside of the city walls, the name Montmartre derives from martyrs who once were tortured and died on this hill.  Despite being incorporated into the city of Paris in 1860, Montmartre retains a strong identity and almost a village feeling.  It’s a community to which you would love to belong.

Olivier carried with him a satchel full of goodies and it wasn’t long before he was delving in. Outside Bateau-Lavoir, on tiny Place Emile-Goudeau, he produced a copy of a painting.  In this former piano factory, in 1907, Picasso painted his Cubist ‘Les Demoiselles d’Avignon’; a portrayal of 5 naked prostitutes, outrageous for its time.  No longer is there evidence of the squalid conditions he and his compatriots lived in, as the building has since burned down.  A replica currently marks the spot.

The facade of Le Bateau-Lavoir (laundry boat)

The facade of Le Bateau-Lavoir (laundry boat)

In Rue d’Orchampt, the tragic story of beautiful Dalida
And the ill-fated building where she met her end
A sample of modern artwork in the nearby passage

Artists and their haunts abound in Montmartre.  Dalida was unlucky in love.  After the suicides of three of her lovers she finally committed suicide herself.  A beautiful home isn’t everything, is it?

Around the corner another copy of a painting emerged from Olivier’s satchel.  Enthralled I looked at the windmills Van Gogh had painted, in their surrounding fields.  His countryside setting was nothing like that before me.  Once Montmartre had more than 30 windmills, used for grinding wheat and pressing grapes.  Now just two remain.  At the junction of rues Lepic and Tholoze, Moulin de la Galette is one of them.  A Michelin starred restaurant, it’s definitely a sign of the times.

Later, in the Musee d’Orsay, I was to stare wide-eyed at Renoir’s immortalisation of the windmill in ‘Le Bal du Moulin de la Galette’, so beautiful in closeup.  I can only manage a photograph.

A seat on the terrace should give you the nicest views

A seat on the terrace should give you the nicest views

Our next introduction was to a gentleman by the name of Marcel Aymé.  Have you heard of ‘The Man who walked through walls’?  No, neither had I, but there he was, protruding from the wall!  I gather that he haunts Rue Norvins by night- a good reason not to loiter.

Olivier with Dutilleul, the 'hero' of the book

Olivier with Dutilleul, the ‘hero’ of the book

A look at the Montmartre vineyard was to follow, but with strict instructions not to buy the product.  Pollution levels in Paris are apparently not conducive to producing fine wine.

The Montmartre vineyard

The Montmartre vineyard- it’s green enough, isn’t it?

And down the hill, Lapin Agile

And down the hill,  ‘Au Lapin Agile’- the nimble rabbit- a cabaret spot

It’s a green and leafy space where you can hear the birds sing.  It’s not until you start to approach the monumental church that things begin to get busy.  I could happily wander these quiet back streets but inevitably you are drawn to Place du Tertre, where all of life spills over.

Approaching Sacre Coeur from the rear
A quiet drink on the way?
Or a visit to the Musee de Montmartre?
Our group progress inexorably upwards

Not for us the crush of the main square.  We pass through peaceful gardens and emerge behind Sacre Coeur, where Olivier shares a final few tips and bids us ‘adieu’.  A job well done!  Merci!

Gazing on the Sacre Couer

Sacre Coeur from the gardens at the rear

You know where I’m going next, don’t you?  But first let’s have a quick peek at Place du Tertre.

Such a pretty square
And full of beautiful art work
Restaurants
Artists
And pretty pictures

Too many people for me!  I’m heading right for the top.  I figure with all that practise up four flights of stairs to our apartment, 300 steps will be a piece of cake?

 

The church first, but I wasn't allowed to take photos

The church doorway, but I wasn’t allowed to take photos inside

Up close and personal with a gargoyle first
Maybe, don’t look down!
Out is good!
There’s that Eiffel Tower again!
A bit of a rest stop
With beautiful views!
Still a long way down
I’ll focus on a close up
I never did make it to La Defense!
But I was on good terms with the gargoyles!

Are you worn out now?  You didn’t have to climb all those steps with me!  My legs are a bit jelly, too.  I hope you enjoyed my Paris walk.  Back down is simple.  Just meander!  Many thanks to Olivier for his delightful assistance.

walking logo

I turned my back for 5 minutes this week and you walkers took off at a pace!  Please make some time to read these.  There are some superb walks here.  Put your feet up and enjoy! (and then start walking)  Click on my Monday walks logo to find out more.

Drake?  Well, he was at a quarry  :

Secluded works of art

And Jude was in her beloved Cornwall  :

Capturing Cornwall

Madhu made me sad with her wistful haveli photos  :

Lucknow- a walk in the Chowk

And Pauline introduced me to a pretty section of Canberra  :

Canberra Lakeside walk

While Amy was out chasing beautiful butterflies  :

Trail walking

The definitive London walk- you won’t want to miss it!  :

A glorious Summer’s day in London

And by way of complete contrast, Sue has us dangling in wide open spaces  :

Grassi Lakes- the Canmore jewels

Not quite so reckless but another lover of the great outdoors, join Suzan on a bear adventure  :

Close encounters of the Bear kind

Right back to London, Laura shows us a side that tourists seldom see  :

Walkabout 3- the Branch Line

I thought I was eating choux pastry with Jude.  It must have been those steps!

New Abbey Buildings

And finally my lovely Viveka in Vienna.  You will never have taken a finer tour!  :

Felt like a local

Happy walking all!  See you next week.

162 comments

  3. What a fun walk, Jo. I love Paris in general, and who cannot love Montmartre and Sacre Coeur? I love the square with the artists; it’s iconic Montmartre. And the windmills and Moulin Rouge. It’s all amazing and it sounds like Olivier did a fabulous job. Great that he pulled out the appropriate paintings! I’m sure your legs were jelly after all this! 🙂

    Like

    Reply

      1. Yes, a little too many rum drinks all around, Jo! My legs feel like they’re failing too, after all our walks around Puerto Rico. It was great. Hot and humid but lovely! I ate too much Mofongo!! 🙂

        Like

  4. This brings back lots of happy memories thanks for a wonderful post Jo! I bought a couple of street prints from a similar stall in Montmartre on my honeymoon a very long time ago and I still have both prints framed and hanging. Merci beaucoup Rosemary 🙂

    Like

    Reply

  7. It’s a good few years since I was fit enough to climb to the top of Sacré Coeur, but every time I go to Paris (I had lots of tutorials and exams there when I was studying) I naturally gravitate to Montmartre. I wrote a haiga about the man who walks through walls, called He Forgot to Stop! It was published in the French Literary Review, but I can’t find the original on the old computer.
    Thanks for the memories.

    Like

    Reply

    1. You’re very welcome, Viv 🙂 Have you tried Googling it (your poem)? You just might be lucky. I’d love to read it, and will possibly hunt down Marcel Ayme’s book too 🙂

      Like

      Reply

    1. I’m pretty sure there won’t be a next time, Lucy, which is why we had to make this one special. And it was! 🙂 I would have liked to do the Left Bank one too. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. The only bit I didn’t manage that I really fancied was the Plante walk, but we did SO much else. 🙂

      Like

      Reply

  10. Thank you Jo, I loved this walk and the views are amazing. We walked around some of the side streets of Montmartre, less busy and so enjoyable, the gardens at the back of the sacre couer provided us with a lovely respite from all the tourists on the steps leading to sacre couer.

    Like

    Reply

    1. We got lost going back down 🙂 Or rather, didn’t end up where we wanted to. I’d planned a boat trip on Canal St. Martin but we had to change plans. It was a good change though 🙂

      Like

      Reply
  12. Pingback: Jo’s Monday Walk: Macabre Fresco | Lost in Translation

  13. Jo, I think you walked the same streets I walked 5 years ago, fantastic to it again with you. The Montmartre is my favorite area of Paris, my first visit Paris … and was supposed to be in love and all that; we stayed at a little hotel just by the metro stop Abbesses.
    Thank for bringing me back to memory lane *smile
    Wonderful that you used the gallery set up to show more of your brilliant images. Sacre Coeur is my favorite place in Paris, the view is spectacular. My favorite image is the uphill street image, but I can feel the afford going into that. ~laughing
    But I miss one shot, the famous step from Rue Gabrielle up to Sacre Coeur, didn’t Olivier make you walk them????? I have only walked them down. *smile and taken the funiculaire de Montmartre up.
    A wonderful post with stunning images – thanks for bringing me back to the part of Paris I like so much in a city that I don’t agree with at all. *smile

    Like

    Reply

    1. We walked DOWN those steps too, Vivi 🙂 There were a lot of people about and I wasn’t happy with the shot I took. Olivier stuck to the quieter parts, which was great. Afterwards I loitered in Place du Tetre while Mick went looking for a cashpoint 🙂 He had to go all the way back to the bottom to find one that worked! Just one of the reasons why he didn’t climb the tower in Sacre Coeur with me 🙂 It was worth the effort!

      Like

      Reply

      1. Jo, you would get me up on any heights and not up any stair neither. Good on Mick for staying on the ground with both feet. I have been up in the Eiffel tower, but not on the top level.
        I know there is always people in those stairs, but I been luck, I got shoots when they have been empty. He could have taken the train back up again. Poor man!!!.
        It’s purely some climbing in that part of Paris, but one city that is even worst … Istanbul, only uphill. *smile Worse than San Francisco.

        Like

      1. Jo, Istanbul is far more interesting than San Fran. I think you should put Istanbul on your bucket list – and very high up. Far more interesting than Barcelona and Paris too. Friday hugs …. *smile

        Like

    1. I thought that too, Robin! (about Biba 🙂 ) The going back too, but I’m sure we never will. I tried my hardest to fit everything in and I didn’t fall far short.
      Thank you! I’m a big fan of these tours. If you’re ever there, there are 5 to choose from.

      Like

      Reply
  16. Pingback: Small steps, large atmosphere | Le Drake Noir

  18. Wonderful. I bought a painting for my sister there in 1974! I wonder if she still has it, I’ll ask her now that I think about it. It was still wet and I had to let it dry in my hotel room before putting it in my luggage bag

    Like

    Reply

  20. That brought back wonderful memories of wandering the area around this time last year! “The man who walked through walls” is a good story. I meant to write a review of this book of short stories but never got round to it! Just like I haven’t got round to writing up any of my walks!

    Like

    Reply

Leave a comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.