A tale or two : Crete

The beach at Georgiopoulos

The beach at Georgiopoulos

So here it is- the final instalment!  I have so enjoyed sharing these memories with you, but I’m sure I’ve been wearing my rose tinted spectacles.

I remember vividly going into work on returning from Crete.  “How was it?  Did you see the rats?  We daren’t tell you before you went, in case it spoiled your holiday.”  I didn’t (thankfully), but was treated to lurid tales of them being rampant in Rethymnon harbour, and running over somebody’s foot!  I didn’t see a one, and neither did my normally very observant partner. (I hope!)

Rethymnon harbour and lighthouse

Rethymnon harbour and lighthouse

In spite of loving the Greek Islands, it had taken us a while to return.  You see, I’m fickle and the love affair with Italy had begun. Our small person loved pasta and Del Piero (a footballer with Juventus), and those were the days when he delighted in cheap copies of his hero’s shirt- now long gone!  But that’s a tale for another series.  Well, maybe.

Still, I hadn’t gotten Greece entirely out of my system (to this day!) and the Summer of 2000 saw us back there.  I had thought long and hard about our base, and was more than happy with Rethymnon.  The old town was almost entirely built by the Venetians, as was the Fortezza, one of the best preserved castles on Crete.  There was so much character, and the atmosphere in the harbour was wonderful, especially by night.

My favourite harbourside cafe

My favourite harbourside cafe

Cafe Soldini, or Spiro’s place as we tended to know it, was a favoured spot.  The waiters were attentive but joked among themselves, constantly having fun, even in the considerable heat.  Who knows if it’s there still!

With just two weeks, I had a full itinerary.  Holidays with me are never purely restful.  So, off we went, bus hopping to Chania, a lovely mix of Venetian and Ottoman influences.  Well, yes, touristy, but so pretty, that you could see why.  The discovery that you could still buy cheap footie shirts in Chania made the place barely just tolerable by James’ standards.  Oh, and the mega chocolate icecream sundaes in the harbourside cafes!

Did you ever see a more elegant creature?

Did you ever see a more elegant creature?

The lovely harbour at Chania

The lovely harbour at Chania

A coach trip next, to view some of the superb Cretan landscape.  It being the largest of the Greek Islands, I knew I could only skim the surface.  Perhaps climb the heights is a better description because Crete has no shortage of mountains.  Heading west to Vryses (meaning fountains) it was up and over the green plateau, skirting the Imbros Gorge.  Wildflowers speckled the green carpet, while overhead hawks and eagles patrolled the skies.

Dropping slowly down to the coast, Frangokastello awaited.  A ruined castle, solid and square in yellow stone, sat almost upon the beach.  Beyond lay the pearliest of blues, shallow water, and I had my first ever paddle in the Libyan Sea.  Never have I been so reluctant to return to a coach, but it was on to nearby Sfakia and the “restored” castle in miniature.

Refreshments at Sfakia

Refreshments at Sfakia

When we alighted at Plakias I wanted to do a Shirley Valentine.  Michael had an urgent mission to find batteries for the camera, so I daydreamed a while.

Plakias looks across a lovely bay

Plakias looks across a lovely bay

The way home took us through the Clapping Gorge, named for the sound of the wind echoing through it.  Not many people left the coach to descend the endless steps to the chapel and springs, but… well, you know I just had to.  And the following day when the boys opted to laze by the pool, I signed up to join a walking tour.

A morning stroll, I described it to Michael.  Wrong!  It turned out to be a 2 hour hike, lunch in a taverna, then back again, via a monastery.  I had dressed in trousers, determined not to be inappropriately dressed again, and I was soon melting.  Shade, some water and a Greek coffee were much appreciated, served by smiling nuns, whose home was still being restored.  I had little money with me, but bought a small paperweight to contribute to the building fund.

The path continued beneath beautiful cliffs, alight with yellow gorse.  I didn’t have a mobile phone, so couldn’t let Michael know that my stroll was in fact a day out!  Despite a mild sense of guilt I was enjoying myself enormously.  Our guide, Raoul, was highly informative, and the wine flowed when we stopped for lunch.  Raoul looked every inch the proud Cretan, but I’d got that wrong too.  When he couldn’t remember the Greek word for cucumber, it transpired that he was in fact a German ex-pat.

Eventually I arrived back at the pool, more than happy to flop into the water.  Michael got his own back because that evening we were Greek dancing.

Oh, my aching feet!

Oh, my aching feet!

The one thing we absolutely had to do on our trip to Crete was to visit the palace of Knossos, archaelogical site of the Minoan civilisation.  The legend of the Minotaur and the fact that the Minoans were decimated by the volcanic eruption of Santorini in 1420 I found fascinating.  There are many details in my link to Wikipedia.

Reconstructed palace remains at Knossos

Reconstructed palace remains at Knossos

The frescoes

The frescoes

Such lovely colours

Such lovely colours

The other “must” was to walk the Samaria Gorge.  James was old enough to quite enjoy the challenge, and it felt quite an exciting thing to do.  An early start took us across the island to Sfakia on the south coast to embark.

Boarding for the Samaria Gorge

Boarding for the Samaria Gorge

The approach to the gorge

The approach to the gorge

Landing!

Landing!

Through the Gorge

Through the mighty Gorge

The River Tara running along the bottom of the Gorge makes it a magical place.  Frequently you hop across the river on wooden log bridges, or strategically placed stones. Drinking lots of water is a must.  Despite the people passing through, nature is fully in control in this gorge.

Can't go to Greece without meeting a goat or two

Can’t go to Greece without meeting a goat or two

Or a reminder of the hard battles fought here

Or a reminder of the hard battles fought here

I didn’t realise when I started this post how long it would be.  I did say it was a big island, and I did my best to cover some ground.  I haven’t yet told you about lovely Georgiopoulos, the lead photo right back where we began.  Maybe I don’t need to.  I hope that it’s unspoilt and beautiful still.

We had a wonderful holiday, with charming people.  I hope I have not bored you with my rambles.  I’ll say goodbye to Greece properly with one last sunset.

Rethymnon beach at sundown.

Rethymnon beach at sundown.

Maybe, just one more! Goodbye Greece.

Maybe, just one more! Goodbye Greece.

97 comments

  2. These are so lovely Jo .. God your legs are long…. 😀 we won’t need that ladder rope after all ;). I am crazy about goats… maybe I should go to Crete too 🙂

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    1. Michael was always a legs man. Gotta trap ’em somehow, Paula! 🙂
      Goats?? Well, you’ll find plenty. They eat everything, including handbags! Maybe you should go and feed them. 🙂

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  3. I enjoyed your pics of Crete. We were there in 1999, but only on a day trip off the cruise ship. We weren’t there long enough to see any rats, but did visit Knossos. It look as though you have high heels on to do the Greek dancing. No wonder your feet were aching. 🙂

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    1. The Gorge was fabulous, Lorna, but hot! There are quite a few gorges through the centre of Crete but that’s the famous one. Don’t know how accessible the others are. 🙂

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  5. It was great to read your account of Crete, Jo, especially Rethymno, where I definitely did NOT see any rats when I was there this past September. Also, the town and harbor of Chania were beautiful, as was Plakias. I was looking for the cemetery that I just posted pictures of in my post. I missed Knossos though; I simply did not give myself enough time in Crete. And that was sad, because it was my favorite place in Greece!! It looks like you had a lovely time! 🙂

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    1. Too much world, Cath, even for you! The cemetery one is after the goat, near the end. I’m pretty sure it’s the same spot but from a different angle.

      Got your itinerary sorted yet for Morocco/Portugal etc? I still haven’t booked. It’s an urgent “to do”! Dad forgot to renew his passport for next week’s trip to Poland so running to Passport Office tomorrow. 🙂

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      1. Oh, now I see the cemetery. It must be the same one. It was sitting on a hill on the way to Plakias, right?

        I haven’t done a single thing to plan my trip yet, but I do think I’ve decided to do only Spain and Portugal, not Morocco. I’ll save Morocco for another time, when I’ve had time to miss the Middle East. Right now, I’m all about Europe!!

        Good luck getting your trip planned and getting your dad’s passport!! Better hurry! When are you going to Morocco?

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      2. Hi again! Yes, same cemetery. Booked flights to Faro last night : 12th-22nd May and 7th-18th July. The first are cheapest available after I get back from Poland on 9th May, and in July to wrap around Mick’s birthday on 12th. Morocco not scheduled and probably not this year?? 🙂

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  6. Once again, Jo your words and pictures reveal a love affair with these islands. Some day we will go and I must bookmark these posts to use as a guide.How great to get away for the day to hike and discover…even if it was unintentional. Your tan and long legs dancing along side Michael is the best holiday picture of all. Great memories.

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    1. Thanks, Lynne. You say the nicest things. 🙂
      I forgot to mention that that trip was so good that Michael went on the walk the following week while I stayed poolside with James and his friends. Fair’s fair! 🙂

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  7. Wow, beautiful and funny gallery – stunning island, with loads of great charters on 4 legs and loads of refreshments. If you are the girl in the short white dress …. You sure have some legs to show off.
    Never heard that there should be rats in Crete – and I have many friends that have been there. I’m sure there is rats everywhere where there is water, both 2 and 4 legged. ‘
    Reading you post is just like I was there with you – excellent … and what a holiday you had with all those islands. Greece is a fantastic holiday destionation.

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    1. Many thanks for the compliment, hon. I mostly keep them covered up these days but they’re still long! 🙂
      Yes, it is a lovely island, with so many parts to it. Thank you for being such an excellent travelling companion. 🙂

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      1. My pleasure …. but you should show your legs … You don’t need to wear shorts, but .. they shouldn’t be hidden from world.
        Thanks for bringing me along.

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    1. D’you know, I had to look back, Gem. Talk about powers of observation! They do get in everywhere and eat everything so I suppose the owner must have been protecting his interests. I remember having my shoulder bag well chewed once when I was sitting on a mountain top in Austria. Naughty goat! 🙂

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      1. I try to be more observant than I normally am when it comes to blogs. I feel people take a lot of time to compile them. It’s the least I can do. I don’t always ‘like’ if I don’t like, but the pictures fascinate me. I hope that others are being as honest with me. It’s what I think makes me better. I ‘like’ your stuff ;-).

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    1. We did that! I don’t often do the touristy things (Michael doesn’t like parting with money for that kind of thing) but it was more or less the price you had to pay to take a photograph, and the horse was cute! 🙂

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  10. Jo, What a lovely post. We haven’t made it to Crete yet, but you’ve certainly provided the inspiration to go back. I’m particularly interested in the palace of Knossos and those gorgeous frescos. Thanks for sparking my interest. ~Terri

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    1. Thanks, Terri! Looking at Wikipedia I think there has been considerably more work done there since our trip. Combined with the museum in Heraklion (didn’t get to- wasn’t allowed by the lads!) you should have plenty to see. It is a lovely island with huge variety if you get away from the touristy bits. 🙂

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      1. It’s Gemma, but you’re welcome to call me either – or Missus Tribble! I’m known as all three in the blogging world so won’t be confused if I get referred to by an alias 🙂

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      1. Eek I’m not sure if I can remember the name of the hotel we stayed in last time, but it was in Rethymnon. this time we are in the Aquila Porto Rethymnon, looks very nice in the brochure

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      2. Ha! I just meant resort, Simon. I don’t pay much attention to hotel names myself. I would like to stay at the other end if I went back, I think, but I liked Rethymnon.

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  15. Great post Jo. Love the horse photo, elegant indeed. The Samaria Gorge reminded me very much of the Wadi’s in Oman, always great places to explore. Congrats on an excellent series.

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  16. such a fabulous trip jo! we were there in 1979, with three young boys (7, 3 and 1) in a campervan so my experiences were quite different … we bought a carved wooden spoon from an old man near the Rethymnon harbour, we sniffed down the bakery in Georgiopoulis and swooned over the gum trees, we ate octopus in Matala and had a load of adventures!

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  17. Oh, I would have enjoyed it just as much as you did Jo. Thanks for sharing these lovely memories and photo’s once more. That horse is just too adorable! I can see you had lots of fun. 🙂 *hugs*

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      1. You are very welcome hon. It was great going on this trip with you. Have a great week as well hon. 🙂 *hugs*

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  18. Lovely post, and it brought back happy memories of our visit to Crete last September. I really liked Chania and found Knossos very interesting. We had intended doing the Samaria Gorge walk, but didn’t in the end – perhaps another time when it’s not so hot!

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  20. Glad you saw Knossos Jo – so many people seem to return home from Crete without having been there!
    Greek dancing – a Greek holiday is incomplete without making a fool of yourself on the dance floor!

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