stepping stones

Jo’s Monday walk : Lealholm to Glaisdale

Did you miss the Duck Race?

Did you miss the Duck Race?

I try for variety in my walks but this week it took a great effort of will not to drag you back to the seaside!  As we’re in that balmy British time of year (no, I didn’t say barmy, but I could well have done) when the villages all have their shows, I thought we should head for Yorkshire.  As luck would have it, we do seem to be having a Summertime this year, so let’s make the most of it. Which brings me to Lealholm and the Duck Race.

Now I feel a bit of a fraud, because I’ve never actually witnessed the Duck Race.  To be honest, I prefer the village peaceful, as it is in the above shot, taken the week before.  Timing’s the thing, isn’t it?  On the church notice board, I saw that I had also missed some ‘Open’ gardens at Glaisdale.   I guess I need a year planner.  Never mind- I can compensate with Poet’s Cottage, the garden centre at Lealholm.  Shall we start there?

How about this for a peony?

How about this for a peony?

Central to the village and on the banks of the River Esk, many people come to Lealholm purely to visit this beautifully laid out shrubbery and plant centre.  Named for John Castillo, a poet and lay preacher, the site was previously home to a paper mill.  You may have arrived by train, but more likely by car, and it’s just a short downhill stroll from the parking to Poet’s Cottage.

As usual, click on any photo to open the galleries

Best of all, truly luscious clematis

Best of all, truly luscious clematis

The gardeners among you satisfied, it’s time to visit Lealholm’s other main attraction- the stepping stones.  Young and old seem to delight in these, and on a sunny day much hand holding and teetering goes on.  It’s a social occasion for all the family and blankets are spread, ready to lounge with a picnic.

I was quite surprised to learn from Wikipedia that a settlement at Lealholm can be traced all the way back to the Domesday Book of 1086.  It has always been a traditional farming community, prosperity developing because it provided a convenient crossing place on the River Esk.

The village sits at the bottom of a glacial U-shaped valley, Crunkly Ghyll.  A fording point existed beside the Board Inn, a coaching inn which dates back to 18th century.  Today children wade and ducks paddle in the shadow of the 17th century arched bridge.  The name Lealholm appears to derive from the Old English for a place of willow trees.  No small part of its charm are the sheep, ambling amicably on the village green.

View from the top of the village

View from the top of the village, over Crunkly Ghyll

Lealholm lies on the Esk Valley Railway Line, which runs from Middlesbrough to Whitby, a distance of 35 miles.  With a little careful planning you can enjoy a day out on the railway, and even fit in a walk between stations.

From beside the bridge, a footpath follows the course of the River Esk towards Glaisdale village, 2 miles away.  The river twists and squirms its way through the valley.  There’s nothing I like better than the company of a river on my walks.

In theory you could catch the train back from Glaisdale, or you could simply retrace your steps.  I hope to show you a little of Glaisdale village and the Beggar’s Bridge in another post.  In the meantime, I’m sure you could be tempted to a slice of delicious cake from Beck View Tea Room, or even one of the ‘specials’ from The Board Inn.  You must have earned it by now.

And, should you be wondering, yes, they do tip a heap of yellow plastic ducks into the river.  If you have one of the fastest ducks you can win a prize, but the event is to raise money for charity.

A date for next year's diary?

A date for next year’s diary?

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Lots of walks to share again this week, and a huge thank you to everybody for taking the time both to contribute and to read.  Details of how to take part can be found on my Jo’s Monday walk page or on the logo above.  I’ve had 2 cups of coffee already this morning!

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Anabel was the first to share this week!  Expect a bench or two.

River Earn and Laggan Hill

Botanic Gardens do vary! Pauline was disappointed in this and I can see why :

A walk in a Botanic garden

Jude is a lady who never disappoints! Take a look at some great Quoit photos!

A walk in the past

Nobody out there sees the world quite like Drake!  Ducks are so endearing :

Above not only the water

More water, boats and a beautiful rainbow, from Ruth :

A walk around Sullivan’s Cove, Hobart

Canal restoration is a subject that I love.  Even in black and white, this is exceptionally beautiful!

Show me the Wey

I like surprises!  This is a really nice one from Violet Sky :

A nice place to live

Starting in the rain, with Geoff… well, it is English Summertime!

Eastbourne to Alfriston and back- a walk of two halves

Something a little unusual for you now.  Thanks a lot, Jaspa!

Three Rivers Petroglyphs, New Mexico

Rosemay is currently in Perth, but she has a lovely London-based daughter :

On the trail of Notting Hill : Portobello Road markets

Exotic and beautiful!   A world I will never know except through Lisa’s eyes :

Vanua Balavu: Walking the Nabavatu Plantation

And more from the Southern Hemisphere.  Some fond memories with Jill :

Come with me along historic Marine Parade, Napier

Let’s round it all off with a bit of drama!

Killing Nanny Meg

I hope you have time to visit all the walks.  Maybe pop back later?  Thanks again everybody, and see you next week.

Which way next?

IMG_7976 My stepping stones were much admired in last week’s Which Way post so I thought I’d share with you another idyllic and very English scene in the North Yorkshire village of Lealholm.  I don’t take many photos of people but this little family setting really made me smile.  Join me in the gallery.

Innocent pleasures!  It’s nice to see they’re still around.

I thought I’d take part in Cee’s Which Way Challenge again this week because it will be fortnightly from now on.  Alternate weeks will be a black and white photo challenge, and that’s a whole different ball game.

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On the right track in Weardale

I am a compulsive collector of leaflets and travel articles.  Tell me whereabouts you’d like to go and you can be sure I’ll dig deep and find the very leaflet to take you there and show you everything there is to see.  Trouble is, I end up with far more leaflets than places I’ve been to.  So life with me is a constant struggle to keep up with the leaflet collection- just ask my husband!  But sometimes we end up in the most beguiling places.

Weardale poster

Weardale poster

Take Tuesday, for instance.  A bit of a grey and murky one, but that hint of Autumn colour’s still out there.  How long will it take us to get to Wolsingham? I ask the unsuspecting husband.  My motive?  One of the prettiest train rides I’ve ever taken.

Diesel at Wolsingham

Our diesel train awaits at Wolsingham

Wolsingham is a pleasant market town on the River Wear in the North Pennines, an area of truly outstanding natural beauty.  The railway station is on the edge of town and was completely deserted when we arrived.  The conductor was more than happy to discuss options.  It was a designated Heritage Day, which meant that a steam train would be running at intervals throughout the day.  We were more than happy to climb aboard the waiting diesel, certainly the first time we’d ever had an entire train to ourselves.  How could this railway line pay for itself we asked the conductor.  He explained that it had been purchased primarily for freight, but that in Summer it was easily viable.

Weardale Railway

On the Weardale Railway

We were soon to see why.  The railway closely follows the River Wear along the valley and we were constantly rewarded by chuckling, gurgling stretches of water.  At one point the guard was required to climb down from the train to manually open the crossing gate- when did I last see that happen?  We were heading for Stanhope, just 20 minutes away, but first we would pass by Frosterley.  We had noted from the timetable that if we wanted to disembark there we needed to tell the guard in advance.  Just as well we didn’t as I later discovered that the Black Bull Inn, one of the main reasons to go there, only opens Wednesday to Sunday.

Fully restored in 2005 to a traditional English pub of the 1800s, with flagged floors and open fires, the food looks fabulous.  Interestingly this is the only pub in England with its own peal of bells, housed in an adjoining building.(Telephone 01388 527784) On the website www.blackbullfrosterley.com the links More and Bells will lead you to “The Bellringers Tale”.

River Wear

Hard to capture

Passing through thickly wooded slopes, the friendly conductor told us that the views of the river were better at this time of year.  In Summer they would be lost in leafy foliage.  Camera in hand, I tried hard to capture the abrupt splashes of red, but never quite made it.  A couple of weeks earlier we would have been bathed in an amber glow.

Stepping stones at Stanhope

Stepping stones at Stanhope

In no time at all we were gliding into Stanhope station.  I had previously walked the river banks and crossed the stepping stones here.  Today’s excitement for me was the train, but Stanhope is a lovely small town.  The Tourist Information office is situated in the Durham Dales Centre on Front Street, an interesting venue in its own right.  A happy hour or two could be spent here on one of those cold, dreary days that sometimes hit this part of the world.  The café sells a good array of warming food and there are several craft shops to browse.

Durham Dales Centre

Durham Dales Centre

Stanhope Castle

Stanhope Castle

Fossil Tree

Fossil Tree

Further along Front St you have fine views of privately owned Stanhope Castle, while 12th Century St Thomas Church overlooks the Market Place.  A real crowd pleaser, the 320 million years old Fossil Tree stands in the grounds, while the Victorian font is made of Frosterley marble.  Dropping down The Butts will bring you to the riverside walk and Castle Park, home of the county’s only open-air heated swimming pool (May to August).  Or you could walk (or drive) to beautiful Tunstall Reservoir.

Tunstall Reservoir

Lovely Tunstall Reservoir

Back at the station the steam engine is warming up for the journey back to Wolsingham.  Manned chiefly by volunteers, steam events take place throughout the year.  From 26th November the Santa Specials take to the rails.  For full timetable details and the history of the railway: www.weardale-railway.org.uk  The railway continues on to Bishop Auckland, a short walk from the main-line station.

Wolsingham Station

Wolsingham Station

In Wolsingham we park at the Demesne Mill picnic area and wander back to the High St.  All is quiet and peaceful and we pop into Peggotty’s Tea Room, off Market Square.  Mince cobbler, a favourite of mine, is on the menu for £6.95, and in the attached bakery a variety of Tiffins are displayed.  Cranberry and white chocolate is barely resistible for 99p.    

Stone cottage, Wolsingham

Old stone cottages, Wolsingham

Time to return home, just an hour down the road, and move the leaflet to the bottom of the pile- mission very happily accomplished!