Jo’s Monday walk

Jo’s Monday walk : Hartlepool Story Trail

Fish Annie's song

Fish Annie’s song

I’ve been promising this particular walk for quite a long time.  I hope you like it!

The Hartlepool Story Trail follows a sequence of 18 signs, crowned by a monkey.  You’ll see why later.  It traces the history of Hartlepool back to AD640, highlighting local landmarks along the way.

It’s a walk that I often do, paying no particular attention to the signs because my eyes are focussed on the sea.  Hartlepool’s history is irretrievably mixed with the maritime and the walk starts midway along the promenade.  Why, I really don’t know!

It all begins with the 'Island of Harts'

No. 1- the ‘Island of Harts’

The hart is a symbol of Hartlepool and appears throughout the town

The hart is a symbol of Hartlepool and appears throughout the town

It will be fairly obvious, I think, that I took some of these photos on different days.  The sea is always a magnet to me, whether it’s thundering against the sea walls or softly licking the shore.

No. 2- Fairy Cove

No. 2-  ‘Fairy Cove’

A calm blue background today

A calm blue background for the monkey

This point marks the north eastern end of the town wall.   The ‘Fairy Coves’ were man-made circular excavations, 5 metres in diameter, about 12 feet above the shore, and intended as ‘places of concealment’ for humans.

No. 3-

No. 3-  Beacon and Town Moor

Today's beacon, on a better day!

Today’s beacon, on a bluer day!

No. 4-  Bandstand & Elephant Rock

No. 4- Bandstand & Elephant Rock

Elephant Rock, which collapsed in 1891

Elephant Rock, which collapsed in 1891

  • The bandstand still exists, though in rather dilapidated condition.  Gone are the days when it witnessed street theatre, boxing matches and even motor bike racing time trials. Elephant Rock, sadly, is no more, but there are still numerous smaller stacks along the shoreline.
  • No. 5-  Lighthouse and Heugh Battery

    No. 5- Lighthouse and Heugh Battery

    The first lighthouse on this site dates from 1847 and was one of the world’s first to be operated by gas.  It was dismantled during the First World War because its position prevented retaliatory fire from the Heugh Gun Battery, in the Bombardment of Hartlepool on 16th December, 1914.

    The current lighthouse dates from 1926

    The current lighthouse dates from 1926

You may have noticed the darkening sky, and my wonky photo, above.  Rounding the lighthouse one day last week, I was met by a storm of hailstones, and this!  Happily I wore a waterproof.

The sea was having fun!

The sea was having fun!

Lots of fun!

Lots of fun!  These photos are not in black and white.

As the sea lashed the promenade, I made a dash for the next sign, no.6- Cliff Terrace.

Some of the signs are quite weather worn, too!

Some of the signs are quite weather worn.  It’s no wonder!

No. 7,  just off the seafront and a little more sheltered, rather strangely comes in two parts- ‘a’ and ‘b’.  Billy Purvis, the subject of 7a and something of a jester, is buried in the grounds of nearby St. Hilda’s Church.

No. 7a-  Billy Purvis

No. 7a- Billy Purvis

7b is, of course, the church itself.

7b  of course, is St. Hilda’s church, dating from 1190.

Pretty in snow, isn't it?

Pretty in snow, isn’t it?

So far this year, there’s been no snow in the north east.  Hush!  Don’t even think about it.  Neither has it been paddling pool weather, but that’s where we’re going next.

No. 8-  the 'Paddling Pool'

No. 8- the ‘Paddling Pool’

One chilly monkey!  What's that saying?  Brass monkeys?

One chilly monkey! What’s that saying? Brass monkeys?

As the sign says, we once boasted a handsome paddling pool set into the rocks beneath this promenade.  I dimly remember it from my childhood, but in 1953 a tremendous storm hit the north east coast, and the damage was irreparable.  There is a much tamer version of the paddling pool set into the lower promenade, and it continues to delight small persons in Summer.

No. 9-  'Hartlepool Lifeboats'

No. 9- ‘Hartlepool Lifeboats’

Unthinkable that we could have a town without a lifeboat, and one has been in existence since 1803.  The first cost just £300 to build locally, and was propelled by 10 oars.

No. 10-  'Fish Sands and the Monkey'

No. 10-  ‘Fish Sands and the Monkey’

This is a crucial sign, and the one I started this post with, seen here on a hazy summer’s day.  The sign includes the tale of the monkey-hanging, which no self-respecting Hartlepudlian can fail to know, though it doesn’t reflect well on us.  Allegedly, during the Napoleonic Wars, a severe storm hit a French vessel off the coast of Hartlepool.  Following the wreck of the ship a sole survivor, a nautically attired monkey, was washed ashore on the Fish Sands.  Being unfamiliar with monkeys and naturally suspicious of the French, the people of Hartlepool decided to hang this “Frenchman” as a spy, and have been trying to live it down ever since.

No. 11-  'The Croft and Sandwell Chare'

No. 11- ‘The Croft and Sandwell Chare’, with St. Hilda’s in the background

The Chare- the prettiest bit of the town wall

Sandwell Gate, leading to the beach- the prettiest bit of the town wall

The Croft Gardens now sit below St. Hilda’s Church (but beside Verrill’s Chip Shop- another famous landmark!)  This was the site of the former old town, which was demolished in 1938.

'Chalybeate Spring' was a thriving Health Spa

No. 12-  ‘Town Wall and Chalybeate Spring’

Amazing to think that our pretty Town Wall, which has often been admired as my former header, has stood firm against elements and enemies since 1322.  ‘Chalybeate Spring’ was a thriving Health Spa, said to cure indigestion and other ailments.  Must have been the bracing sea air!

No. 14-  'Middleton & Ferry Crossing'

No. 14- ‘Middleton & Ferry Crossing’

Sadly I don’t remember the ferry, which stopped running in 1952, but I well remember Middleton and the dockland area.

The alert amongst you may have noticed a leap in the signs.  No. 13 is absent because I simply couldn’t find it!  Having got this far, in spite of inclement weather, I decided to terminate the walk.  I already have more information than you can readily digest and I don’t want to bore.

If you are interested and stop to read every one of the signs, the walk will take you no more than an hour or two.  There’s a map at the bottom of each sign so you can’t get lost.  On a nice day there are plenty of spots to linger and just watch the sea, and the boats heading for harbour.  If it rains I could recommend you to Mary Rowntree’s tearooms.  A former chapel, it has been beautifully converted, and you will pass it on your route.  Or you may be lucky enough to find St. Hilda’s open, and step inside.  For background history, if you can’t get here, this is an excellent article.

So what did you think of this week’s walk?  And, more importantly, do you have a walk you’d like to share with me?  If you do, I’d be delighted if you could leave a link in the comments below.  Or even link back to me from your post, if it’s a new one.  I look forward to an evening’s reading.

You can join in too!

http://dadirridreaming.wordpress.com/2014/03/31/jos-monday-walk-swimming-on-the-bingie-dreaming-track/

http://shareandconnect.wordpress.com/2014/03/31/jos-monday-walk-longwood-gardens/

http://smallbluegreenwords.wordpress.com/2013/03/12/strolling-around-the-ile-de-la-cite/

http://poppytump.wordpress.com/2014/03/31/clouds/

http://sonelcorner.wordpress.com/2014/04/01/jos-monday-walk-schoemansville-oewerclub/

http://55daysinwarsaw.wordpress.com/2013/09/17/a-walk-in-warsaw-rain/

http://morselsandscraps.wordpress.com//?s=Return+to+the+headland

http://morselsandscraps.wordpress.com//?s=A+photo+stroll+Sydney+CBD

 

 

Jo’s Monday walk : Crimdon beach

IMG_4570

First of all I need to say a huge ‘thank you’ to all of the people who joined in on my Monday walk last week.  I was so happy with the response I got that I really can’t wait to do it again.  Let’s take the walk first, shall we, and I’ll explain a little more later.

Crimdon Beach

This is another local walk, and probably comes in the ‘ugly’ category.  I can’t just show you pretty pictures can I?  It wouldn’t be truthful, or fair to the area.  Crimdon lies just north of Hartlepool, on the north east coast of England.  It is one of my childhood beaches.  A day trip to Crimdon was exciting in those days!  To this day, a caravan park sits atop the beach, and you can wander through it playing the ‘I’d like this one’ game.  Front facing the sea, naturally.

How about this one? A few tubs on the deck and it would be perfect!

How about this one? A few tubs on the deck and it would be perfect!

But I’m getting away from the subject.  This is a circular walk which includes the beach and Crimdon Dene.  Our start point is the cliff top car park.

Here you have it!

Here you have it!

As you can see, it’s part of the Durham Coastal footpath, very easily accessible and with some excellent cliff top walking.  Hartlepool was once a part of Durham County, but that is history.

But I cannot always offer you the blue skies!

First drop down the stepped boardwalk and onto the beach

Today a watery sun glints in the rockpools

Today there’s a watery sun, glinting in the rock pools
You'll maybe recognise this view from a previous post?

You might just recognise this view from a previous post where I got wet!

There go the walkers, striding up the beach!

There go the walkers, striding up the beach!

In places the sea is trapped at low tide

In places, the sea gets trapped at low tide
The patterns formed in the dune a mystery

The patterns formed in the dune, a mystery

And looking back, some walkers in outline, at the top

And looking back, tiny walkers in outline, near the top

With the tide out, you can walk right along this beach to Hartlepool.  In the distance you can still see the disused pier that is all that is left of a former magnesium works.  In Summer you might observe protective fencing along the dunes, where a nesting colony of Little Terns make their home for 4 months every year.  They spend Winter in West Africa, lucky things!

But today we are going into Crimdon Dene.  A wooded valley cutting through cliffs of magnesium limestone, it forms the boundary with County Durham.  The Dene’s dominant landmark is the lofty railway viaduct, completed in 1905, over which the north coast railway service periodically rattles.  I remember being hugely excited by it when I was small.

Hartlepool Headland just visible in the distance

Hartlepool Headland just visible in the distance

Safeguard the Little Terns

Safeguarding the Little Terns

Crimdon or Hartlepool?

Crimdon or Hartlepool?

Underneath the arches of Crimdon railway viaduct

Underneath the arches of Crimdon railway viaduct

Leaving the Dene from beneath the viaduct

Leaving the Dene from beneath the viaduct

A steepish climb will bring you back up to the cliff top car park.  The distance is little more than 2 miles but you can extend it as far along the beach as you wish.  There are no facilities as the club house on the caravan park is ‘members only’.  Hard to believe that back in the 50s this was a thriving resort.  A Six word Saturday post from about this time last year will show you the area from a slightly different (and sunnier) aspect.

And now it’s your turn!  Last week I suggested that I would love to hear about walks in your area. I can never cover as much ground as I’d like to, so I would really appreciate sitting back in my armchair for a virtual walk around your neighbourhood.  If you have a post about a favourite walk that you’d like to share, please leave a link in my comments box.  You can do this any day of the week, and it can be a full walk or just a few photos- I’ll be delighted either way.

In return I will tweet or post it on Facebook for those of you who use social media.  I usually share when I like a post anyway, but sometimes I forget.  Age, you know!  I don’t know if you’ve found my Restlessjo page on Facebook, but I’d love to see you there.  Happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : Greatham Creek

The spy holes in the hide

The spy holes in the hide, Greatham Creek

First, a word of explanation.  For quite some time I’ve been including walks in my posts, and most of you seem to enjoy taking a stroll with me.  It occurred to me the other day (when I was out walking, of course) that I could make this a regular feature, and invite people to join in and share, if they want to.  Lots of you will have favourite walks, and I would love to hear about them.

So, let’s start with Greatham Creek.  Now, unless you’re a local, I know you will be reading this as Great Ham, but the pronunciation is, in fact, Gree Tham.  Funny old language, isn’t it?  Not long since, I took you on a wander through the snowdrops in Greatham Village.  That could well be the start point for this walk, but I am choosing to do it differently today.

Instead, we're starting at the bird hide on the Seal Sands road

Instead, we’re starting at the bird hide on the Seal Sands road

See the peep holes? Now what are they looking at?

See the peep holes? Now, what are they looking at?

This fellow, and his friends

This fellow, and his friends

You did notice that I called it Seal Sands road, didn’t you?  The area is highly industrialised, with smoke belching from chimneys on the skyline, but for a number of years this has been home to a colony of seals.  So much so that, passing by on the bus to Middlesbrough with my nose stuck in a book, I sometimes even forget to notice them.  Not today, though.

Clear and bright with just a little nip to the air, it was perfect for socialising with seals.

Now a seal might like a little privacy, and rightly so

Now a seal might like a little privacy, and rightly so

So there are opportunities to hide yourself

So there are opportunities to ‘hide’ yourself

And still get a decent view of the seals (and the industry!)

While still getting a decent view of the seals (and the industry)

There is a car park on the Seal Sands road (the A189), right by the hide.  When you’ve had enough of playing hide and seek, cross over the creek on the road bridge and follow the public footpath off to your left.  Work is currently in progress to extend the footpath on the other side of the bridge, which will lead to another hide.

Crossing the creek

Crossing the creek

Which spreads out, inland

Which spreads out, inland

And the seals carry on doing what seals do

Passing the seals, who carry on doing what seals do
As does the industry!

As does the industry!

The creek is tidal, so the water level is variable.  The number of seals basking on the sands varies too.  To be truthful, it isn’t always the weather for basking.  When the skies are leaden the whole area is very depressing.

But whenever they can, they're there

But nobody seems to have told the seals!

The patterns carved by the creek vary too

The patterns carved by the creek vary, too

Unravelling like knitting yarn

Winding off like unravelling yarn

The footpath winds around the creek

The footpath follows the creek, with occasional steps up and down

Then it veers off to the right, heading towards Greatham Village.  The fields were still a little flooded in places, after the heavy rain, but passable, with care.  I didn’t have proper walking shoes on and opted to turn back.

There is a way around, honest!

There is a way around, honestly!

The walk continues, passing the derelict Cerebos site and over the railway tracks into Greatham. The “Hope and Anchor” on the High Street is an old favourite of mine, if you need a food or drink stop.  Or you can simply retrace your steps at any point.  I was only out walking for about an hour, having come with the sole purpose of seeing the seals.

So, that’s my walk for today.  I hope you enjoyed it.  Now I’m rather hoping that I might tempt a few of you into sharing walks with me?  You can include as much or as little detail as you like.  A full walk would be great but if you want to show me just a photo or two from a walk you know, I’d be happy with that too.  My walks will mostly be in the north east of England, because that’s home, but now and then I might just stray.

If you decide to participate, please leave a link to your walk in the comments box below.  Let’s see how far we can get, shall we?  I’m really looking forward to it.