Six Word Saturday

                               

                      Signed up, all set to play!

 

Sand City, FIESA, Pera, Algarve

http://www.showmyface.com/2008/01/six-word-saturdays.html

It seemed straightforward when I decided to follow Alyson Sheldrake’s lead and take part in Six Word Saturday.http://thethoughtpalette.co.uk/six-word-saturday/  Unfortunately I’m not very familiar with the formatting process on WordPress and a simple idea has taken me 3 hours to complete!  And I still haven’t managed to show the “Six Word Saturday” banner!  Will I be disqualified? Maybe I’ll be faster next week, or will I just spend my whole Saturday on 6 words.  Did somebody say “life is for learning”? 

My A – Z of Travel

Life’s good sometimes, isn’t it?  I was just recovering from being awarded the ABC Award (Awesome Blog Content) by lovely Alyson Weldrake of http://thethoughtpalette.co.uk/abc-award/, when Lucy Dodsworth, of ontheluce.com, another favourite blog, passed me this challenge.  Well, I have a lot to live up to, but I get to revisit some really happy memories.  Then I pass it on and take time out to read all those other A-Z’s- pure pleasure!  So, here goes:

A : Age at which you went on your first trip abroad:

My Mum’s idea of a holiday was a cottage near Scarborough, so trips abroad didn’t figure in my childhood.  My first ever bid for “freedom” was aged 21, when, quite pregnant with my daughter, I could see the world slipping away from me and booked myself solo on a flight to Paris.  It took me 40+ years to return but I managed to spend my Silver Wedding anniversary in the gardens at Giverny, and Versailles. (my husband is a garden designer, so he was easily persuaded)

B : Best foreign beer you’ve had and where:

Truthfully I’m not much of a one for beer.  Occasionally, after a long hot day, one hits the spot.  You wouldn’t go with one of my recommendations though.

Beer in Turkey

Can’t dispute photographic evidence- Turkish beer?

C : Cuisine : 

Probably Italian, but I’m quite versatile and will try most things.  Could quite easily become vegetarian.  Not sushi please, and never try to make me eat any of those spicy sausage, chourico-types.  Big shout up for Polish pierogi and soups, (my Dad would be proud), and I like a bit of spice.

D : Destinations, favourite, least favourite, and why:

Ponte Romana at Tavira

Anyone who knows me will know that I have a second home in the Algarve and that I am passionate about Portugal as a destination.  For me it has everything, from glorious beaches to stunning sierras, a fascinating history and a wealth of places to explore, many of which I have yet to reach.  Least favourite?  Wouldn’t really want to pin that on anywhere specific, that’s a bit unkind.  I’ll just say that I’m a Scorpio and anywhere that doesn’t have water nearby, I struggle with.  Lakes and mountains are great, but not fussy on flat open spaces.  

E : Event you experienced abroad that made you say “wow”:

Festa dos Tabuleiros

Festa dos Tabuleiros- the procession

“Wow” in a good way?  The Festa dos Tabuleiros in Tomar last July was pretty special.  The event is only held once every 4 years and when you see the effort that goes into it you can well understand why.  Given my love of boats and water, the Tall Ships Races have great pulling power for me too.  I totally loved having my home town Hartlepool, in North East England, host the final leg last year, and am hoping to make it to Cadiz in July to see them again- breathtaking!

Dewaruci

Dewaruci- one of my Favourite Tall Ships

F : Favourite mode of transportation :

Everyone loves trains.  Me too, but I have to say that I do love flying.  Not the boring waiting about, and the confined space and recycled air on board, but that awesome experience of looking down at my world.  Torture for me is one of those really cloudy flights that you sometimes get- zero visibility.  Nightmare!  Once we start to taxi along the runway I put on my specs and prepare to glue my nose to the window.  (I’m no fun if I haven’t got a window seat)  Love trying to identify which part I’m overflying (stunning views of Porto once) and I always mean to travel with a detailed map on my knee, but usually forget!

G : Greatest feeling while travelling :

Anticipation!  I just love it when I’m heading for somewhere new.

The prettiest little Greek church?

H : Hottest place you’ve travelled to :

Haven’t been to any of the world’s truly hot places, and most of my experiences have been European but I can remember melting in Venice once (worth it, of course and I’ve been back twice in cooler temperatures).  The Samaria Gorge in Crete wasn’t exactly cool, and I always seemed to toil up to the top of a Greek Island in heat, no matter what time of day I set off!  Terrible planning.

Hot in the Samaria Gorge

I : Incredible service you’ve experienced and why :

I’m going local with this one- local to Tavira, that is!  We have a lovely little riverfront bar, called Anazu.  From the moment we first set foot in there 9 years ago, Paula, her husband and Luis have made us welcome.  There’s always a smile, and an enquiry after the family.  Two glasses of port appear in front of us unsummoned.  The cares of the world just roll away.  We’re home again.

J : Journey that took the longest :

Hmmh, that would be the first trip to America.  We checked into Newcastle airport, only to be told to hang onto our cases as we were being transferred by coach to Manchester.  Strike action was afoot and bodies littered the concourse when we did get there.  Many wearying hours spent at Manchester, we arrived in the States at entirely the wrong time of day to pick up the hire car and head out into the dark with a sketchy bit of paper showing our destination.  “You’re the navigator” said my tired and irritable husband, trying to fathom junctions and overhead signs.  Happy days!

K : Keepsake from your travels :

Postcards for me too (can they be an addiction?) but I am often to be found pocketing shells and stones from some of the lovely beaches I’ve wandered on.  I have a wonderfully creative daughter who endeavoured to use them up by making me jewellery Christmas presents this year.

Shell necklace

Shell necklace

L : Let-down sight, where and why :

St Wolfgang in the sunshine

St Wolfgang, in the sunshine

It was clear and pleasant when we left the lakeside at St Wolfgang to rack and pinion our way up to the peaks.  Alas, when we got there the promised spectacular mountain views had “disappeared” in thick, cold, Alpine fog.

M : Moment when you fell in love with travel :

Afraid I’ve always been restless- must be in the genes.  At 18 I left home and friends to live in London and I explored that city to within an inch of its life!  With prescious little money in my pocket, I walked till I couldn’t any more.  Love the city still, though I’m more for the quiet life these days.  My lady friends and I made a celebratory visit there last August (coincided with the riots, of course).  Oh, did we have fun!

Tea at the Ritz

Tea at the Ritz

N  : Nicest hotel you’ve stayed in :

Sadly, don’t do posh hotels in the main.  We usually travel as cheaply as possible.  A couple are memorable; notably Hotel Guadeloupe, which was ideally placed for the Alhambra; Solar de Monfalim in Evora, such a gracious Portuguese mansion in the most atmospheric of cities; and a lovely family-owned small hotel in Bardolino on the shores of Lake Garda, whose name escapes me (it WAS 18years ago, but the pasta was amazing).

Hotel Solar Monfalim, Evora

O : Obsession : what are you obsessed with taking photos of when you travel :

Boats and water mainly:

Turkish Gulet

Mooring at Kas

The harbour at Fethiye

Or anything I want to retain as a memory:

The backgammon ace!

P : Passport stamps, how many and from where :

Not many I don’t suppose, but I’ve visited Austria, Belgium, Canaries, Corfu, Crete, Croatia, Cyclades, Denmark, France, Greek Mainland, Italy, Madeira, Poland, Portugal, Rhodes, Spain, Turkey, the USA, Zante  (alphabetically, of course).  The wish list is huge.

Q : Quirkiest attraction you’ve visited and where :

Prezzemolo

Parsley the Dragon

I can remember following a green dragon called Prezzemolo (Parsley) in a procession at Gardaland in Italy many years ago.  The things we’ve done to keep our son amused!  Also in Italy, Il Vittoriale, high above Gardone Riviera, sports a large battleship, Puglia, in it’s gardens.  Definitely landlocked!

Puglia, Il Vittoriale

Stand by for blast off! On board Puglia

R : Recommended sight, event or experience :

Hotel Coronado

Hotel Coronado-not a great shot,but what a destination!

Where do you start?  One that stays with me and I would love to revisit with more time to spare is San Diego Bay.  On the beach by Hotel Coronado I had a Marilyn Monroe moment, and the views out across the water from the restaurants were superb.  Or incredible Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore- water AND gardens, the perfect confection.  So different, but I was also wholeheartedly in love with Warsaw’s Stare Miasto- impossible to believe that so much of it was reconstruction after the Nazis raized it to the ground.

Isola Bela, Lake Maggiore

Stare Miasto, Warsaw

S : Splurge ; something you have no problem forking out money for when travelling :

If I can find somewhere with a lovely view I’m happy to sit indefinitely with a glass or two of wine.

Porto Moniz, Madeira

A smiling husband in Cordoba

Real Alcazhar, Seville

T : Touristy thing you’ve done :

Breakfast with Dale

Have to confess to absolutely loving the Disney parades.  I was ecstatic to have Buzz Lightyear kiss my hand, and Chip and Dale- who wouldn’t want to take them home?

U : Unforgettable travel memory :

Gulet sunset

Gulet sunset

Gulet cruise from Bodrum to Fethiye- a little strange in that it was a late honeymoon, but we couldn’t afford to do it at any other time.  Certainly we weren’t sure if we wanted to share with 10 other people and 3 crew, but it was a fabulous holiday, despite my being stung on the bum by a wasp.

V : Visas ; how many and for where :

Easy answer- none.  Have led a sheltered life!

W :  Wine, best glass of wine while travelling and where :

Welcome to Obidos! The gateway

Obidos. O Conquistador restaurant.  We were taking a breather in a long day’s travelling and opted to eat before returning to the fun of the Medieval Fair.  The restaurant was quiet as everyone was at the fair and the owner was wonderfully relaxed.  The wine was served in earthenware tumblers and was as good as any I’ve ever tasted.  Portuguese Dao and Alentejan wines are generally superb.

X : eXcellent view and from where :

So many it’s an impossible choice but I’ll go with the view of the River Guadiana down to the Alqueva Dam, from the turrets of Monsaraz in Portugal.

A grey day at Monsaraz- imagine it in sunshine

Y : Years spent travelling :

Embarrassingly 40+.  Wish it had been constant though.  Much of my travelling is done fairly locally, but it’s all world, and so much to enjoy.

Z : Zealous sports fans and where :

I’m not a huge sports enthusiast but I rarely miss Nadal playing tennis (on TV).  My husband and son are passionate about football and never pass up an opportunity to see a live match.  Las Palmas on Tenerife was a rowdy and memorable one but the Portuguese take some beating when it comes to “excitability” for a normally calm and courteous race.

I’ve really enjoyed doing this.  Good old Memory Lane.  Now, who else would appreciate this challenge?

http://apetcher.wordpress.com/ Have Bag/ Will Travel

http://mecwrites25.wordpress.com/  La Chica Writes

http://megtraveling.com/  Meg Travels

http://shipscooksstuff.wordpress.com/  Shipscook Stuff

http://kimberlyblagrove.wordpress.com/  The Nappy Wanderer

2011 in review

The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2011 annual report for this blog.

Here’s an excerpt:

A San Francisco cable car holds 60 people. This blog was viewed about 1,500 times in 2011. If it were a cable car, it would take about 25 trips to carry that many people.

Click here to see the complete report.

An Award!

Just as I was logging off to head for a nice lazy bath full of bubbles with my book last night, something rather wonderful popped up in my Inbox! I had been selected by Alyson Weldrake of thethoughtpalette.co.uk/abc-award/as a recipient of her newly created award for Awesome Blog Content.

Wow! It was like receiving a belated Christmas/Thanksgiving present and New Year greetings all rolled into one.  I shared the excitement with my husband, then tum-ti-tum-d my way up the stairs.  My first ever blogging award!  I dashed back down the stairs again (MUST get a bungalow one of these years!), dropped a kiss on his head, and filled a glass with white wine to sashay back up the stairs.

Woke up this morning and checked my Inbox again, and yes, it’s still there!  My very own ABC Award.

Now don’t get me wrong- I am not the sole recipient of this honour.  Reading down Alyson’s list I realised that I was in very fine company indeed.  Part of the delight of this is that I now have an invitation to meet other bloggers that I would not necessarily have found on my own initiative.  Believe me, I’ve dabbled in “social media” in an attempt to find like minded people- not easy!  Mostly all I want to do is share my joy in writing about the things I love.

Enough rambling! I have a contractual obligation to fulfill.  I humbly accept this award Alyson, bless your kind heart!

Here comes my Alphabet which reveals a few things about me:

A       Award-winner!                                        Nadal

B       Blogger                                                  Optimist

C       Courteous                                               Poland

D       Daughter                                                Quarrelsome

E        Easter                                                    Restless

F        Faithful                                                   Scribbler

G        Greedy                                                   Tavira

H        Hopeful                                                   Uncoordinated

I         Italy                                                       Venezuela

J         Johanna                                                  Wanderlust

K         Kind                                                       X-asperating

L          Loving                                                   Yellow

M         Mother                                                   Zante

I am very happy to pass on this award to some of the people who have inspired me:

susanwritesprecise

www.titabuds.com

www.thetravelbunny.wordpress.com

www.ontheluce.com

http://malloryontravel.com

and will be notifying them tomorrow with a clear head.  Being technologically challenged I’ve struggled a bit to get this up and running.  Hope I don’t disappoint, Alyson.  Again, many thanks!

P.S Don’t know if you can have a P.S on blogs but I seem to need one! As I was scampering to get out of the door last night I failed to nominate a couple of blogs I really love and am hereby rectifying this!

Kana’s Chronicles

Devouring Scotland

This man’s journey

Chasing the Byron connection? Windswept at Seaham

Rough seas at Seaham Harbour - copyright Ian Britton at Freefoto.com

Life is strange sometimes, isn’t it?  It was one of those “blowing a hooligan” days, but the sky was blue and bright and I just couldn’t stay home.  As always, it was the lure of the sea that pulled me up the coast to Seaham.  It’s a place I don’t often visit, but whenever I do it seems to have improved.  Over the years it’s had to pull itself up by the bootstraps.

Revitalised Terrace Green, Seaham

The Durham coastline is rugged in the extreme and Seaham Harbour was hacked out of these cliffs to provide transport for locally mined coal.  Seaham’s deep mines reached out more than 3 miles beneath the North Sea.  Seacoal and waste despoiled these beaches as far as the eye could see when the last mine finally closed in 1992.  Almost 20 years later, the sea has washed and groomed them back to a semblance of their old selves.

Of course, man has pitched in to help with the repair.  The success of this is evident in the Coastal Footpath which now graces the clifftops.  At numerous points along the coast road it’s easy to drop down onto wide sweeping stretches of coastline.

Seaham itself has a vast panorama.  At the southerly end the lighthouse juts out into the harbour.  Sometimes, returning home by train from Newcastle, I’ve witnessed the sea battering its way in over the harbour wall.  Today was not so ferocious, but I had to lean into the wind.

Lower promenade

From North Terrace you can descend to a lengthy promenade which hugs the cliffs.  Not pretty in itself, still it gives shelter from the wind and the chance to observe the nooks and crannies of the giants above.  Dogs foolishly bark at the waves and small wellie-wearers enjoy the rock pools.

Seaham Hall Beach Car Park Sculpture

At the northern end I clamber back to the cliff top to admire the Seaham Hall Beach Car Park sculpture.  Shaped like the layout of St Mary’s Church, it’s one of a number of sculptures which pay tribute to the town’s heritage.

Vane Tempest Sculpture

The Vane Tempest Sculpture is a striking piece of art work, depicting the skyline of the former Vane Tempest Colliery.

The upper promenade leads back to Terrace Green.  Opposite, at 17A North Terrace, is my favourite coffee stop in Seaham, “Leaf, Bark and Berries”.  An intriguing mix of food emporium, café and furniture shop, the homemade quiches are excellent and I always enjoy a browse at the crafts and cabinetry on display.  Using the sizeable properties to their full potential seems to be a Seaham trait, as I noticed that the newer “Black Truffle Coffee Shop” on Terrace Green boasted a boutique at the rear.  Must check it out, next time.

Leaf, Bark and Berries- cafe-cum-browsing opportunity

Looking back at my subject, you could be forgiven for wondering what all this has to do with Lord Byron.  On 2nd January, 1815 he married Anna Isabella Milbanke, the daughter of the owner of Seaham Hall.  The marriage took place at the Hall rather than at nearby St Mary’s, and was thought by many to be doomed for this reason.  Whatever the cause, they were to last only a year.  A child, Augusta Ada, was born on 2nd December.  She never knew her father, but at her own request was buried next to him in the family vault at Hucknall Torknard Church, Nottingham.  Which, completely coincidentally, brought me full circle with my last post on Byron’s ancestral home, Newstead Abbey.

Seaham Hall today is a very grand and successful hotel, the only obvious connection, Lord Byron’s Walk. www.seaham-hall.co.uk

Many more details of history and heritage can be found on www.seaham.com from whom I have borrowed a number of photographs.  The most recent addition to the town sculptures sits beside the new Byron Place Shopping Centre.

The Brothers- waitin t'gan down

Life as it was in Seaham, a town proud of it’s industrial past, yet reaching out to the future.

Byron’s Newstead Abbey

This weekend was epic for me.  I always love my pre-Christmas visit to my daughter in Nottingham, but this year we did something very special.  We visited Byron’s ancestral home, Newstead Abbey, decked out in all its Christmas finery.

Gates

The gates thrown wide in welcome

The presence of the poet, scholar and freedom fighter, not to mention lover, looms large in this beautiful historic house.  Certainly he was “a bit of a character” and the library is full of texts and tributes to his many escapades.  He lived at Newstead Abbey between 1808 and 1814, but debt finally forced him to sell.  Since then it has been variously renovated and restored by its owners.

The gatehouse

The gatehouse

The pretty pink Pronto bus, en route from Nottingham’s Victoria Centre Bus Station to Mansfield, deposits you right by the entrance.  The charming gatekeepers lodge is just a foretaste of what is to come, as the cheery attendant in the ticket booth is quick to point out.  First though, quite a long walk through the thickly forested grounds.  You can turn off the main drive to follow a winding woodland walk through the trees.  Children would delight in the hide and seek potential of this, though I was concentrating on not upending on the leaves.  In Spring the rhododendrons and camellias must sing with colour.

Approaching the lake

Approaching the lake

Lakeside

Just as you begin to tire you see ahead the drive’s ending, and soon an enormous lake.  Ducks and geese squabble about, while a disdainful peacock awaits your admiration.  On your left, proudly erect, the magnificent Abbey.

West Front

West Front of the Abbey

The West Front dates back to 1274, and is the original façade of the old priory church.  Also intact are the lovely medieval cloisters.  A more romantic setting would be hard to find.  No wonder it inspired Byron’s poetry.

The stairwell’s beautiful floral display

Step through the heavy door and your eyes are drawn to a grand flight of stairs.  Heraldic painting enlivens the ceiling.  If, like me, you’ve arrived on a Christmas opening day, you’ll be lured upwards by the sound of fine voices.  A costumed young lady and gent perform everything from carols to swing, their obvious enjoyment  bringing a smile to my face.  The wood-panelled Great Hall is very grand indeed.

The singers

Our entertainment in the Great Hall

Reluctantly I move on, the voices following.  A dazzling sequence of rooms present themselves.  The handiwork of the college students who have festooned the Abbey with gilded flora and foliage is a beautiful addition to this festive season.  Opulent and exquisite furnishings, Byron’s very own bed, each treasure follows the next.  My favourite, the Japanese room, has stunning cranes gliding across the walls.

Grand Salon

Grand Salon with gilded hydrangea heads in a stunning arrangement

Fabulous table top

Fabulous table top

Grand Salon, grand furnishings

Grand Salon, grand furnishings!

Salon, table and tree

A little genteel reading and writing?

Rocking horse

The rocking horse

Japanese room

My favourite, the Japanese Room

Cranes

Cranes adorning the wood-panelled walls

In the Gothic Revival Library a poet and storyteller invites you to linger.  The cabinets are filled to the brim with Byron’s astounding past.

Library

Gothic Revival Library and the dazzling chandelier

Library book?

Craft in the Library

Finally there waits the most romantic of cloisters, and a peak into the chapel.  Between duties, Santa is more than happy to chat, adding his own snippets of information to your knowledge.  A quick turn in the bracing air of the cloisters garden and your visit is almost complete.

Lisa meets Santa- just a little blurred. Must be the sherry?

The chapel’s stained glass windows

Inside the chapel

Cloister gardens

Cloister gardens

Naturally there is a shop full of temptation- chutneys, sweets, toys and all things Byron.  Better still, around the corner the café waits.  I was ready for my smoked bacon and brie Panini.  My daughter chose the soup, mightily packed with mushrooms and chives, before indulging her sweet tooth with organic carrot cake.  I resisted the tiny mince pies and a glass of sherry as we still had far to go.  Bookings were being taken for Christmas Afternoon Tea, which sounded superb for £15, but any day of the week Traditional Afternoon Tea can be had for just £10.

The shop

Toys in the shop

One last floral display

One last floral display

300 acres of park and gardens are available for exploration, but the sun was low in the sky and I settled for a quick look through the waterfall.  The grounds are open year round, 9am till dusk, and on Sundays, house tours are available April to September.  For further details and special events www.mynottingham.gov.uk/newsteadabbey Two highly detailed videos will show you round the house if you can’t get there in person.

Lisa and the Abbey

Lisa- not blurred!

Through the waterfall

Through the waterfall

The waterfall

“Mad, bad and dangerous to know” he may well have been, but I truly enjoyed my visit to Byron’s former home.

Grassington hosts 30th Dickensian Festival

Every year it seems there are more and more Christmas festivals and markets.  I’ve never had the authentic experience of a German Christmas Market.  Totally a sun-lover, pretty as a picture the markets might be, but I’m less than keen to embrace the biting cold and streaming eyes that often accompany them.  Never the less, I have an abiding memory of a crisp, cold December day when I was utterly transported by a Christmas Festival.

River Wharfe at Grassington

River Wharfe at Grassington

Grassington is a small town in a wild and beautiful location in the Yorkshire Dales.  In ferocious weather it’s every bit as difficult to get to as an alpine village, but, on an English Winter weekend in December, it casts a spell.

Pipe organ

Pipe Organ "Dignity"

Buckets are rattled at you as you pass the fire station and a lovely old pipe organ gives you pause- long enough to notice the sign inviting you in for refreshments.  It is, after all, an event in aid of charity.  But as you progress to Main Street, the sights and sounds capture you, and the magic of Grassington Dickensian Festival takes over.

Organ grinder at work

Organ grinder at work

First, the organ grinder, twirling out his sounds, then a homemade cakes and biscuits stall.  None of your ordinary old cakes here- chocolate tart with raspberries has my name written all over it.  Jewellery and crafts, chestnuts, honey roasted cashews, spit-roasted pork- my nose doesn’t know which way to turn.  The chill in the air persuades me that a hot chocolate laced with brandy will be just the thing.

Get your hot chocolate here!

Clutching it to me for warmth, I smile at the age-old antics of the Mummers, drawing in the crowd.  Morris dancers hop and skip.  Best not to loiter, unless you want a starring role.

Mummers singsong

The Mummers sing-song

Mummers

The Mummers and a "corpse"

Morris dancers

Morris dancers entertain the crowd

Maybe after another hot chocolate and brandy?  No, better to turn to the serious business of selecting a few small gifts from the many and various shops and stalls.  On Main Street, Gemini glistens with metal and gems, whilst Rustic Rabbit sparkles with every imaginable Christmas bauble.

Rustic Rabbit's Christmas window

Rustic Rabbit's Christmas window

As the day draws on and the pallid sun retreats, the atmosphere begins to build for the main event- the procession.  The town crier hovers by the brazier where torches are on sale to light the streetsThe youthful shepherds and kings, who have manned the hospice stall all day, quench their thirst at the Black Horse Hotel, still uninhibitedly selling 20p kisses for charity.

Town crier

Town crier

Black Horse

Black Horse Hotel

At 4pm sharp the procession is off and gathering momentum through the streets, the crowd following on.  A sharp rap on the door- “Is there any room?” asks Joseph, at the first hostelry.  “No room” booms the landlord.  On to the second and third of the town’s inns, the torches flickering, the atmosphere electrically charged.  Again the response, “no room”, and the crowd stifle a groan.  We exchange anxious looks, but the ending is inevitable- a return to the manger erected in the square.  Christmas carols have never sounded so poignant.

The procession

The procession

Suddenly it’s all over and the stall holders are packing for home.  The shops are open for a while longer if you’re quick, the queues gone now.  I seek shelter myself in the warmth of The Forester’s Arms.  Shrugging off my coat, I listen to the impromptu performance of carols from the fine voices gathered by the pool table.  The joy and wonder of Christmas is here in Grassington.

This year the final Saturday of Grassington’s 30th Dickensian Festival takes place on 17th December.  For the first time ever there will be an ice rink on this final weekend.  The festival is staged on three consecutive Saturdays in December, while 8 miles down the road, neighbouring Skipton has a Yuletide Festival on corresponding Sundays.

The town’s three inns all supply reasonably priced accommodation, or an opulent stay can be had at 5 star Grassington House Hotel.  Park and Ride is available, and coaches visit from far and wide.  Full details are available on  http://www.grassington.uk.com/dickensian%20festival/dickensian.htm, with a video to get you in the mood.   A useful little booklet, “One hundred things to see on a walk through Grassington”, can be very cheaply purchased from most of the town’s shops and pubs.  Proceeds go to charity and it will enable you to have a better look at this deserving little town and the beautiful surrounds.

Everything changes with time, but I do hope that popularity doesn’t spoil this wonderful event.  All the way home I sing to myself “There isn’t any room for strangers”.

Talking about Tavira

Having made the comparison in my last blog between Tavira in the Eastern Algarve and the lovely city of Durham, it must be time to introduce you properly to Tavira.  At this time of year we rush towards Christmas but, when the cold nips and the nights are dark, I can’t help longing for the skyline that I love.

Ponte Romana and the skyline

Ponte Romana and that compelling skyline

I first arrived in Tavira on an October day when the streets were full of puddles.  Blue sky peeped around the fluffy white clouds, but I had eyes only for the buildings.  Rainbow coloured tiles washed their faces, and I had my first introduction to the azulejo- a blue and white tile used throughout Portugal for telling a story.  And I do love a good story.

Carmo church

Igreja do Carmo

Parking and the one way system wasn’t easy for a newcomer but we found a space by the Igreja do Carmo, the mother church, and happily abandoned the car.  The cobbled streets wander erratically down to the river.  Gardens line both riverbanks, and across the River Gilao a tempting panorama of churches and castle walls awaits.  Two bridges provide easy access- one to admire the other from, with Ponte Romana effortlessly winning the beauty contest.

Rio Gilao and Ponte Romana

Rio Gilao and Ponte Romana

Ponte Romana

Ponte Romana

From the riverside cafe

From the riverside cafe

The river bank and Military Bridge

The river bank and Military Bridge

Off the main square, Praca da Republica, steps lead up to Igreja da Misericordia (Church of Mercy).  Here I was to discover the power of the azulejo.  The life of Christ and Works of Mercy are depicted in blue and white panels on the walls.  Our Lady of Mercy looks down from above the imposing main entrance.

Igreja da Misericordia

Igreja de Misericordia-copyright Wikipedia

On up the steep steps, I pause to admire the fine building that is the Palacio da Galeria.  Stepping inside I am entranced to discover that I can see through glass plates, down to the foundations.  To the rear, excavation continues slowly into Tavira’s history.  Restoration has created a beautiful museum, with sloping wooden ceilings.

View from the Castle Walls

View from the Castle Walls

Gardens and Santa Maria

Santa Maria through the castle gardens

Castle walls

Castle gate and walls

Just a little further up and you can rest in the gardens within the remains of the Castle walls.  A peaceful spot, the views from here out over the river mouth and the salt marshes are lovely.  The traditionally styled tessoura roofs are everywhere below.  Opposite the gardens another church, Santa Maria, contains the tomb of Dom Paio Peres Correia and the seven knights for whom he took back the town from the Moors in 1242.  The town had been ruled from Moorish Cordoba since 711 but the treacherous murder of his knights during a time of truce provoked Dom Paio.  Much of the town was destroyed during the conflict, and the church of Santa Maria was built on the site of the razed Mosque.

The name Tavira is thought to be derived from Arabic tabira, “the hidden”, but its history is long, dating back to the Late Bronze Age.  It was one of the first Phoenician settlements on the Iberian Peninsula and later the Romans built a port nearby.  The 17th century was a boom time for trade; salt, dried fish and wine were shipped.  The massive earthquake of 1755 destroyed much of the town, which was largely rebuilt in the 18th century, including the Misericordia church.

Bus station

The grand looking bus station with Santa Maria and the water tower(Camera Obscura) behind

Behind the Santa Maria, the landmark water tower has been converted for use as a Camera obscura.  On sunny days it is quite amusing to look up at the ceiling to view all of Tavira reflected there.  The charge is small and refreshments can be taken while you wait your turn.  Much grander refreshment is available at nearby restaurant A Ver, “the view”.  Outside tables provide one of Tavira’s finest, but at a cost.  The lunchtime menu is more reasonable, if you can’t resist the experience.

Conversion of fine buildings is almost a compulsion in Tavira and I watched with immense pride the reconstruction of the Convento de Graca, now a pousada– a state owned hotel.  The cloisters are stunning and it’s a place I would love to stay if I didn’t have a home here.

I can wander for hours in the back streets, noticing the detail on different buildings and choosing from the endless supply of pastelaria, the cafes the Portuguese love so much.  Almost all of the cakes are almond based and sticky sweet, delicious with a bica, the small strong hit of coffee.  My favourite remains the traditional pastel de nata, the custard tart- I was hooked from that very first bite.

Bandstand-vertical

Bandstand in riverside gardens,complete with terrapin

Blue tile building

One of many beautifully tiled buildings

Military Quarter

Military Quarter

Mercado-fish exhibition

Tavira repays wandering, with many peaceful small squares and unpredictable buildings: the Military Quarter on Rua do Poeta, with its soldiers reclining on the roof and the immaculate parade ground within; the new library with its designer-look corten steel wall; the old Mercado beside the river, now home to restaurants and shops and quirky exhibitions.  Most of all, the numerous churches, each so different in character.  These days I regard it a personal triumph if I can find open a church that I have not been inside.  The opening hours are somewhat unpredictable.  Another lovely place to linger with a book, or just to sit – the gardens of the Igreja de Sao Francisco, off Praca Zacarias Guerreiro.

Weir at sunset

Sunset Ponte Romano

Sun sets on the Ponte Romano

Shoreline at sunset

That view again!

Always, as evening descends, I’m drawn back to the waterfront, stilled from the bustle of the day.  Seated outside our old friend, café Anazu, many evenings have come and gone, watching the swifts dart about, and sipping at a port wine.  It isn’t easy to do justice to this place, and the calm I feel on my return.  Nor have I yet mentioned Tavira Island and our numerous boat trips, for they are the subject of a different blog. To be fair, I suspect that the more northerly Tomar with its winding river and Convento, of which I have already written in Festa dos Tabuleiros, is a better comparison with Durham.  Nao faz mal as they say in Portugal- it doesn’t really matter.

Discovering Durham

My husband can’t understand how or why I haven’t written more about the city of Durham.  It’s one of our favourite places for strolling (what’s more alluring than a river bank?), and beautiful in all seasons.  One of the many reasons we fell in love with Tavira in the Eastern Algarve was that it reminded us in some unspoken way of Durham: the churches, the river, the many places to eat, and to drink in lovely views.

Milburngate Bridge and the Weir- credit Wikipedia

Of course Durham is bigger and more cosmopolitan, and can’t compete when it comes to weather and beaches.  It doesn’t need to.  The 11th century Castle and Norman Cathedral, linked by Palace Green, have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986.  It was very fitting that at the recently staged Lumiere Festival, the Lindisfarne Gospels were projected onto the south face of the Cathedral.  The origins of today’s city can be traced back to AD995, when a group of monks from Lindisfarne chose this highly defensible “island on a hill” as the final resting place of St Cuthbert.

Legend of the Dun Cow on the South face of the Cathedral- credit Rebecca Kennison for Wikipedia

The River Wear surrounds Durham on three sides.  The place name derives from Old English “dun”, a hill, and Norse “holme”, an island.  The Legend of the Dun Cow is depicted in a carving on the Cathedral’s south face, adjoining Dun Cow Lane, known to be one of the earliest streets in the city.  The story goes that the homeless monks carrying the coffin were mysteriously brought to a halt, unable to move, close by the present site of the city.  After 3 days of prayer and fasting, St Cuthbert appeared to one of the monks with the instruction that he be “carried to Dun Holm”.  The whereabouts of this place was unknown to the monks, but a milkmaid arrived later that day, and claimed to be searching for her “dun cow”, last seen at Dun Holm.  Recognising this as a sign of divine intervention, the monks suddenly were able to move the coffin, and follow her.

“Miner’s vests” in Durham Cathedral at Lumiere 2012

Today’s cathedral is an awesome space, usually busy with tourists, unlike the modest one erected by the monks.  St Cuthberts relics are still enshrined here, as are the bones of St Bede the Venerable.

Castle Keep and Dun Cow Lane- credit Robin Widdison for Wikipedia

Durham Castle is a fine example of the motte and bailey style favoured by the Normans.  In continuous use for over 900 years, it remains the only castle in the UK never to have been breached.   Now home to Durham University, guided castle tours lasting 45 minutes can be arranged, afternoons in term-time and mornings during vacations.

Durham Traditional Christmas Festival, the first weekend in December, sees Durham get in party mode. (free on Friday, admission charge to the marquees and craft fair on Palace Green, Saturday and Sunday)  Children’s events take place at the World Heritage Visitor Centre on Owengate over the weekend, with falconry and balloon making as well as the more traditional reindeer.  The children’s lantern procession takes place on Saturday afternoon, and Christmas Carols in the cathedral are always a bit special. www.durhamchristmasfestival.com

Cathedral in the snow

Despite its heritage and historical buildings, Durham is not a stuffy place.  The student population keeps it young and lively, and also keeps the prices down in the rich variety of cafes and restaurants.  There’s an indoor market off Market Place, for “cheap as chips”, and an Oxfam bookstore over 3 storeys, where I love to curl up in a corner and browse.

My food of choice tends to be Italian and over the years I’ve thoroughly enjoyed La Spaghettata, upstairs at 66 Saddler St.  The décor is quite individual and the menu extensive.  Quite different but also a favourite, especially if you can get the window seat to spy on shoppers down below, is De Medici on Elvet Bridge.  When it comes to cafes you really are spoilt but I especially like The Almshouses on Palace Green, surrounded by lovely university buildings.  There’s always a choice of homemade soups and oh those cakes and puddings!  The artwork on the walls is good for conversation too.

If you’ve walked through the cathedral and cloisters, don’t neglect the Dean and Chapter area at the reverse.  It’s one of the loveliest and most peaceful spots in Durham.

Durham Regatta- credit Wikipedia

The river can be pretty peaceful too.  Coxless fours glide effortlessly past, while less coordinated efforts come from the families in rowing boats.  The river truly comes to life in June when Durham Regatta provides enormous enjoyment for everyone.   Best riverside moment this year just has to be the vapour “waterfall” streaming from Kingsgate Bridge during “Lumiere”.  Splash! by Peter Lewis of Canada provided all the magic you could want.  I loved that lone canoeists roamed the water at sunset, waiting for the moment when they could paddle “through the waterfall”.

"Splash" created by Peter Lewis of Canada

Durham is a compact, easily walkable city, with excellent bus and rail transport links.  For drivers there are 3 Park and Ride facilities, making life easy.  My husband says not to tell you, but we always park for free, by the playground at the top of Wharton Park, and walk down past the viaduct.  It’s a steep climb back up though.

So there you have it- the Durham I know and love.  As good a place to do your Christmas shopping as anywhere you could find.

“Lumiere 2011” was special. You can read more about it in  https://restlessjo.wordpress.com/2011/11/20/celebrating-light-with-durham/

Celebrating light with Durham

The Waterfall

The Waterfall

When a city you know and love hosts an international event you just have to be there.  Never mind if the result is a black eye.  It’s called suffering for your art?

Durham Cathedral

Durham Cathedral and the weir

In late Autumn’s fading light we wandered along the riverbank awaiting the moment of revelation.  So many times we had strolled these ancient cobbled streets but this evening something strange was in the air.

Flying man

Flying man

He and his many friends hovered above us, saying little but seeing much.  Slowly the light faded, the sense of anticipation building.

Cathedral spires

Cathedral spires

Durham County Council had worked overtime to provide a festival guide with a route map around the 35 installations.  As 6.30 approached we joined the shuffling crowds on Palace Green to await a spectacle that would stay with us forever.  The street lights dimmed and we collectively held our breath.

Flushed red

The Cathedral face flushed with red

Music crashed into the hush and a flood of red illuminated the front portal of the Cathedral.  Wave upon wave of images followed, their theme the Lindisfarne Gospels.

The Gospels So hard to capture, without specialist equipment, the drama unrolling before us.  “Crown of light” its formal title, had been recalled by popular demand from the previous Lumiere Festival in 2009 and it was very easy to see why.  I cannot begin to do it justice here but maybe you can gain some appreciation from www.lumieredurham.co.uk

When silence descended again it was time to set off on a voyage of discovery.  The street lights remained off to maximise the effects, which made negotiating the riverbank a little tricky.  But the views were spectacular.

The snow dome

The snow dome

One of our favourites had to be “I love Durham” in the Market Place.  The Marquess of Londonderry statue was captive inside an enormous snow dome, the like of which I have never seen.  I couldn’t conceive how such a thing was possible and the magic of the whirling snow flakes enthralled the crowd.

So much more was there to see.  We lingered beneath the towering illuminated viaduct as trains slipped across, seeming not to wish to disturb the soundtrack to the patterns created on the side wall of the North Rd Methodist Church.  Up the steps to the Gala Theatre, head swivelling to take it all in.

And then disaster befell.  My eye was caught by “60 second Cathedral”, a Polish projection of skydivers on the Claypath Library.  Triumphantly I gestured to my partner, before tumbling head over heels over a concrete block.

Thank you to the people who scrambled to put me back together again.  Michael looked more dazed than I felt!  I was just gratefull that my fall had come at the end of our  tour and we could go home with the memories intact.