Writing

A is for Alphabet, and also for Aunts

The Polish alphabet (alfabet polski) has 32 letters:

 a  ą  b  c  ć  d  e  ę  f  g  h  i  j  k  l  ł  m 

n  ń  o  ó  p  r  s  ś  t  u  w  y  z  ź  ż

plus these sounds represented by 2 letters

ch  cz  dz  dź  dż  rz sz   

A bit tricky looking, isn’t it?  It has most of the letters of the English alphabet and a few extras with tails, dots or slashes.  Q ,V and X are not used in Polish except in foreign words or as symbols.  And don’t be fooled- even the letters that look like our good old English ones don’t necessarily sound the same, i.e ‘c’ has a ‘ts’ sound and ‘w’ is pronounced ‘v’.

And then the fun begins- speaking the language.  The pronunciation is half the battle, and I’m still in heavily armed combat.  The BBC has an excellent website if you fancy having a play around. http://www.bbc.co.uk/languages/polish/soap/alphabet.shtml

My story starts with an Aunt

Aunt Anna

When I first looked at her photograph, 5 years ago this month, I felt a jolt of recognition.  It was not unlike looking at myself in the mirror, but maybe a few years down the line.  I was already 57 but had never met her- had not even known that she was still alive.  But it was due to her persistence, and refusal to believe that my Dad was dead, that we finally came together as a family.

Aunt Anna- I was named for her.  I have a huge lump in my throat writing this as she died on 25.11.09.  All those years of waiting and then so little time together- but we made it count.  My lasting memories of her: regally enthroned at the table at the Hotel Wierzynek, looking every inch the Polish Royalty for which this hotel was designed; more simply pottering about at home, setting the table for food and chattering, chattering.  Her hands were often painful but she used them expressively.  I was so new in the language that it was all I could do to nod dumbly and smile.

Dad, Anna and me

Dad, Anna and her son Adam, at home

Dad, Aunt Anna and grandson Lukasz, Hotel Wierzynek

Ciotka Anna (Aunt Anna) was bound to steal the show, but I have another surviving aunt.  Ciotka Lusia (given name Otylia but always known to me as Lusia) lives in a beautifully modernised bungalow on part of the farm land originally owned by my grandfather.  He and my grandmother had terribly hard lives and thinking about them makes my Dad sad.  I never met them as he was taken from the farm by Germans at just 15 and never saw them again.

Ciotka Lusia is a joy.  Always close to the land, she has a huge plot which until quite recently she managed to cultivate, growing all her own vegetables.  Ciotka Lusia’s potatoes are legendary!  Her daughter Teresa and granddaughter Edyta live with her and help to share the work.  Edyta is a beautiful teenager now but when we first met she was a shy child, cuddling her rabbits.

Dad and Aunt Lusia in her garden

Aunt Lusia, Teresa and Edyta

Edyta with one of the many rabbits

Some of the original farm is intact but much of the land has been divided between the children and lovely family homes built on it.  No doubt they will be the subject of a later post- it’s a big story.  For now I need to conclude with the fact of my other aunts, Urszula, Krysia and Sabina, all of whom died before Dad could be reunited with them.  So many family photos I have looked at.

The whole of Dad’s story (in brief) is told here:  https://restlessjo.wordpress.com/2011/10/24/exploring-the-polish-connection/

My personal A -Z of Poland

My personal A-Z of Poland

There are folks out there who’ll think I’m greedy, or just a glutton for punishment- I’m not sure which?  Couldn’t help myself, I just had to raise a hand in the air and shout “me, me!” when the prospect of a personal A-Z of Poland came along, even though I had already committed to a Portuguese A-Z.

You see, the Polish journey for me is a relatively new and very special one.  It’s just 5 years ago this month that I discovered that I had any Polish family at all, apart from my Dad, but I’ve since acquired loads!  I have already written about this in https://restlessjo.wordpress.com/2011/10/24/exploring-the-polish-connection/ and it is for me a very emotional subject.  It would be a privilege to share a little of what I have learned about Poland, and my wonderful Polish family, here in these pages.

I wasn’t encouraged to learn the Polish language as a child- Dad was busy integrating into the English community.  I have sincerely regretted my own lack of application since then, and have struggled mightily to be able to communicate with older family members.  The youth are great, and go out of their way to speak English to me.  So, a few Polish phrases may slip in now and then, but I will be writing in English, sadly.

I’m itching to get started, but first must give credit to Julie Dawn Fox, who developed the original idea of “A personal A-Z of…” with her post on Portugal  http://juliedawnfox.com/2012/01/10/a-personal-a-z-of-portugal/

In the spirit of this challenge I’d be more than happy for bloggers out there to write their own A-Z, in English, Polish or whatever your native language is.

Can’t wait to post this then I can move on to “A is for…”  See you soon!

A is for Alte

Why Alte?  It wasn’t an easy decision because here in the Algarve I also love the border town of Alcoutim, pretty Alvor with its wide estuary, and the lovely island of Armona.  I expect we’ll visit them later in this A-Z.  I’ll sneak them in somewhere.

Casa d’Alte- sounds like home?

The images that you see everywhere of the Algarve are beaches (of course!), and golf courses, but there’s so much more to the Algarve.  Alte represents that other Algarve- the world away from the coasts, with natural springs and lush greenery.  I’ve heard Alte described as the prettiest village in the Algarve, and I wouldn’t disagree.

We first passed through en route for Monchique 7 years ago, and were charmed by the place.  Coming from the Eastern Algarve we had taken the scenic route along the N124, passing pretty Salir, the endless cork trees and imposing Rocha de Pena.  We were in search of the natural springs that we’d heard about, with very little idea of what that would entail.  On that occasion we saw just a fraction, but the idyll of ducks beneath the bridge, and the azulejo tiled pictures at Fonte Pequena (little spring) delighted us.  The gardens and nearby Fonte Pequena Inn are dedicated to local poet, Candido Guerreiro, whose work is displayed by the springs.

Tranquil Fonte Pequena

Azulejos decorate the springs at Fonte Pequenal

A return visit in May 2009 had us wishing we’d brought swimwear.  It was unseasonably warm and we were amazed at the volume of water in the “stream”.  A lovely area for picnics this.  And then there’s the village itself, with its winding cobbled streets, some of them quite steep.  Everywhere is whitewash and bougainvillea.  Shops and cafes are strewn about the village, a welcome source of browsing and shade in the Summer.

Bougainvilea rules!

Oh for a swimsuit! Too hot at Fonte Grande.

Can’t stay out here much longer!

As with most Portuguese villages, the church lies at its heart.  Igreja Matriz de Alte, devoted to Our Lady of the Assumption, dates from the 13th century.  It was built at the direction of the wife of the Second Lord of Alte, to give thanks for his safe return from the Crusades.  The vault is sublimely decorated with azulejos.

Igreja Matriz

I’ve not yet had the privilege of attending the Folklore Festival and Wedding Ceremony for which Alte is most famous.  It takes place on the second Saturday in August.  Bridal Party and numerous folklore groups parade through the streets, culminating in a toast to the “happy couple” at Fonte Grande (large spring) and a traditional wedding feast.

A Folklore Festival is also staged on May Day and in 2012 I managed to be there.  For a while I didn’t think it was going to happen- the skies opened and the rain bounced for almost an hour.  Patience paid off in the end, and the procession made their way across the lavender strewn cobbles to the stage at Fonte Grande.

Fonte Pequena in May

The littlest ones start the dancing off onstage at Fonte Grande

Then they were a little older

Skirts began to twirl, feet to stamp

Quickly, before it rains again!

Young and old combining expertise

Numerous other celebrations take place in Alte throughout the year, including Carnaval, this year on February 21st.  Confetti is available to throw at the passing floats.

A full list of events can be found on  http://www.alteuncovered.com/events.aspx  together with a lot of useful parking details and opening hours.

This is the first in a series of posts, related to Julie Dawn Fox’s Personal A-Z Challenge. There are links in the logo in this post and in the sidebar to take you to the main site, where you can happily read for hours.

Just to get you started, how about:

http://algarveblog.net/2012/01/12/a-is-for-the-algarve/

http://handsinportugal.wordpress.com/2012/01/12/personal-a-z-of-portugal-a-is-for-anniversary/

http://sami-colourfulworld.blogspot.com/2012/01/to-z-of-australia-is-for-australia.html

http://juliedawnfox.com/2012/01/12/b-is-for-beirao-licor-beirao/

My next task is to start my A-Z of Poland.  See you there!

Six word Saturday


            Highs and lows-what a week!

Started the week on a real high with a Liebster Blog Award. (wow!)  Then came the funeral of a dear not-so-old friend.  Since then I have yo-yo’d through the week, with the potential of paid writing and new projects, tears at a nursing home, and the frustrations of my limitations on WordPress.  But I got through, with a little help from my friends.

Lets’s hope for more balance next week.

It’s raining awards! Ok, so I’m exaggerating a little bit.

It’s pretty exciting though, isn’t it?  Especially when you’ve spent the day beating yourself up for being a technological waste of space.  I was gazing hopelessly at my Widgets, just knowing there was a way to put a link into my sidebar, when that little sing-song sound of an incoming email took me back to my Inbox.

I don’t suppose Meg of Meg Travels http://megtraveling.com/ will ever know the joy she bequeathed on me with this award.  I have been happily following her travels hither and thither, and suddenly she’s made me a recipient of the Leibster Blog Award.   Thank you so much!

Is it Awards time of year, do you think?  I only know I’m very grateful.  Maybe I’m not just writing for myself after all? One of the truly wonderful things about blog writing is the warmth and support that comes to you from the community.  Yes, I’d still write my travel diaries, but it’s the response that comes back that makes blog writing addictive.  I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everybody who has “like”d or left comments on my blogs- you guys are awesome!

The Liebster Award- I didn’t take German at school but I understand that Liebster means dearest- isn’t that lovely?  It’s a way of encouraging relative newcomers, with less than 200 followers, to spread their wings.  Lucky me!

As a recipient I need to:

1. Say thank you so much to Meg at http://megtraveling.com/2012/01/08/the-liebster-blog-award/ and congratulate her on her own well-deserved award.

2. Link back to her blog http://megtraveling.com/.  It’s a pleasure.

3. Nominate 5 new people, whose blogs I have enjoyed, to receive this award:

http://algarveblog.net/  Almost my first introduction to the network of bloggers, Alyson has been amazing in her support.  Not only that but she writes excellent, finely detailed and researched blogs from her adoptive home in Ferragudo, the Algarve.

http://davidohall.wordpress.com/  David is a fellow “monkey hanger” (native of Hartlepool in the north east of England) but I’d never heard of him till I came across his blog.  I fell a little in love with his photographs, and his gentle sense of humour.

http://globetrottingforfood.wordpress.com/  I’m quite a reluctant cook, but I love the enthusiasm of Ashkitty.  Good place to look for some foodie ideas.

http://bananabatman.wordpress.com/  Another photographer David, but with very different content.  Like me he’s struggling to get a grip on technology but his photos speak volumes.

http://purecomplex.com/  Kay has a young, fun-loving style and her content is great- fashion, food, art and architecture.  Something for everyone.

So there you have it- I’m sure you’ll enjoy reading these blogs as much as I have, and I’m very happy to “share the love”.

Just remains for me now to put the award logo in my sidebar.  Watch this space!

P.S Dunnit!!!

P.P.S Don’t look now but I forgot to notify the people I’ve passed the award on to!  I’m on it!

Six Word Saturday

                               

                      Signed up, all set to play!

 

Sand City, FIESA, Pera, Algarve

http://www.showmyface.com/2008/01/six-word-saturdays.html

It seemed straightforward when I decided to follow Alyson Sheldrake’s lead and take part in Six Word Saturday.http://thethoughtpalette.co.uk/six-word-saturday/  Unfortunately I’m not very familiar with the formatting process on WordPress and a simple idea has taken me 3 hours to complete!  And I still haven’t managed to show the “Six Word Saturday” banner!  Will I be disqualified? Maybe I’ll be faster next week, or will I just spend my whole Saturday on 6 words.  Did somebody say “life is for learning”? 

My A – Z of Travel

Life’s good sometimes, isn’t it?  I was just recovering from being awarded the ABC Award (Awesome Blog Content) by lovely Alyson Weldrake of http://thethoughtpalette.co.uk/abc-award/, when Lucy Dodsworth, of ontheluce.com, another favourite blog, passed me this challenge.  Well, I have a lot to live up to, but I get to revisit some really happy memories.  Then I pass it on and take time out to read all those other A-Z’s- pure pleasure!  So, here goes:

A : Age at which you went on your first trip abroad:

My Mum’s idea of a holiday was a cottage near Scarborough, so trips abroad didn’t figure in my childhood.  My first ever bid for “freedom” was aged 21, when, quite pregnant with my daughter, I could see the world slipping away from me and booked myself solo on a flight to Paris.  It took me 40+ years to return but I managed to spend my Silver Wedding anniversary in the gardens at Giverny, and Versailles. (my husband is a garden designer, so he was easily persuaded)

B : Best foreign beer you’ve had and where:

Truthfully I’m not much of a one for beer.  Occasionally, after a long hot day, one hits the spot.  You wouldn’t go with one of my recommendations though.

Beer in Turkey

Can’t dispute photographic evidence- Turkish beer?

C : Cuisine : 

Probably Italian, but I’m quite versatile and will try most things.  Could quite easily become vegetarian.  Not sushi please, and never try to make me eat any of those spicy sausage, chourico-types.  Big shout up for Polish pierogi and soups, (my Dad would be proud), and I like a bit of spice.

D : Destinations, favourite, least favourite, and why:

Ponte Romana at Tavira

Anyone who knows me will know that I have a second home in the Algarve and that I am passionate about Portugal as a destination.  For me it has everything, from glorious beaches to stunning sierras, a fascinating history and a wealth of places to explore, many of which I have yet to reach.  Least favourite?  Wouldn’t really want to pin that on anywhere specific, that’s a bit unkind.  I’ll just say that I’m a Scorpio and anywhere that doesn’t have water nearby, I struggle with.  Lakes and mountains are great, but not fussy on flat open spaces.  

E : Event you experienced abroad that made you say “wow”:

Festa dos Tabuleiros

Festa dos Tabuleiros- the procession

“Wow” in a good way?  The Festa dos Tabuleiros in Tomar last July was pretty special.  The event is only held once every 4 years and when you see the effort that goes into it you can well understand why.  Given my love of boats and water, the Tall Ships Races have great pulling power for me too.  I totally loved having my home town Hartlepool, in North East England, host the final leg last year, and am hoping to make it to Cadiz in July to see them again- breathtaking!

Dewaruci

Dewaruci- one of my Favourite Tall Ships

F : Favourite mode of transportation :

Everyone loves trains.  Me too, but I have to say that I do love flying.  Not the boring waiting about, and the confined space and recycled air on board, but that awesome experience of looking down at my world.  Torture for me is one of those really cloudy flights that you sometimes get- zero visibility.  Nightmare!  Once we start to taxi along the runway I put on my specs and prepare to glue my nose to the window.  (I’m no fun if I haven’t got a window seat)  Love trying to identify which part I’m overflying (stunning views of Porto once) and I always mean to travel with a detailed map on my knee, but usually forget!

G : Greatest feeling while travelling :

Anticipation!  I just love it when I’m heading for somewhere new.

The prettiest little Greek church?

H : Hottest place you’ve travelled to :

Haven’t been to any of the world’s truly hot places, and most of my experiences have been European but I can remember melting in Venice once (worth it, of course and I’ve been back twice in cooler temperatures).  The Samaria Gorge in Crete wasn’t exactly cool, and I always seemed to toil up to the top of a Greek Island in heat, no matter what time of day I set off!  Terrible planning.

Hot in the Samaria Gorge

I : Incredible service you’ve experienced and why :

I’m going local with this one- local to Tavira, that is!  We have a lovely little riverfront bar, called Anazu.  From the moment we first set foot in there 9 years ago, Paula, her husband and Luis have made us welcome.  There’s always a smile, and an enquiry after the family.  Two glasses of port appear in front of us unsummoned.  The cares of the world just roll away.  We’re home again.

J : Journey that took the longest :

Hmmh, that would be the first trip to America.  We checked into Newcastle airport, only to be told to hang onto our cases as we were being transferred by coach to Manchester.  Strike action was afoot and bodies littered the concourse when we did get there.  Many wearying hours spent at Manchester, we arrived in the States at entirely the wrong time of day to pick up the hire car and head out into the dark with a sketchy bit of paper showing our destination.  “You’re the navigator” said my tired and irritable husband, trying to fathom junctions and overhead signs.  Happy days!

K : Keepsake from your travels :

Postcards for me too (can they be an addiction?) but I am often to be found pocketing shells and stones from some of the lovely beaches I’ve wandered on.  I have a wonderfully creative daughter who endeavoured to use them up by making me jewellery Christmas presents this year.

Shell necklace

Shell necklace

L : Let-down sight, where and why :

St Wolfgang in the sunshine

St Wolfgang, in the sunshine

It was clear and pleasant when we left the lakeside at St Wolfgang to rack and pinion our way up to the peaks.  Alas, when we got there the promised spectacular mountain views had “disappeared” in thick, cold, Alpine fog.

M : Moment when you fell in love with travel :

Afraid I’ve always been restless- must be in the genes.  At 18 I left home and friends to live in London and I explored that city to within an inch of its life!  With prescious little money in my pocket, I walked till I couldn’t any more.  Love the city still, though I’m more for the quiet life these days.  My lady friends and I made a celebratory visit there last August (coincided with the riots, of course).  Oh, did we have fun!

Tea at the Ritz

Tea at the Ritz

N  : Nicest hotel you’ve stayed in :

Sadly, don’t do posh hotels in the main.  We usually travel as cheaply as possible.  A couple are memorable; notably Hotel Guadeloupe, which was ideally placed for the Alhambra; Solar de Monfalim in Evora, such a gracious Portuguese mansion in the most atmospheric of cities; and a lovely family-owned small hotel in Bardolino on the shores of Lake Garda, whose name escapes me (it WAS 18years ago, but the pasta was amazing).

Hotel Solar Monfalim, Evora

O : Obsession : what are you obsessed with taking photos of when you travel :

Boats and water mainly:

Turkish Gulet

Mooring at Kas

The harbour at Fethiye

Or anything I want to retain as a memory:

The backgammon ace!

P : Passport stamps, how many and from where :

Not many I don’t suppose, but I’ve visited Austria, Belgium, Canaries, Corfu, Crete, Croatia, Cyclades, Denmark, France, Greek Mainland, Italy, Madeira, Poland, Portugal, Rhodes, Spain, Turkey, the USA, Zante  (alphabetically, of course).  The wish list is huge.

Q : Quirkiest attraction you’ve visited and where :

Prezzemolo

Parsley the Dragon

I can remember following a green dragon called Prezzemolo (Parsley) in a procession at Gardaland in Italy many years ago.  The things we’ve done to keep our son amused!  Also in Italy, Il Vittoriale, high above Gardone Riviera, sports a large battleship, Puglia, in it’s gardens.  Definitely landlocked!

Puglia, Il Vittoriale

Stand by for blast off! On board Puglia

R : Recommended sight, event or experience :

Hotel Coronado

Hotel Coronado-not a great shot,but what a destination!

Where do you start?  One that stays with me and I would love to revisit with more time to spare is San Diego Bay.  On the beach by Hotel Coronado I had a Marilyn Monroe moment, and the views out across the water from the restaurants were superb.  Or incredible Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore- water AND gardens, the perfect confection.  So different, but I was also wholeheartedly in love with Warsaw’s Stare Miasto- impossible to believe that so much of it was reconstruction after the Nazis raized it to the ground.

Isola Bela, Lake Maggiore

Stare Miasto, Warsaw

S : Splurge ; something you have no problem forking out money for when travelling :

If I can find somewhere with a lovely view I’m happy to sit indefinitely with a glass or two of wine.

Porto Moniz, Madeira

A smiling husband in Cordoba

Real Alcazhar, Seville

T : Touristy thing you’ve done :

Breakfast with Dale

Have to confess to absolutely loving the Disney parades.  I was ecstatic to have Buzz Lightyear kiss my hand, and Chip and Dale- who wouldn’t want to take them home?

U : Unforgettable travel memory :

Gulet sunset

Gulet sunset

Gulet cruise from Bodrum to Fethiye- a little strange in that it was a late honeymoon, but we couldn’t afford to do it at any other time.  Certainly we weren’t sure if we wanted to share with 10 other people and 3 crew, but it was a fabulous holiday, despite my being stung on the bum by a wasp.

V : Visas ; how many and for where :

Easy answer- none.  Have led a sheltered life!

W :  Wine, best glass of wine while travelling and where :

Welcome to Obidos! The gateway

Obidos. O Conquistador restaurant.  We were taking a breather in a long day’s travelling and opted to eat before returning to the fun of the Medieval Fair.  The restaurant was quiet as everyone was at the fair and the owner was wonderfully relaxed.  The wine was served in earthenware tumblers and was as good as any I’ve ever tasted.  Portuguese Dao and Alentejan wines are generally superb.

X : eXcellent view and from where :

So many it’s an impossible choice but I’ll go with the view of the River Guadiana down to the Alqueva Dam, from the turrets of Monsaraz in Portugal.

A grey day at Monsaraz- imagine it in sunshine

Y : Years spent travelling :

Embarrassingly 40+.  Wish it had been constant though.  Much of my travelling is done fairly locally, but it’s all world, and so much to enjoy.

Z : Zealous sports fans and where :

I’m not a huge sports enthusiast but I rarely miss Nadal playing tennis (on TV).  My husband and son are passionate about football and never pass up an opportunity to see a live match.  Las Palmas on Tenerife was a rowdy and memorable one but the Portuguese take some beating when it comes to “excitability” for a normally calm and courteous race.

I’ve really enjoyed doing this.  Good old Memory Lane.  Now, who else would appreciate this challenge?

http://apetcher.wordpress.com/ Have Bag/ Will Travel

http://mecwrites25.wordpress.com/  La Chica Writes

http://megtraveling.com/  Meg Travels

http://shipscooksstuff.wordpress.com/  Shipscook Stuff

http://kimberlyblagrove.wordpress.com/  The Nappy Wanderer

An Award!

Just as I was logging off to head for a nice lazy bath full of bubbles with my book last night, something rather wonderful popped up in my Inbox! I had been selected by Alyson Weldrake of thethoughtpalette.co.uk/abc-award/as a recipient of her newly created award for Awesome Blog Content.

Wow! It was like receiving a belated Christmas/Thanksgiving present and New Year greetings all rolled into one.  I shared the excitement with my husband, then tum-ti-tum-d my way up the stairs.  My first ever blogging award!  I dashed back down the stairs again (MUST get a bungalow one of these years!), dropped a kiss on his head, and filled a glass with white wine to sashay back up the stairs.

Woke up this morning and checked my Inbox again, and yes, it’s still there!  My very own ABC Award.

Now don’t get me wrong- I am not the sole recipient of this honour.  Reading down Alyson’s list I realised that I was in very fine company indeed.  Part of the delight of this is that I now have an invitation to meet other bloggers that I would not necessarily have found on my own initiative.  Believe me, I’ve dabbled in “social media” in an attempt to find like minded people- not easy!  Mostly all I want to do is share my joy in writing about the things I love.

Enough rambling! I have a contractual obligation to fulfill.  I humbly accept this award Alyson, bless your kind heart!

Here comes my Alphabet which reveals a few things about me:

A       Award-winner!                                        Nadal

B       Blogger                                                  Optimist

C       Courteous                                               Poland

D       Daughter                                                Quarrelsome

E        Easter                                                    Restless

F        Faithful                                                   Scribbler

G        Greedy                                                   Tavira

H        Hopeful                                                   Uncoordinated

I         Italy                                                       Venezuela

J         Johanna                                                  Wanderlust

K         Kind                                                       X-asperating

L          Loving                                                   Yellow

M         Mother                                                   Zante

I am very happy to pass on this award to some of the people who have inspired me:

susanwritesprecise

www.titabuds.com

www.thetravelbunny.wordpress.com

www.ontheluce.com

http://malloryontravel.com

and will be notifying them tomorrow with a clear head.  Being technologically challenged I’ve struggled a bit to get this up and running.  Hope I don’t disappoint, Alyson.  Again, many thanks!

P.S Don’t know if you can have a P.S on blogs but I seem to need one! As I was scampering to get out of the door last night I failed to nominate a couple of blogs I really love and am hereby rectifying this!

Kana’s Chronicles

Devouring Scotland

This man’s journey

Chasing the Byron connection? Windswept at Seaham

Rough seas at Seaham Harbour - copyright Ian Britton at Freefoto.com

Life is strange sometimes, isn’t it?  It was one of those “blowing a hooligan” days, but the sky was blue and bright and I just couldn’t stay home.  As always, it was the lure of the sea that pulled me up the coast to Seaham.  It’s a place I don’t often visit, but whenever I do it seems to have improved.  Over the years it’s had to pull itself up by the bootstraps.

Revitalised Terrace Green, Seaham

The Durham coastline is rugged in the extreme and Seaham Harbour was hacked out of these cliffs to provide transport for locally mined coal.  Seaham’s deep mines reached out more than 3 miles beneath the North Sea.  Seacoal and waste despoiled these beaches as far as the eye could see when the last mine finally closed in 1992.  Almost 20 years later, the sea has washed and groomed them back to a semblance of their old selves.

Of course, man has pitched in to help with the repair.  The success of this is evident in the Coastal Footpath which now graces the clifftops.  At numerous points along the coast road it’s easy to drop down onto wide sweeping stretches of coastline.

Seaham itself has a vast panorama.  At the southerly end the lighthouse juts out into the harbour.  Sometimes, returning home by train from Newcastle, I’ve witnessed the sea battering its way in over the harbour wall.  Today was not so ferocious, but I had to lean into the wind.

Lower promenade

From North Terrace you can descend to a lengthy promenade which hugs the cliffs.  Not pretty in itself, still it gives shelter from the wind and the chance to observe the nooks and crannies of the giants above.  Dogs foolishly bark at the waves and small wellie-wearers enjoy the rock pools.

Seaham Hall Beach Car Park Sculpture

At the northern end I clamber back to the cliff top to admire the Seaham Hall Beach Car Park sculpture.  Shaped like the layout of St Mary’s Church, it’s one of a number of sculptures which pay tribute to the town’s heritage.

Vane Tempest Sculpture

The Vane Tempest Sculpture is a striking piece of art work, depicting the skyline of the former Vane Tempest Colliery.

The upper promenade leads back to Terrace Green.  Opposite, at 17A North Terrace, is my favourite coffee stop in Seaham, “Leaf, Bark and Berries”.  An intriguing mix of food emporium, café and furniture shop, the homemade quiches are excellent and I always enjoy a browse at the crafts and cabinetry on display.  Using the sizeable properties to their full potential seems to be a Seaham trait, as I noticed that the newer “Black Truffle Coffee Shop” on Terrace Green boasted a boutique at the rear.  Must check it out, next time.

Leaf, Bark and Berries- cafe-cum-browsing opportunity

Looking back at my subject, you could be forgiven for wondering what all this has to do with Lord Byron.  On 2nd January, 1815 he married Anna Isabella Milbanke, the daughter of the owner of Seaham Hall.  The marriage took place at the Hall rather than at nearby St Mary’s, and was thought by many to be doomed for this reason.  Whatever the cause, they were to last only a year.  A child, Augusta Ada, was born on 2nd December.  She never knew her father, but at her own request was buried next to him in the family vault at Hucknall Torknard Church, Nottingham.  Which, completely coincidentally, brought me full circle with my last post on Byron’s ancestral home, Newstead Abbey.

Seaham Hall today is a very grand and successful hotel, the only obvious connection, Lord Byron’s Walk. www.seaham-hall.co.uk

Many more details of history and heritage can be found on www.seaham.com from whom I have borrowed a number of photographs.  The most recent addition to the town sculptures sits beside the new Byron Place Shopping Centre.

The Brothers- waitin t'gan down

Life as it was in Seaham, a town proud of it’s industrial past, yet reaching out to the future.

Byron’s Newstead Abbey

This weekend was epic for me.  I always love my pre-Christmas visit to my daughter in Nottingham, but this year we did something very special.  We visited Byron’s ancestral home, Newstead Abbey, decked out in all its Christmas finery.

Gates

The gates thrown wide in welcome

The presence of the poet, scholar and freedom fighter, not to mention lover, looms large in this beautiful historic house.  Certainly he was “a bit of a character” and the library is full of texts and tributes to his many escapades.  He lived at Newstead Abbey between 1808 and 1814, but debt finally forced him to sell.  Since then it has been variously renovated and restored by its owners.

The gatehouse

The gatehouse

The pretty pink Pronto bus, en route from Nottingham’s Victoria Centre Bus Station to Mansfield, deposits you right by the entrance.  The charming gatekeepers lodge is just a foretaste of what is to come, as the cheery attendant in the ticket booth is quick to point out.  First though, quite a long walk through the thickly forested grounds.  You can turn off the main drive to follow a winding woodland walk through the trees.  Children would delight in the hide and seek potential of this, though I was concentrating on not upending on the leaves.  In Spring the rhododendrons and camellias must sing with colour.

Approaching the lake

Approaching the lake

Lakeside

Just as you begin to tire you see ahead the drive’s ending, and soon an enormous lake.  Ducks and geese squabble about, while a disdainful peacock awaits your admiration.  On your left, proudly erect, the magnificent Abbey.

West Front

West Front of the Abbey

The West Front dates back to 1274, and is the original façade of the old priory church.  Also intact are the lovely medieval cloisters.  A more romantic setting would be hard to find.  No wonder it inspired Byron’s poetry.

The stairwell’s beautiful floral display

Step through the heavy door and your eyes are drawn to a grand flight of stairs.  Heraldic painting enlivens the ceiling.  If, like me, you’ve arrived on a Christmas opening day, you’ll be lured upwards by the sound of fine voices.  A costumed young lady and gent perform everything from carols to swing, their obvious enjoyment  bringing a smile to my face.  The wood-panelled Great Hall is very grand indeed.

The singers

Our entertainment in the Great Hall

Reluctantly I move on, the voices following.  A dazzling sequence of rooms present themselves.  The handiwork of the college students who have festooned the Abbey with gilded flora and foliage is a beautiful addition to this festive season.  Opulent and exquisite furnishings, Byron’s very own bed, each treasure follows the next.  My favourite, the Japanese room, has stunning cranes gliding across the walls.

Grand Salon

Grand Salon with gilded hydrangea heads in a stunning arrangement

Fabulous table top

Fabulous table top

Grand Salon, grand furnishings

Grand Salon, grand furnishings!

Salon, table and tree

A little genteel reading and writing?

Rocking horse

The rocking horse

Japanese room

My favourite, the Japanese Room

Cranes

Cranes adorning the wood-panelled walls

In the Gothic Revival Library a poet and storyteller invites you to linger.  The cabinets are filled to the brim with Byron’s astounding past.

Library

Gothic Revival Library and the dazzling chandelier

Library book?

Craft in the Library

Finally there waits the most romantic of cloisters, and a peak into the chapel.  Between duties, Santa is more than happy to chat, adding his own snippets of information to your knowledge.  A quick turn in the bracing air of the cloisters garden and your visit is almost complete.

Lisa meets Santa- just a little blurred. Must be the sherry?

The chapel’s stained glass windows

Inside the chapel

Cloister gardens

Cloister gardens

Naturally there is a shop full of temptation- chutneys, sweets, toys and all things Byron.  Better still, around the corner the café waits.  I was ready for my smoked bacon and brie Panini.  My daughter chose the soup, mightily packed with mushrooms and chives, before indulging her sweet tooth with organic carrot cake.  I resisted the tiny mince pies and a glass of sherry as we still had far to go.  Bookings were being taken for Christmas Afternoon Tea, which sounded superb for £15, but any day of the week Traditional Afternoon Tea can be had for just £10.

The shop

Toys in the shop

One last floral display

One last floral display

300 acres of park and gardens are available for exploration, but the sun was low in the sky and I settled for a quick look through the waterfall.  The grounds are open year round, 9am till dusk, and on Sundays, house tours are available April to September.  For further details and special events www.mynottingham.gov.uk/newsteadabbey Two highly detailed videos will show you round the house if you can’t get there in person.

Lisa and the Abbey

Lisa- not blurred!

Through the waterfall

Through the waterfall

The waterfall

“Mad, bad and dangerous to know” he may well have been, but I truly enjoyed my visit to Byron’s former home.