Jo’s Monday walk : Santiago do Cacém

‘Where shall we go for our anniversary, hon?’  Greeted with the usual shrug and ‘anywhere you want’.  After 31 years I know he doesn’t mean this literally, and current circumstances are such that even I hesitated to suggest anywhere too exciting.  Chicago, Japan and the Isles of Scilly passed fleetingly through my mind, before I settled on a more practical choice, the Alentejo.  Not too far, in driving terms, from our Algarve home, and much of it, for us, still uncharted territory.

The Troia peninsula, just south of Setúbal, holds great appeal, but it’s high summer and the beach hotels are expensive and likely too busy.  So, pointing my nose in that general direction, I settled on slightly obscure but potentially interesting, Santiago do Cacém.  A castle and a church, perched high on a hill.  What could be better….?  Yes, that was the spouse’s reaction when he saw the height of the hill in question.  But we started slowly, chancing upon the TI, beautifully located in gardens, and with an adjoining café.

I freely admit that I had little idea of what else there might be to see, but the gentleman in the TI was very helpful.  We had already passed signs for the Roman ruins of Miróbriga, on the outskirts of town. Time to start a gentle ascent to the castle.  There’s nothing I like better than a meander through quirky streets of crumbling houses, shored up by their smart neighbours, and with a smattering of compelling street art.

A towering pink fire station, dangling laundry, a neglected church with chorus of cherubs and Manueline doorway, a square with pelourinho (or pillory) and magnificently rusted door handles.  Not a bad haul for a couple of streets.  And the tiny courtyard with the shrine to a beloved pet.

So many distractions, I had scarcely noticed the gradient of our climb but finally we reached the Castelo de Santiago do Cacém, built by the Moors.

Originally the castle had 10 square towers and semi-cylindrical turrets, externally defended by a barbican, some of which have survived.  The ancient church of Santiago is integrated into the south east wall.  I had forgotten that the castle, abandoned in the 1700s, had become the town’s cemetery in the 19th century.  Glancing through the archway I saw the tombs and hesitated, not wanting to be disrespectful.  The palace and gardens of the Condes de Avillez adjoin the castle, and for a while I wandered in their atmospheric shade.

Then realisation dawned, and we entered the grounds of the ruined castle.

Rarely have I been in a more serene and lovely place.  I wandered among the tombstones, marveling at the details, and then climbed to the castle walls.  A solitary caretaker was busy removing and tidying, and gave us a cheery wave.

Reluctantly I made my way back through the stone archway, but there was another treat to come.  The door to the Santiago Church was ajar, and I stepped quietly inside.  A lovely young woman beamed at me and gestured that I should come in and enjoy the beautiful surrounds.

The gilded wood carvings told of hours of craftsmanship.  We exchanged smiles again, behind our masks, complicit in our appreciation.  Heading downhill, there was still a colourful surprise in store.  An art gallery, maybe?  I wasn’t sure.

I hope you enjoyed today’s wander.  We had the best view from a hotel room that I can remember in quite some time, and we made it to the top of the hill.  Next week I’ll take you to Miróbriga and the Roman ruins.

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Thanks again everyone, for the appreciation and for keeping me company on my rambles.  Not too many walks to share this week, so please find time to visit.  And if you have a walk you’d like to share, feel free!

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Another week gone.  Halfway through an Algarve summer, where I sometimes feel the need to escape the heat.  Santiago do Cacém was rather a lovely place to do it.  Have a good week and see you next time!

140 comments

  2. What a lovely way to spend the day! In a church, on the hill – with the love of your life… recreating moments special 😍 on your special day! Sounds so perfect! Happy anniversary dear 💝 Awesome clicks too… Hope you had some good cake 🎂

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  4. Hi Jo, what a wonderful place to spend and celebrate your anniversary. Very special! Thanks for sharing your beautiful photos and memories. Hugs xx ✨😍

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  6. Oh wow! Love places like this. My mind tries to picture live when these places were vibrant with activity. Ahhhh …. I had to check where you are on the map. You are further south than I thought. Cheers to your location!

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    1. I don’t know if this place was ever vibrant with activity, Frank, but I have a fondness for sleepy little places with character. This did, in spades 🤗💕💕 Thanks for your lovely company!

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  9. I would have lost a piece of my heart there, Jo – exquisitely photographed as well. And a silent walk among tombstones is a moment of total harmony. Congrats.

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      1. It is. Glad you read the article…sorry that my edits and last comments fell out though. She ran into technical problems with my edits. But well, I think the other ladies made everything clear anyway!

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  10. I loved every bit of this quaint little place and your photos are fabulous as always. I particularly like the church interior, it’s gorgeous, and the little pet’s shrine is so sweet 🙂 Thanks for taking me along 🙂

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    1. The church photos came out better than I could have hoped, Eunice, and I knew you’d like the pet sanctuary. 🙂 🙂 We went there not really knowing what to expect but the town was full of character, and that’s what we love about Portugal. Thanks, hon!

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    1. I always have to choose, Carol, because then the fault is mine if it’s wrong 🙂 🙂 My ambitions for travel have always flown very much higher than his, but I’m happy to wander anywhere… so long as there’s a bit of blue sky 🙂

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  16. Increasingly, even before Covid, we find ourselves avoiding the tourist hotspots. As you demonstrate so vividly here, small towns with their own histories are every bit as rewarding – and much more peaceful. This looks a great choice for a special weekend. Do you know M & I have no idea when our wedding anniversary is? We can never remember the date, or how long we’ve been hitched! We’re still here though …

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    1. That’s amazing, Margaret, but it does mean that you can make every day special and the celebration that it should be 🙂 🙂 I’m sure Mick picked the ‘glorious 12th’ as an easy date to remember, not that either of us have ever been anywhere near a grouse shoot!

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      5. I’m a bit of a Christmas-Refuser too. As in all the ersatz jollity and consumerism. The French and Spanish understated Christmas is much more my style. I bet it’s like that in Portugal too.

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  19. Thank you, Jo. It was most gracious of you to take us along on this exquisite tour. It is like entering another world.
    A world where beauty and stillness resides.

    miriam

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