Art Deco Museum- copyright Mike Bradley
You can look forward to something too much, can’t you? You could definitely say that about our couple of days in Aveiro, back in July. The city almost made the itinerary on our Porto trip, a few years ago, but we opted for a day in Guimaraes instead. Aveiro seemed to warrant more time than that. I’d seen photos of the wonderfully painted barcos moliceiros that ride the canals, not to mention the candy striped houses at neighbouring Costa Nova. Both irresistible, in prospect.
A birthday is always a good excuse for a jaunt. It wasn’t mine, but that seldom stops me. I was surprised that he chose to drive us there, but it did add flexibility to the plans. And so we left the Algarve for the ‘cooler’ north. Except that the dial on the car read 36C when we arrived. Several degrees warmer than our sultry south. More of a surprise was the motorway, that ran parallel with the canal, right into the city and onward in a rush to the coast. Aveiro was much bigger than I had anticipated. Time to stow the car in the hotel garage and take to the streets. A canal boat with my name on it must be waiting out there.
No, not this one, but there actually was a lovely green boat, named Santa Joana. A sign, if ever there was, though the only certainty was that a boat ride would be taken, on the morrow. Wikipedia reveals that Santa Joana was, in fact, the daughter of King Afonso V, and spent her life in the convent in Aveiro. Meanwhile, a walk around the canal network seemed highly desirable.
The city rose to prominence on the strength of its salt production, stemming back to Roman times, and seaweed harvest. The moliço, or seaweed, was used as fertiliser before chemicals were developed for the purpose. The flat-bottomed gondolas were used to transport it across the lagoon. The silting up of the river in the 16th and 17th centuries hindered the trading of the seaport and led to the closure of the canals, and stagnation of the waters of the lagoon. The network of canals we see today were artificially constructed and opened in 1808, bringing prosperity back with them.
Canal Central is a grand sight! The graceful boats, with their highly accomplished crew of two- one steering and the other providing commentary and skipping nimbly onto the stern to signal manoeuvres- glide across the water in a serenade of colour and ceremony. Out past the Rossio park towards Canal das Piramides, and the salt pans, then under the bridge onto Canal de Sáo Roque. Old warehouses rub shoulders with modern developments here. A sleek bit of turning, and some hand signals guide the vessels through the narrowest of openings. Fascinating to watch how well they coordinate their efforts. In high season 25/28 boats ply their carefully orchestrated trade. Part way along Sáo Roque a new bridge was under construction. A gravity- defying curve of metal suspended over the water, I lingered over the reflections.
Much of the architecture is very beautiful. A combination of art deco and those so Portuguese azulejo tiles. An atmospheric fish market and a plethora of restaurants, huddled in back streets. A cathedral of contrasts- wonderful old chorister seats, in dark wood carved with African masks; an antique pipe organ and its shiny new counterpart. Churches, of course. Huge Dom Pedro park, with its golden yellow villas and Monet bridges. Two things not to miss : The Art Deco Museum, beside Canal Central, and a confectionery called Ovos Moles. Gooey marzipan in a soft, seashell sculpted case. We sampled ours at a tiny café by the canal, A Barrista.
Back through the city to Canal do Cojo and a sleek extravaganza of shopping mall, topped with a garden roof terrace. Time to sit in the sun and watch and wave, as the boats sweep beneath a bridge decked in ribbons. Sadly I can’t show you. Soon after our return from Aveiro I was having laptop difficulties. In trying to assist, my husband accidentally deleted the vast majority of my photos from the trip. To this day I have been unable to recover most of them. I was devastated at the time, but I’ve used what I have, including some from my phone and a handful borrowed, and credited, from him.
I loved the canals, the camaraderie of the crews, and the old part of Aveiro, but it’s fair to say, nothing was quite as I expected. If I hadn’t lost the photos I’d have regaled you with more posts. I’ll simply say that the weather changed, and the plan to spend the birthday by the beach at Costa Nova wasn’t feasible. A short visit on our homeward journey left us both underwhelmed. The stripey houses facing the lagoon had sacrificed much of their charm to commercialism, and the beach was no match for the ones here, at home.
Time to smile, and share. Many thanks to you all for reading, and for your welcome contributions. Join me any time, here on Jo’s Monday walk.
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Let’s start out with Jude. This is such a beautiful post. Life is good, indeed :
I suspect the Christmas market will be brightening this place now, Drake :
Iceland doesn’t have the most reliable weather, but it is undeniably beautiful :
Nor would Switzerland be a place to seek winter warmth, but Mercedes loves it :
Someone else with a love for mountains is Nicole :
A Panoramic Hike along the Grand Balcon Nord to the Mer de Glace in Chamonix
160 slices of cake! Even by my standards, that’s a lot, Jackie!
Alice likes cake too, but let’s start with a main course :
How well do you know South London? Anne is a good tour guide :
A walking tour of historic Southwark
While Anabel is ‘away with the fairies’ this week :
Mel has big plans for 2020! How about you?
The Camino Less Travelled in Spain – Camino San Salvador
But Cathy is just one stop from her goal on this epic journey :
(Camino day 46) Arzúa to Pedrouzo
Taking us back though a shared European history, in his own inimitable style, it’s Andrew!
Denzil too enjoys sharing stories. Perhaps you saw the prequel to this :
Australia and Corfu couldn’t be more different, but they’re both islands, with lizards! Agree Carol?
I’m always on the lookout for something different, and this is fabulous!
Sunday Walk Through Paltan Bazaar Dehradun
Next week I’ll take you to the university city of Coimbra. It was a grey day, and I have just one single surviving photograph, plus a few of my husband’s, but it’s too interesting a place to ignore. Hope to see you then. Take care!
restlessjo 
It looks lovely Jo, what a shame about your photos, I’d have been really upset. You’ve been lucky with the ones you go though, my favourite is the bit of the boat tail saying 9708 AV, it’s stunning. Hope you’re well babe, I’m off work with food poisoning, that’s one café i won’t be going to again. Have a good week sweetie 🙂
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Oh, Lord! That’s no fun, Gilly 😦 😦 It was a trip I’d really looked forward to, so I was very choked about the photos, but in the scheme of things… 🙂 Not managed to find any Exeter flights yet but will look again later this week. Hope you’re fit as a lop soon!
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I’ll email you when I’m in better shape 🙂
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These gondolas are charming with their vivid colors and lovely designs. But their size is deceptive until seen from above; the boats are quite large. And the candy stripped hoses of Costa Nova are like something out of fairy tale. Devastating to know that you lost the vast majority of your images from the trip but your phone picture are gorgeous and Mike’s contributions are magnificent
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Some of the boats were very long, Lisa, which made manoeuvring them through tunnels, at right angles, quite a challenge, but the crews were fantastic. 🙂 🙂 Costa Nova was a little disappointing, but I’m sure it was once a captivating place. Thanks for your company, hon.
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I was so distracted by the candy stipped houses I missed the disappointment at Costa Nova
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I usually scroll through the photos first, so I was thinking what a perfectly gorgeous sunny day you had for this jaunt. Only later did I see that some things were not quite what you expected and that you’d had a mishap with your photos. 😦
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Things aren’t always what they seem, hey, Lexie, but I was glad I salvaged enough to make a decent post. 🙂 🙂 The canals really are a beautiful place. Coimbra, next week will be more of a challenge.
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Sometimes it’s nice to realize that one’s backyard is better than the one we’ve travelled to see. I wouldn’t have believed it though, from your photos, if you hadn’t told me. Such a lovely spot it looks. Perhaps the nearness of the motorway coloured your feelings? I know it usually does mine as I can’t stand noise near something lovely. And, Wot, no cakes today?
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The motorway was a total turn off, Mari, but the canal network was as beautiful as I’d hoped. I had the most wonderful ride, in blissful weather. 🙂 🙂 The link to Ovos Moles is your cake treat for the week. The photos of those we ate were lost.
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It looks like you still got a lot of great photos of Aveiro, Jo. And I’m so envious that you were there on a sunny summer day, without rain. As you know we were in Aveiro and Costa Nova on a very cold and rainy day, so it was rather disappointing. Did you find the sardine stores? I loved those. I’m sorry you didn’t get to lounge on the beach in Costa Nova; I can’t imagine what it must be like on a summer day. 🙂
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Our first day and a half were glorious, Cathy, and I had the most wonderful ride on the canals- the main reason for our visit. There are sardine stores throughout Portugal now, with birth years on. Are those what you mean? They must be a chain of stores. The beach didn’t matter too much. We just revised our plan. Not sure that I would have been smitten with Costa Nova even on a sunny day. Some places speak to you… some don’t? 🙂 🙂
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I’m so glad you were able to take a boat ride on the canals. That would have been miserable with the weather we had. Yes, there were the sardine cans with birth dates, but also a number of other sardine stores with fetchingly decorated sardine cans. They were miniature pieces of art. I’m sure you didn’t care about the beach as you already have wonderful beaches where you live. It was pouring rain and deserted when we were in Costa Nova, so I can’t even imagine it with crowds and sunshine. I liked Peniche a lot better. 🙂
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Such a pity to lose so many of your photo memories Jo but the ones you have posted look so nice and it’s a great excuse to make a return visit, isn’t it!
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Not going back, Marion. The canals were every bit as beautiful and entrancing as I hoped. So much more to see 🙂 🙂
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So sorry about the photos. I can only imagine how terrible you (and he) felt. You still created a beautiful post of a place I’d never heard of but now would love to visit. Also sorry about the underwhelming ending to the day. I’ve had that sort of thing happen, too. I love the Art Deco Museum and the lovely decorations on the boats. Thanks for soldiering on and brightening my early morning.
My walk is indoors and not too long, but it does go back a long distance in time:
https://sustainabilitea.wordpress.com/2019/12/09/monday-walk-like-an-egyptian/
janet
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Life is never all roses, is it, Janet, but we still had a great few days away! The museum was stunning and I absolutely loved my ride on the canals. 🙂 🙂 Thanks a lot, hon! With you soon.
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So wonderful Alberto………..and to have a boat named after you must have made your day. Your back made mine Jo x
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The canals made me smile, ear to ear, Brian 🙂 🙂
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Waterways are the best places Jo 🙂
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Share and share alike is my philosophy 😁 I recall that time and can only assume that he formatted the drive otherwise the photos would have been recoverable. Not to worry. You have created a lovely vibrant post. Venice of the west it seems, and those stripey houses look lovely, not to mention the art deco.
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There’s beauty aplenty there, Jude, but the town wasn’t quite what we expected. Still, it made an interesting few days. As I said to Sue, I’m still waiting for our local photographic expert to get back to us. Not holding my breath! But life has moved on and there’s plenty going on at present. 🙂 🙂
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The canal , the gondolas, the sunshine- beautiful! Also thank you for including my post link here. On top of the world! 😊
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It’s a magnificent post. More please! 🙂 🙂
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Aveiro looks lovely but do you ever stop walking?
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Why would I, Jonno? 🙂 🙂 One day I won’t be able to, but today a lovely friend took a group of 10 of us on an 18km walk along the coast. The day started grey but warm and ended in radiant sunshine and a great meal. What’s not to like?
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Why not indeed Jo. Sounds fabulous.
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Such a shame you lost your photos but with what you had left plus those of Mike’s you’ve still created a lovely post. The canals look like a lovely place for a walk and the boats are certainly very colourful. I love the tile pictures too 🙂
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The area around the canals and the old part of town was really lovely, Eunice. 🙂 🙂 Some things weren’t so perfect, but life is about the learning, isn’t it?
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Sad to hear of the lost photos, Jo,…I lost loads from Provence through a corrupt memory card once, over a decade ago. Still, you’ve put a nice post together here
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I’ve put off writing about it for all this time, Sue, because I hoped I’d recover the photos. A local photographer is awaiting some software that might do the job but he had a desk full of work the last time we called in, so I’m not holding my breath. 🙂 🙂 Onwards and upwards! Happy Monday!
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Happy end of Monday to you, Jo!
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Feet up after an 18km ‘stroll’, Sue 🙂 🙂
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Yikes
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Jo, I can sympathise with the loss of your photos, I lost many of mine when my mobile phone disappeared down a waterfall in Norway…very sad. But I am glad you managed to create this lovely post with Mike’s photos and what was left of yours. We missed out on visiting Aveiro and judging by this post it was a big mistake. But I am sure I will return to Portugal in the future, thank you for showing me around this lovely place.
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Did you get to Coimbra, Gilda? That will be a real challenge for next week’s post, but I’ll do my best 🙂 🙂
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I loved this walk Jo. So colourful and full of detail 🙂
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Thanks Mel 🤗💕
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I’m sorry to hear about the lost photos, Jo. That’s so frustrating. I did enjoy the ones that survived. Thanks for the gorgeous walk!
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I very nearly didn’t post this but when I realised that we had enough photos between us and it’s such an interesting place, Jill 🤗💕
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Your husband lost all those photos and you’re still married? He must have a few redeeming qualities! Between you, you’ve come up with a very tempting record of your trip.
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He was trying to be helpful because my laptop is very old and I’m inept when it comes to technology. You could say the atmosphere was ‘charged’ in our house, for a while. 🙂 🙂
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Sorry to hear about the photo loss, Jo – I was wondering why so many images were Mike’s not yours. But at least we get to see you.
Looks a wonderful place – I’ll have to get there! The 2 must not misses both appeal very much. It’s about 25 years since I was in that part of Portugal and I want to get back to Porto, and now there’s an added reason to go.
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Huge trauma for weeks, Debs, because it’s such a photogenic place. I tried a local photographer but his software couldn’t recover them. Fortunately Mike took a few on his phone. I’m desperate to get back to the Douro and see some more of northern Portugal. Need to find my organising head 🙂 🙂
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Ooh, I would love to get back to the Douro, but I wouldn’t be up to getting very far!
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