Jo’s Monday walk : Seville, second helpings

I was in Seville for not much more than 24 hours.  Just enough to complete my mission in meeting Sue, with a little time to spare.  On my second day I planned to see as much of the city as I could, intending to join a free walking tour.  That way I wouldn’t get lost in the maze of streets, and would make it back to the bus station in Plaza de Armas for my return coach home.

Of course, I had to get to the meeting point first.  The day dawned bright and clear and I set off across the city towards Plaza de Espana.  Cafés were coming to life in the sparkling sun as I headed through the leafy greenery of the Murillo gardens, and skirted the beautiful Real Alcazar.

Sometimes things go to plan.  Sometimes they don’t.  I arrived at Plaza de Espana to find barricades and a squad of security guards.  Apparently Green Day were playing a concert in these fabulous surrounds the following day, so access was forbidden.  The Plaza is the undisputed jewel of the Maria Luisa Park, built for the Ibero-American Expo of 1929.  I am lucky enough to have seen it in all its glory on a previous occasion, and was looking forward to a return visit.  Our guide explained a little of the history to the tour group, and then set off in the direction from which I had come.  We were to cross the city and end at the Metropol Parasol, a route I had already traversed that day.  I made a snap decision and excused myself.  Time was too precious to waste and I knew that I was close to the river.  It was the perfect day for a cruise.

And across the road beckoned another historic monument that I had hoped to see, the Torre del Oro.  The 36 metre high tower was constructed in 1220, part of the wall defending the Alcazar and formerly linked to the Torre de la Plata.  Unfortunately the tower was closed as it was All Saint’s Day, a public holiday, but I was more than happy to hop on board a boat.

Nor was I alone.  The water was busy with all manner of craft, young and old enjoying the holiday.  Cruceros Torre del Oro provide an hour long, panoramic cruise on Río Guadalquivir, Sevilla flaunting her charms on all sides.  Comely, traditional Triana gives way to the futuristic Expo ’92 site and, in the distance, the fairground rides of Isla Magica.  As the boat gently turned midstream, I gazed deep into the heart of the city, towards the cathedral, guarded by her exquisite tower.  All too soon I was stepping ashore.

Denied access to the tower, I set off along the quay, the serenity of the river forgotten as traffic whizzed past me, from one set of traffic lights to the next.  Impatient for a green light, I crossed over to admire the Plaza de Toros.  Although I would never set foot inside to witness the tormenting of a bull, the building itself does command respect.

On the far shore, the flutter of umbrellas at a pavement café danced an invitation.  Crossing Puente de Triana, I admired the sweep of the river.  Would a table here be affordable, I wondered?  I cast my eyes over a menu or two.  Not too bad, and the view would be worth it.

I squeezed into a space, facing the river, with an hour just to contemplate the beautiful city before me, and all I’d seen and done.

I ate Flamenquins- ham and gooey, melted cheese in crispy breadcrumbs- no room for dessert.  Trailing a backward glance or two, I recrossed the river and followed it along the shore, towards my waiting coach.  It had been a delightful re-acquaintance with Seville.

If you missed my previous walk in Sunny Seville, you missed a treat.  No, not just the cakes, though they were good.  I met lovely Sue!

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Many thanks to all my wonderful contributors.  Walking is so much better with your company.  Join me any time, here on Jo’s Monday walk.  Newcomers and old friends, I always try to make you welcome.

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101 comments

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  3. Despite some detours and roadblocks you really did make the most of your time, Jo. I admire the way you broke away from the group and took your own road to a pleasurable afternoon. The sights are gorgeous, and I just wish your posts could include the aromas and the sounds. I could feel the beautiful energy! 🙂

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    1. Autumn here is much gentler but not so colourful, Terri. You can’t have everything, can you? I always wanted to see New England in the Fall but I’ve seen lots of other beautiful places. 🙂 🙂

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  13. So pleased you enjoyed your day in Seville, but then, who could not in such a lovely city. As usual, your pictures tell the story well and can fill in any gaps that arise in the story (none every do, of course). On my last visit there, the one in which I lost my camera and all my pictures, I finally got to La Macarena, both the area and the church, to see the famous statue of the Virgin of Hope of Macarena which is set in an alcove surrounded by the most incredible silver and gold ornamentation which serves to increase the impression of grandeur. I did not care for the area but the church was definitely worth seeing, as was the statue which is paraded only once a year I believe.

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    1. I don’t think my hotel was too far from La Macarena, Mari, but I didn’t have time to go in that direction. Maybe another time… 🙂 🙂 It was pouring the previous time I was there and I really would like to see Plaza de Espana again. Thanks for the suggestion 🙂

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  14. You certainly made the most of the day and it was lovely to be able to enjoy it from afar through your post. Do you find that the photography/challenge aspect drives you on to experience more than you might otherwise?

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    1. Hi Susan 🙂 🙂 Not at all- that is my nature! I’m a natural wanderer and was the same long before the blog. A natural progression, you could say. I enjoy writing about my explorations but I’d still do them if I didn’t have my walks feature.

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  16. I love your decisiveness in changing your day around to fit the circumstances! I probably would have dithered about leaving the tour and/or sulked about missing the plaza, but maybe I would have been as resourceful and quick-thinking as you and gone right down to the river for a quick cruise and bite. Nicely done!

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    1. Because I’d been to Seville before, hon, I knew a river trip was a possibility. Last time I was there it was pouring but this was a perfect day for it. I’ll go back to Plaza de Espana one day (and check the website beforehand 🙂 ) and I’d love to see more of the Triana district. Sometimes these impulsive decisions can go hopelessly wrong so I was lucky.

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  17. It’s funny we posted photos from the same places the same day… And they look so different! Love your photos from the cruise, that’s a thing I’ve never done before… in Seville or any other city! I like the perspective of the bridges and the buildings from the water. It’s a pity you couldn’t visit Plaza de España. Even if it’s always full of tourists (I went 3 times in 5 days, different hours, and it was always the same!!), it’s a very unique place… I’d love to see it though your eyes!

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    1. I love boats, Mercedes! It’s one reason why I live in Tavira. Access to the beach is by ferry because there are a series of offshore islands at the eastern end of the Algarve. 🙂 🙂 It’s fun to see a place through someone else’s eyes, isn’t it? Have you been to Portugal? I visited Plaza de Espana with my daughter many years ago. I’ll go back some day, I’m sure.

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      1. Now Tavira got my attention!! I’ve been a few times in Portugal… Once almost 20 years ago in Oporto… Even more time ago I visited Elvas, close to the Spanish city Badajoz… And now that every summer we spend a few days in La Antilla, in Huelva, I’ve been in Faro and the small towns at the border a few times. It’s normally a shopping trip, hehehe, But I’ve heard so many beautiful things about the Algarve that I would love to see more of it someday!! That’s one of the reasons I started following your blog 🙂
        Even if Plaza de España in Seville is a bit touristic, I love it!! When I went to Seville a month ago, I try to go there at sunset and it was always a beautiful sight! 🙂 And it also brings me nice memories, as my father used to work there when I was very little, hehehe

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  18. Don’t turn your face against the bullfighting museum. Like you, I couldn’t possibly attend a fight, but the long history of this ‘sport’ is worth getting acquainted with. And we had a river cruise too – at sunset. Just … perfect.

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  20. Seville looks like a lovely spot to explore & you sure managed to pack in some sights in the short time you had to visit. We flew home beside a gal who had attended the Green Day concert. Sounds like she flies all over the world to see them😉. Now that’s a fan!

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      1. All was well when we arrived back home. Life has been busy since our return, a new job which I am really enjoying & Christmas just around the corner! Yikes😲

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