A Call to place : the Azores

I can’t remember where it was that I first read about the Azores, but it goes back many years.  Açores, they say, here in Portugal, a softer sound; with a kind of reverence, and a far away look in their eyes.  A chain of nine islands, adrift on the North Atlantic, and just loosely tethered to the mainland, their volcanic origins creating dramatic scenery, soothed by the Gulf Stream.  That’s enough to stir the imagination, isn’t it?

I was born on an island, and have always loved the sea.  That azure colour, glinting in the sunlight, sits permanently in the back of my mind, though many’s the time I’ve seen it leaden grey.  I loved Portuguese Madeira and the volcanic aspects of the Spanish Canary Islands.  I felt impelled to know more.  Where exactly were they, and how could I get there?

São Miguel marina- a good place to start
Let’s go a-roving…
But I never did see whales, in the flesh
Not even a tail!

850 miles west of mainland Portugal, and over a thousand miles south east of Newfoundland, Canada.  An autonomous part of Portugal, they are divided, for convenience, into 3 groups : Grupo Oriental, to the east, with the largest of the islands, São Miguel, and much smaller, Santa Maria; Grupo Central comprises the ‘happy’ island of Terceira, Graciosa,  São Jorge, Pico, with its volcanic cone- the highest mountain in Portugal, and Faial, with its port Horta, known for Peter’s Sport Cafe, the sailing capital of the Azores; and the most mysterious and far away, Grupo Ocidental, to the west, Flores and tiny Corvo.  It was obvious, from the very beginning, that visiting all of the islands would be expensive, and time consuming.  So, which ones, and when?

Whenever I read of the islands there would be reference to volcanic lakes, surrounded by hedges of hortensia, or Hydrangeas, as I know them.  A ‘Granny’ plant, I always thought of them, filling the front gardens of old ladies’ houses.  But the pictorial evidence showed lakes of blue and green, in Spring and Summer wrapped around with foaming, creamy blue mopheads, like nothing Granny had ever imagined.  For years I brooded on these.  Not given to extravagant holidays, whenever I caught sight of an offer I would avidly read the small print, wondering if this might be the one.  But the timing was never right.  Finally I suggested to my husband that it would make a brilliant 70th birthday present, but could ignite little interest from him.  He was focused completely on our intended move to the Algarve.  I knew that I could fly directly to the islands from Lisbon, so it made sense to be patient.

Misty mountains, thronged with daisies
Looking down on Sete Cidades

Meanwhile, I talked to everybody I could who might know anything of these islands.  One of our Algarve walking friends had made a solo visit one winter, and been so enchanted with São Jorge that he planned to organise a group visit.  It never happened.  I joined the Seniors Club in Tavira, only to find that the 5 day Azores trip they were offering clashed with my son’s visit.  I enthused so much that 2 other of our walking friends organised a celebratory visit to São Miguel for their daughter’s graduation present.  Despite mixed weather in February, they loved it.  Still others remembered swimming in thermal pools there, more than 15 years ago.  Was I the only person never to have been?  Whenever the subject was mentioned, eyes would light up, and memories be triggered.

Still those flowers, everywhere
My partner in crime… smiling!

I turned to the world of blogging and to Instagram to broaden my knowledge of where to go, and what there was to see.  I was considering an organised walking holiday with Inntravel, or a cruise with Artisan, but I couldn’t quite get the balance right (or the price!)  In the end I booked it all myself, using SATA, the Azores airline.  Roughly following the Inntravel itinerary, I booked ferries and chose hotels with much deliberation.  13 nights, 4 islands, 6 flights, 2 ferries and 6 hotels.  The date was chosen to coincide with the flowers being at their peak.  It never even entered my head that I would be missing the French Open, and an amazing 12th title at Roland Garros for Rafa Nadal.

A hazy shot, flying over Velas on São Jorge
SATA Airlines did us proud

All a little daunting, I was desperate for it to come together seamlessly.  Or with a minimum of hiccups.  🙂   Much information on the islands and their history is available on Wikipedia.  For me, this is the beginning of a memorable journey.  Thanks to Cathy at Wander.essence for the opportunity to share it.  Read of the determination that took her to a Call to place: the Sultanate of Oman.

148 comments

  2. There must be something magic about getting to 70. I’m so very happy for you. It simply looks like a true dream come true. I found my ‘sweety’ (the love of my life) when I turned 70! (better late than never?) It’s like a most special birthday present. Getting to 75 wasn’t a bad one either! 😉

    I know I’d heard the name ‘Azores’ in passing a time or two, but never really registered what or where it was. It sounds simply idyllic.

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    1. Knowing the kind of coastline and nature you thrive on, I think you would love the Azores, Gunta. 🙂 🙂 It’s unbelievable to be 70 and still find so much joy in life and so much to look forward to. You do worry for the future, and how long you can go on doing the things you love, but the memories are astounding. I’m really happy for you too. Finding love is special at any age. 🙂

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      1. I’m totally satisfied with my current location. I’m sure I would love the Azores from what you’ve shown here, but there’s all that ocean to deal with to get there. I’ve had my limit of plane travel. It used to be fun in the early days (actually a treat), but these days it’s pretty close to unbearable to me. I try not to think about the future and simply enjoy where I am right here and now! While still very much thrilled for the joy you’ve found in your new location! ❤

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  5. What a wonderful thing to make your long held dream come true Jo. Congratulations on organizing it all yourself. Sounds like quite a few logistics but well worth the effort.

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    1. After waiting so long I didn’t want to get it wrong, Sue, and organising it myself there was only me to blame if I did. It’s always a learning curb, isn’t it? One of the things I love about travel. 🙂 🙂

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  7. Jo, your first photo is so beautiful! How lovely for you to finally realise your dream and, judging by the photos I’ve seen on Facebook, it was all that you dreamed of and more. You can always watch the tennis next year!

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    1. Well, I’ll certainly be watching Wimbledon, Carol. 🙂 🙂 I wasn’t hopeful that Rafa could win another French, and it felt like he was close to retirement so I didn’t want to miss a thing. But in the end he proved me wrong, and I had the most wonderful holiday. 🙂 🙂 (and I did get to see the final 🙂 )

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  9. Glad you got to go somewhere you so clearly have always dreamt of. They sound lovely. Didn’t some royals go there for their honeymoon years ago? X

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  12. Such a dream location. So happy for you, Jo. The photos and words conjure up the serenity of this remote paradise. Thanks for the escape.🙂

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    1. It really was that dream come true, Becky. And guess what? We’re sitting in your favourite town watching them hang umbrellas in the old town. Portuguese lesson over and glass of wine to hand 😍🌂🌈🍷💕

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      2. It was fascinating watching the guy riding those narrow streets on a ‘hopper’, lining them all up! A good afternoon’s entertainment 🙂 🙂 And then the mobile Napoleonic wars was madness!

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      3. hee hee . .can just imagine the madness. You were lucky to be there at the start, and much more fun to watch them appearing 🙂

        Robert saw your photos on Instagram last night and wants to pop back for short stay! If only we could . . . but have a few dramas going on here.

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      4. Oh no! That doesn’t sound good. Hope Mum’s ok, and it’s ‘just’ a bricks and mortar thing. Message me if you have time or feel it’s appropriate. No pressure! Sending hugs for you all 🙂 🙂 And a sunny smile.

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  16. I’m so intrigued… both by your endless fascination with these islands and your photos – look forward to hearing more. Wow that’s a lot of flights in a short time period. Am sure it will be worth it from the sounds of it. Is t it interesting how certain places have the power to captivate … sometimes even before we have visited them!

    Peta

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  17. what a fabulous trip, Jo! so happy for you and i can see it a dream destination! awesome story, great pictures! thank you for taking us along 🙂 🙂

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