A Call to place : the Azores

I can’t remember where it was that I first read about the Azores, but it goes back many years.  Açores, they say, here in Portugal, a softer sound; with a kind of reverence, and a far away look in their eyes.  A chain of nine islands, adrift on the North Atlantic, and just loosely tethered to the mainland, their volcanic origins creating dramatic scenery, soothed by the Gulf Stream.  That’s enough to stir the imagination, isn’t it?

I was born on an island, and have always loved the sea.  That azure colour, glinting in the sunlight, sits permanently in the back of my mind, though many’s the time I’ve seen it leaden grey.  I loved Portuguese Madeira and the volcanic aspects of the Spanish Canary Islands.  I felt impelled to know more.  Where exactly were they, and how could I get there?

São Miguel marina- a good place to start
Let’s go a-roving…
But I never did see whales, in the flesh
Not even a tail!

850 miles west of mainland Portugal, and over a thousand miles south east of Newfoundland, Canada.  An autonomous part of Portugal, they are divided, for convenience, into 3 groups : Grupo Oriental, to the east, with the largest of the islands, São Miguel, and much smaller, Santa Maria; Grupo Central comprises the ‘happy’ island of Terceira, Graciosa,  São Jorge, Pico, with its volcanic cone- the highest mountain in Portugal, and Faial, with its port Horta, known for Peter’s Sport Cafe, the sailing capital of the Azores; and the most mysterious and far away, Grupo Ocidental, to the west, Flores and tiny Corvo.  It was obvious, from the very beginning, that visiting all of the islands would be expensive, and time consuming.  So, which ones, and when?

Whenever I read of the islands there would be reference to volcanic lakes, surrounded by hedges of hortensia, or Hydrangeas, as I know them.  A ‘Granny’ plant, I always thought of them, filling the front gardens of old ladies’ houses.  But the pictorial evidence showed lakes of blue and green, in Spring and Summer wrapped around with foaming, creamy blue mopheads, like nothing Granny had ever imagined.  For years I brooded on these.  Not given to extravagant holidays, whenever I caught sight of an offer I would avidly read the small print, wondering if this might be the one.  But the timing was never right.  Finally I suggested to my husband that it would make a brilliant 70th birthday present, but could ignite little interest from him.  He was focused completely on our intended move to the Algarve.  I knew that I could fly directly to the islands from Lisbon, so it made sense to be patient.

Misty mountains, thronged with daisies
Looking down on Sete Cidades

Meanwhile, I talked to everybody I could who might know anything of these islands.  One of our Algarve walking friends had made a solo visit one winter, and been so enchanted with São Jorge that he planned to organise a group visit.  It never happened.  I joined the Seniors Club in Tavira, only to find that the 5 day Azores trip they were offering clashed with my son’s visit.  I enthused so much that 2 other of our walking friends organised a celebratory visit to São Miguel for their daughter’s graduation present.  Despite mixed weather in February, they loved it.  Still others remembered swimming in thermal pools there, more than 15 years ago.  Was I the only person never to have been?  Whenever the subject was mentioned, eyes would light up, and memories be triggered.

Still those flowers, everywhere
My partner in crime… smiling!

I turned to the world of blogging and to Instagram to broaden my knowledge of where to go, and what there was to see.  I was considering an organised walking holiday with Inntravel, or a cruise with Artisan, but I couldn’t quite get the balance right (or the price!)  In the end I booked it all myself, using SATA, the Azores airline.  Roughly following the Inntravel itinerary, I booked ferries and chose hotels with much deliberation.  13 nights, 4 islands, 6 flights, 2 ferries and 6 hotels.  The date was chosen to coincide with the flowers being at their peak.  It never even entered my head that I would be missing the French Open, and an amazing 12th title at Roland Garros for Rafa Nadal.

A hazy shot, flying over Velas on São Jorge
SATA Airlines did us proud

All a little daunting, I was desperate for it to come together seamlessly.  Or with a minimum of hiccups.  🙂   Much information on the islands and their history is available on Wikipedia.  For me, this is the beginning of a memorable journey.  Thanks to Cathy at Wander.essence for the opportunity to share it.  Read of the determination that took her to a Call to place: the Sultanate of Oman.

148 comments

  2. Sounds like this adventure has been a long time coming & well worth the wait. Not familiar with these island but will definitely look them up! Can’t wait to read more about your travels here. Stunning!

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    1. The good news for you, Colline, is that you can fly SATA directly from Toronto or Montreal to Ponto Delgada on the main island. I can’t guarantee sunshine but it’s beautiful 😍🌂🌈💕

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  7. Beautiful pictures as usual Joanne and good on you for organizing your dream holiday. Enjoyed your photos of your visit on FB too.
    We visited 5 of the islands a few years ago, but mainly just go to Sao Miguel when we visit family.

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  8. How fabulous to have a dream come true and to live up to its expectations. Well done with all the planning and organisation. The images in this post are stunning and I’m looking forward to hearing more of your adventure. Did you also get to see our delightful Ash Barty win at the French open?

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    1. Thanks darlin! I only saw 2 matches, Pauline. Rafa’s first, the day before we left, and the final. I was in a complete panic about where I might be able to watch it but a tiny TV tucked away in a corner of our last hotel was just perfect 😍🎾🏆💕

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  9. This trip was such a long time in coming, Jo! Plenty of time to dream and let your imagination run wild. I had to look at the map to see just how far from Portugal these islands are: so many islands and so far away from everything. You had to take so many flights and ferries to see those four islands. I’m sure it was a grand adventure. And you did seem to be immersed in the hydrangeas! What a fun dream to have nurtured for so long and then to have brought to fruition. Thanks for the link; I’ll link yours to my next call to place on June 27. 🙂

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      1. I’m so glad that it met or even exceeded your expectations. That can often be the case, that you dream about a place so long that it doesn’t live up to the image you have of it. I felt that way a bit about Morocco, but I did love many parts of it. Maybe it was the way I did it, with a group. You know I never enjoy that kind of holiday!

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  10. I love your post Jo, your vivid tale about your dream and the beautiful photos.
    Like you I have wondered often about the Azores and dreamt it possible to go. Long way though.
    You live it all and tell us.
    From one island girl to another.

    miriam

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  12. I am contemplating a holiday for my 60th to Portugal and so this was interesting. I never thought of going to the Azores but I think I would like it. Thanks for enlightening me.

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      1. I’m waiting. I’m waiting…You won’t believe how grim it’s been here. 30 hours nonstop rain, some of it torrential. Tis gloomy still today, so bring on the mopheads – floral and actual!

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  17. Jo, After reading your post I’m misty-eyed, already in love with these islands! 😀 I’m so happy that you managed to arrange the trip yourself… no mean feat to tie up a long itinerary and so many locations. How typical that so many had just visited … now you’ll be one of those who happily recalls their memories of the Azores as others dream of visiting this paradise. The photos are breathtaking and a beautiful start to my morning in grey cool England! Btw. I was wondering what island you were born on?

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    1. In Coventry, far from the sea, in the British Isles, but I moved to Mam’s home on the north east coast at 6 weeks old. Took me a long time to leave 😆. Permanently, anyway! I loved the islands and hope to return to see others one day. 😍💕

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  18. How wonderful. I never thought much about the Azores. It was just a place on the shipping forecast. You’ve ignited my desire to explore there too….but I’ll begin with the blog posts that I am sure await us!

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    1. In some instances, breathtaking, Margaret! Monday’s walk was quite probably the highlight of the holiday. And guess what? I have to go back! Didn’t see all the islands 🙂 🙂 Husband ok?

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  19. Jo, congratulations for going there independently, realising your dream. Truly wonderful and inspiring. I don’t know much about the Açores, so I am eager to learn more with you 🙂

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  20. How utterly fabulous that you fulfilled your long held dream at last and organising it can’t have been easy! I shall look forward to all the walks you have in store for us on these amazing islands. As for hydrangeas, they grow all over here in Cornwall so I don’t have to travel quite so far 🙂

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      1. Physio appointment! Alex left yesterday despite the torrential rain along his route. He’ll be back in a fortnight. Hope you have got your bags back!

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      2. They were delivered to our door the same evening. Saved us humping them on the airport bus 😆. 2 washloads done and dry, 1st line dancing lesson 😂 and Portuguese class over. Sitting in Olhao watching them hang umbrellas over the streets. Purely decorative. Hate to sound smug! Physio help? 😍🌂🌈🍷💕

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      3. Not a bad life! Physio pretty much a waste of time, they just give you exercises to do which I can find out about online! Anyway, no lasting damage. I just have to strengthen my calf muscles which will take time.

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