Jo’s Monday walk : Easter in Tavira

I’m taking you back to Palm Sunday in Tavira for this week’s walk, and an evening heady with emotion.  It’s some years since I spent Easter in the Algarve, but I vividly remembered some of the treats in store.  And I’m not just talking about sweet Folar cake, though that’s good too.

At 5pm people were still strolling nonchalantly towards the Carmo Church.  The ceremony was about to begin but urgency is almost unheard of in these parts.  Eventually a priest left the church and unhurriedly mounted the low stage to address the crowd.  Children fidgeted and skipped about, the smallest ones being hoisted high on shoulders.  The scent of lavender hung in the air, a crushed carpet beneath our feet.  The band were roughly assembled, waiting for their moment.  But first the priest must intone his lengthy benedictions.

Then came the moment.  At a signal from their leader, the band struck up, and began a slow-stepping march.  With varying degrees of enthusiasm, they were joined by members of the congregation, who spilled slowly from the church, banners aloft.  Parents watched anxiously as the cubs shuffled past, shy in the spotlight of so many strangers.  Teenagers, with more assurance, grinned at friends in the crowd.

Cameras began to flash as the floats made their way from the church, gravity and the weight of their years etched on the faces of the bearers.

Against a mackerel sky, on this warm evening, the floats began to sway past us, plaintive music their accompaniment.  A substantial crowd had gathered, the lucky ones sitting up on balconies or gazing through open windows, the rest of us hushed in awe.  The floral decorations were a triumph in themselves.  Never have I seen Birds of Paradise and lilies displayed so eloquently.

Slowly the drama unfurled, as float after float was lofted by, stopping to adjust the weight on shoulders and to negotiate the corner.  Gently, gently down a perilous incline, the crowd following respectfully.

The numbers swelled as we gathered momentum, though the streets are too narrow for speed.  A slow march brought us eventually to the Ponte Romana bridge, decorated with sentinel palms for the occasion.  A few of the cubs carried them too.

On through the main square, some taking the occasion very seriously, others happy just to enjoy the spectacle.  No judgement.  No harsh words.

Such a human affair, you couldn’t help but be moved.  The faith and dedication, the hard work to bring it all together, witnessed by so many in a glorious coming together.  The military, caught smiling in a moment of relaxation.  The band bringing up a valiant rear!

And then the crowds disperse and wander off home, or out to supper, as we did, leaving the day to end, peacefully.

Why this particular procession?  I’ve witnessed a few this past week, including the atmospheric night time lament on Good Friday.  And the joyful ‘Hosannah’s of the Festa das Tochas Floridas in São Brás de Alportel.  But this was my first Easter in my new home town, and my first ever Palm Sunday from my local church.  I hope you enjoyed it with me, and that you, too, shared peace and love this Easter.

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Another Jo’s Monday walk, and time for a different kind of share.  Please do visit and enjoy!  And many thanks to all of you.

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Debbie always makes me smile, then amazes me with her beautiful photography :

Chomping at the bit for Chihuly

Natalie kindly takes me to Mostar this week – a place I wished I’d visited from Dubrovnik, many years ago :

Day Trip to Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina

I’m always being assured how beautiful New Zealand is.  Another lovely ‘stroll’ with Suzanne!

The Tuahu Kauri and Sentinel Rock Trail

Now come and join me and Gilly, and Becky, in Topsham.  You won’t be sorry!

Last Thursday

Jude leads me down the garden path, again.  🙂  A very beautiful one  :

Trelissick Woodland Walk

Trelissick Garden in Spring

A little bit of initiative in the garden goes a long way :

Quick Tip – Yard Walkabout/Storm Repair

Two introductions next!  First, Suburban Tracks :

Stroll through Wild Street- Colors

Then a beautiful landscape, in Rajasthan :

The Wild Wet

And someone you know well- thanks Rupali!

The streets of Malaga

Geoff, meanwhile, shares his love of walking and of books, while Dog stays at home :

Walking With Rosie #bookreview #therosieresult

It’s not every day you see a couple of Penny Farthing’s rolling down the street.  Thanks, Irene!

Back in Time

Speaking of time, doesn’t this forest look primeval to you, Sandra?

Grand Ridge # Hike in Springtime

And stepping back in time, I’ve walked this landscape and loved it.  Thanks, Nadine!

Day 13 on the Pennine Way: Greenhead to Bellingham, 21.5miles

Anyone been to Luxembourg?  Looks nice, Drake!

Grand Duchy

Another day with Cathy, a sea of vineyards and reflections on life :

(Camino day 13) Ventosa to Azofra

No cake, you’ll have noticed!  I over-indulged you on Saturday  🙂  I’m sure there will have been a few chocolates.  Wishing you all a great week!  I will be back with coverage of the Tochas Floridas.  It was sensational this year.

 

114 comments

  1. Very enjoyable post and interesting. I enjoyed every photo in Your, they descried this happening very well. We have in Helsinki same kind of happening, which is called Via Crucis, but we have not seen it on site. Thank You.

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      1. I was quite excited to be in Lisbon over Easter a number of years ago but it bucketed rain all day so we ended up holed up in the apartment. Always been a bit sad about that.
        I spent Easter Sunday running 30km and then recovering. 😁

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  8. The Spanish – and evidently the Portuguese – do these things so well, don’t they? Good to see these old traditions alive and well. What a great first Easter in your new home.

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    1. Most Easters we’ve been ‘home’ with family so we’ve only caught a snippet here and there, Margaret. It’s been a pleasure and a privilege to be part of this one. 🙂 🙂 How are things with your other half? Good, I hope!

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  9. Such a glorious celebration of Easter. Those floats looked so heavy, but so beautiful. What an interesting place you now live in Jo there always seems to be so much to do and thank you for sharing it with us through your beautiful photos. That last photo is a perfect symbol of peace and tranquility

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    1. I did think that about the ‘mackerel’ sky, Pauline. All day it had been sunny and warm and then with evening those clouds trailed across the sky, giving a veil of protection from the sun’s rays. It was quite atmospheric. 🙂 🙂 Yes- so much to do! My calendar is full all week and the Spring Show at the weekend brings music and dancing.

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  10. I would be very moved by this procession. There’s something about the ritual, pomp and focus that would be incredibly moving. The floral displays are spectacular, too. I am generally very impressed, Jo!

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    1. It’s a special time of year here, Debbie, and even if you’re not religious it’s very easy to get caught up in it. 🙂 🙂 And next the Spring Show, with music and dancing!

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  12. A joy for all the senses! At least for the spectators and followers of the procession. I think the “bearers” must have had a hard time at it. Dedication and faith at their best. Beautiful procession and experience, Jo! The first Easter as a Tavirian (it sounds like that name could come out of Game of Thrones), with many more to follow.

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    1. Yes, I suspect you’d have earned your place in heaven if you’d carried one of those around town, Liesbet. 🙂 🙂 The events around the Easter weekend were wonderful, and this weekend follows the Spring Show, with lots of dancing and outdoor entertainment.

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  14. @Street Art in Silves
    Good usage of art in decorating cities and towns. One would find a similar performance across Australia, where most of the electric and telecom boxes have been painted with various arts. If you visit NT, most art will be aboriginal, so vibrant that it paints the place and the entire city. Nowadays I see arts on bare walls and silos. A good way to beautify eyesores.

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      1. Jo, I have added two new posts on Science of Photography. Take a look and tell me if you like it. I will be adding more post to that series.

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  15. It’s a very impressive event, and it’s great that you attended as a “local” now. I’m guessing you’re experiencing as much of the local culture and customs as you can. The sky in your last photo is spectacular.

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    1. It’s funny how some people who’ve lived here a number of years totally disregard the culture they live alongside of. Right from the start I’ve wanted to be a part of it. I love the spectacle, even though I’m not really religious. Something in it connects with my heart, and I love that. 🙂 🙂 Thanks so much for your kind words.

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  16. Those floats look heavy! I’m not one for the religion, but I am impressed with the floral displays. Sounds like you had a good Easter weekend. 🙂

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    1. They did keep stopping and hitching them ! 😦 The Sunday was an especially lovely day, marred slightly by not being able to meet Becky as planned. She’ll be nearer to you than me for the next few months 🙂

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  17. I take it the procession doesn’t include the pointy-hooded confraternities that process in Spain? I didn’ see any in your pictures anyway. I was in Malaga 3 years ago for Holy Week and the processions, although enjoyable, had an underlying sombre air because of the penitents and the disorienting effect their attire had on the people. Or was that only my impression? Inside, the party goes on, but when the bell rings, everyone downs their glasses and rushes to the windows to finger their beads and say a prayer or two. Then to crown it all, on either Good Friday or Easter Saturday, the Spanish Foreign Legion processed from the port carrying an enormous wooden cross (with one hand only, such a show of strength) to the main square That was even scarier because it had all the trappings of the Franco regime.
    Your photographs are, as always, a total delight, and I am so glad you enjoyed the occasion. Hope you indulged in some good chocolate for Easter as well!

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    1. No chocolate, Mari, but some wonderful fig and almond concoctions at our Easter Sunday celebration, which was spectacular (to follow, when I have time because this week is SO busy! 🙂 🙂 ). No, none of the Klu Klux gang! They give me the creeps too. I think they used to be part of the Good Friday parade here. It was sombre, of course, but not in that threatening way that religion can have. Just quiet and reflective, and more than made up for by the flamboyance of the Sunday :). Thanks, darlin! What did you get up to?

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      1. Younger part of my extended family visited me over he holiday, kids spent all their time staring at their screens and using their thumbs to speak to their friends (but not to me). Adults and I had a good time but I sometimes wish they could leave the kids at home because I honestly can’t see what pleasure they get from visiting relatives. Was I ever like that? I don’t think so, my mother would have had a lot to say about it if I had! I’m grouchy about social media and children.

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      2. Well, I do know what you mean, but my neighbour’s grandchildren are visiting at the minute, and she argues that it teaches them skills they need for the modern world. In moderation, of course 🙂 🙂

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