Jo’s Monday walk : A rainy day in Jerez

Today I’ve got my map out, and am trying to make some sense of my collection of photos of Jerez.  Not always easy when you’re a ‘follow your nose, snap everything that catches your eye’ sort of person.  We were staying very centrally, in the historic quarter, and initially I thought this a poor choice.  Especially as we rounded a corner, to a row of houses propped up with giant sleepers, almost next door to our hotel.  Just how safe, and how scenic, was our ‘close to the cathedral’ accommodation going to be?  But I needn’t have worried.  La Fonda Barranco was warm and welcoming, and perfectly placed.  History was right on the doorstep, even if some of it did need a little shoring up.

As always, it was a case of orientating oneself, something I’m not especially good at.  I’ve usually just about got the hang of a place when it’s time to move on.  But I can tell you that we had a superb Ayuntamiento, and the stunning cathedral at our backs, along with a small army of sherry bodegas.  A myriad of narrow streets encouraged wandering, with seemingly an equal number of churches.

The hues are all beige, citrus lemon and ochre.  In Plaza del Arroyo, just around the corner from our hotel, I was already dumbfounded by the architecture, a crick in my neck as I gazed upwards at the elaborate twists and curves.

You might remember from my previous Jerez post, we arrived on Andalusia Day.  Entry to the museums was free, and we sought shelter from wind and rain in the Flamenco Museum.  Filled with art and music, the arresting courtyard at its heart is a shining example of many that I saw in Jerez.

Back on the glistening streets, it wasn’t long before we had to seek shelter again, this time in a most convenient cake shop.  Naturally!

There are always compensations.  We were caught out in the rain numerous times, resulting in a second visit to that cake shop.  The skylight at the rear of the cafe was leaking copious quantities into strategically placed buckets.  Undaunted, we tackled more cake!

More wandering brought us to the Santiago quarter, well known for its flamenco.  The ravaged umbrella dangling from a dustbin summed the weather up succinctly.  The Clock Museum would have provided an hour’s dalliance, with multiple tick-tocking, but the timed visits were for mornings only.  We’d missed the last performance at 13.15 so, with a wistful look at the grounds, we settled for an atmospheric bodega nearby.  I did stop to wonder who kept the heroic looking warrior supplied with crocosmia.

I could quite easily have entitled this post ‘Lost in Jerez’.  We had a tendency to make a 20 minute walk take an hour, but Jerez is a muddle of fascinating, if sometimes scruffy, streets.  The weather definitely played its part.  A Lonely Planet recommend had us seeking sanctuary in the church of San Miguel, where the huge wooden doors rattled as the wind howled outside.  Built during the 15th and the 18th centuries, its altarpiece, the work of Martinez Montanes, is among the most important works of the Golden Age of Seville.

A drum roll now for a sequence of March Squares, for Becky.  They should take me to the end of her challenge.  The Tinotto de Cielo, with a nod to sherry trifle, was particularly delicious.  The interesting menu at La Cruz Blanco included very tasty shrimp fritters and seafood lasagne too.

I still have the cathedral and the beautiful Alcazar to show you but they’ll keep, for the moment.  It’s time to put the kettle on, so you can settle down to read this week’s shares.

Many thanks to all of you who read and contribute to Jo’s Monday walk  It’s very much appreciated.  You’re welcome to join me any time.

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Almost certainly a step too far for most of you, but there are some beautiful photos here, from Arundhati :

How to turn One of Britain’s Best Walks into an Adventure

You don’t need photos so much as a little imagination, to walk alongside Susan :

Walking the “Sea Glass Festival”

And if you like a good time you can’t do better than to accompany Lady Lee :

Lovely weekend in Dusseldorf

Geoff has chosen to share a last bit of snow (I hope so!)  Keeping mine to myself :

Snow Doubt About It

We had joy, we had fun, we had… snowtime, with Drake :

Season in the sun

Eunice finds sunshine too.  And happy ducks!

A dog walk to Turton Tower

Smiling with Irene!  Reminds me of a Chuck Berry song, but that’s showing my age :

No place to go

Pauline is a lovely lady who likes to chat.  Wouldn’t you love to walk beside her!

Sonder…

And talking of lovely ladies, here’s another of my favourites.  Eloquence and history always mingle with Tish :

The Little Church By The Sea

Jude produces yet another garden from her bottomless archives!  Her flower galleries are exquisite :

Garden Portrait: Hergest Croft

And Carol dazzles with a beautiful display of abundance :

Two Gardens

That’s it for now!  I don’t have an Easter plan at present, and the weather looks uncertain at best.  Hopefully I’ll still be here with a Monday walk.

 

 

 

 

 

128 comments

    1. The patio gardens are such a feature of this part of the world, Carol. Cool and inviting in the Summer and sheltered from the wind on less beautiful days. One year we must catch the Patio Festival in Cordoba, in May. 🙂 🙂

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  2. It sounds like the title of a song Jo. “A Rainy Day in Jerez.” Not sure what will rhyme with Jerez though. “I met a man with a fez. His name was Fernando Cortez” … Lovely post, delicious cakes, I mean architecture!

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    1. So much to see, Susan, and amazing how much the architecture can vary from two countries that live side by side. 🙂 🙂 I’m good, thanks, and just back from walking on our Yorkshire Moors (in sunshine 🙂 )

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  4. Dumfounding architecture absolutely, Jo – and cake too! What a wonderfully fascinating place you have brought us too. And never mind the rain. Far too much to look at. Happy Monday, and many thanks for the lovely intro and link to my post 🙂

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      1. Sunny here this morning, but cold. Now raining. So much work to do in the garden, but I need warmer weather to entice me out there for more than 10 minutes at a time.

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      2. I did an hour’s tidying in ours on Sunday. Amazing how quickly it bounces back with a bit of sun. House on the market after Easter so I’ll be cleaning/decluttering in the dodgy days forecast. 🙂

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  8. That was a great walk Jo, I hardly felt the rain 🙂 The architecture is fabulous and I love the tile pictures, especially the first one, it’s beautiful 🙂

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  12. Wonderful Jo. When I wander about foreign cities it’s called “Chaos Tours”. Never know where you”ll end up but always find my way back to my accommodation eventually. Where does this street go is always fascinating 🙂

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    1. Yes, that’s what I often do, Gilda. I usually rely on Mick’s sense of direction but even he is suspect sometimes. 🙂 🙂 He’s the one who stops to read every signboard. I usually look it all up when I get home, though I’ve a rough idea of what I want to see specifically.

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  16. How lucky am I to have my very own drum roll 😀

    I’ve fallen in love with Jerez from your photos and descriptions of cake, and the rain is hardly noticeable from where I am sitting. Fabulous walk as always Jo 😁

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      2. Yes! It’s tempting to linger and squeeze the last bit of pleasure, but you’ve had a few days and when you’re not well the pleasure soon ebbs! Sending hugs 🙂 🙂 From a safe distance 🙂

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  17. Pingback: A dog walk to Turton Tower – Life In The Mouse House

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