Jo’s Monday walk : Hunting camelias in Monchique

I had always thought of Monchique as rather a drab little town, despite the approach to it through beautiful countryside.  An astounding number of storks spectated from their nests along the roadside, and frolicked in the fields and orange groves.  Leaving them behind, the road climbs into the hills known as the Serra de Monchique, with their highest point 902 metres, at Foia.  Further down the slopes, I had been lured to the market town of Monchique with the promise of a Camelia Fair.

But where?  Arriving in the town around midday, all was quiet.  The Tourist Information Office was closed, and a large billboard advertised the advent of the Sausage Festival, next weekend.  Expectations lowered, but still with a glimmer of hope, for it was a day to enjoy.

Who would have anticipated the large open air pool?  What a place that must be to splash about in the Summer!  Steps led upwards, an open invitation, with the tip of a bell tower just visible, spurring me on.  Built in 16th century, the Igreja Matriz, or Mother Church, is dedicated to Nossa Senhora da Conceição, Our Lady of Conception.

The doorways are in the Manueline style, depicting images from the sea and from nature.  I step into the hushed interior, where strong pillars support the wooden ceiling.  Soft blue and gold adorns walls and alcoves.  I linger to admire the Capela do Santissimo (Chapel of the Most Holy Sacrament), the azulejos reaching high into the dome. (a lovely ‘square’ for Becky)

No sign yet of camelias but there are other distractions.  A shop offers homemade chocolates, cork products and Happy Donkey walks.  All three appeal.  The direction is definitely upwards, a discreet sign pointing to O Convento.  Escadhinas da Boa Vista promise fine views.

Around about here I get my first hint of camelias, growing nonchalantly in a tub.  And then a second pair, nodding in a ruffle of breeze.

By now I have the bit between my teeth and am in hot pursuit, but there’s that convent to explore.  Upwards I go, dangling washing lines and delectably old houses doing their best to delay me.  Already I’m high above the Igreja Matriz.  A forlorn icon looks down on me, sadly.

Little prepares me for what I will find at the top of the hill.  A small homestead adjoins the most ramshackle ruined convent you ever set foot in.  I’m beckoned forward with an eager nod from the homesteader and, very gingerly, I step up and into the ruin.  My eyes adjust to the gloom and I stare into the central courtyard.  A chicken run occupies one corner, and the small creatures scurry about, pecking busily.

The old lad waves me onward and I gaze in wonder.  Never have I stood inside a more tortured shell of a building, and yet, its spirit shines forth.

Convento de Nossa Senhora do Desterro (Our Lady of Exile), a former Franciscan convent, was founded in 1631 by Pêro da Silva, later to become a Vice-Roy of India.  According to legend he brought a small image of Our Lady, in ivory, back with him from India.  After his death it was venerated as a relic, and now resides in the hermitage of S. Sebastião down in the town.  Da Silva is thought to have been buried at the convent, and the enormous camelia that almost fills the centre of the courtyard is believed to have journeyed from India with him.

The camelias are lush and profuse, even crumpled at my feet.  As I turn to leave, the chap waves his arms to indicate that I’m not yet finished.  An adjoining room, once a refectory, has on its crumbling walls the remnants of a panel of tiles reproducing Leonardo da Vinci’s painting, The Last Supper.  Beside this, what must once have been an exquisite half tiled wall.  A solitary, poignant cross represents the Via Sacra, or Sacred Way.

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The earthquake of 1755 was largely responsible for the destruction of the convent.  Astounding to me that such treasures should languish unprotected, but access is undoubtedly an issue.  There is no charge to visit the convent, but a small contribution produced an orange and a smile from the old lad, and then it was back down the hill, more easily than the ascent.

I still hadn’t completely given up hope that there might be a camelia show somewhere, but when I finally came upon the deserted showground I had to face reality.  Maybe a piece of delicious almond tart would compensate?  But you know how strange life can be sometimes.  Strolling back to the central square, what should I find?  A whole row of planted camelia!

Many of the blooms were brown and withered at the edges, and it seems likely that the show was cancelled for this reason.  A cold spell early in the year may have caused the damage.  A pleasant sit in the sunlit square would round off my day nicely.  It’s a good vantage point for some of the expressive statuary celebrating local surgeon Dr. Humberto Messi, by sculptor Jorge Melicio.

Refreshed, it was time to drive back down the valley, stopping for a short stroll around the lovely thermal spa at Caldas de Monchique.  I think I’ll save that for another day.  I expect your feet are tired.  Pop that kettle on now and we’ll share some virtual walks.

There and back with Lisa makes this a terrific stroll :

Walkway over the Hudson

Susan’s not been around for a while, but she always makes walking a pleasure :

Walking with the Skyview

Warm this week, with Irene :

Living Desert

But Suzan reminds us of what some of us missed :

Photos with Finesse

I do try not to be envious, but Carol’s trip to the Blue Mountains is turning me green.  Twice!

From the Top to the Bottom

Thrillseekers

Amanda, meanwhile, takes us to a far less well known part of Australia :

Moore Meanderings at Linville

Jesh likes to look at the world in an arty way (and I spotted a few squares and circles in there too!)

The Movement of The City

Jackie’s having fun again, down Mexico way.  Her posts always make me so hungry :

Comida del Dia

And you really can’t beat living the good life, with Lady Lee :

Marina Bay Sands, Singapore

Or with my good friend Cathy, and her boundless energy.  Watch out for her new blog soon!

Prague: A day of wandering through Nove Mesto & Vinohrady

Drake needs lots of energy too.  He’s always busy!

Business as usual

And Eunice finally discovers a lovely piece of local history on her doorstep :

A local discovery walk

Hope you weren’t disappointed in this week’s walk.  If you’d like to join me, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Many thanks to all my lovely contributors.  Here’s wishing you a great week!

 

133 comments

    1. Very much so, Julie. We’ve actually been a couple of times but stayed in the lower area, which doesn’t really inspire, but it all depends what you go looking for and what you find beautiful, doesn’t it? 🙂 🙂

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  5. The ruins of that once beautiful convent gave me goosebumps. Yet so much beauty still surrounds it. I really enjoyed this walk with you Jo. Dark chocolate and happy donkeys sounded appealing too. Lovely post. xx 🙂

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      1. Oh my!!!! That is such an tantalizing statement. I spent two days of magic in the Azores, and my lasting thought is that I could happily live there. All the best to you in making your dream come to be :))

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      3. The weather, the beauty, the atmosphere – beyond description! It was Punta Delgado … don’t remember the island, but WOW. Congrats on the milestone – did you know that 70 is simply the best time to do something new???? I am planning for mine already (65 in July) 😉

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  7. I wasn’t disappointed at all, Jo. I was hoping to enter a walk of my own, but working Friday-Sunday night left me not enough time. I really like the doorways you showed and I’m glad you finally found some flowers. That tart sounds quite nice and I’d certainly stop at the chocolate shop.

    janet

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  8. Pingback: Procession of joy | Le Drake Noir

  9. I get sidetracked by your links, before I reach the comment box. Bad placement for this i-rambler. What a wonderful town, especially the church with those strange lintel-decorations, and that ruined convent. What an amazing find. In amongst all the treasures, I especially like the slant of shadow in the second collage and the chickens. Have you settled back in yet? Hard to see how you could leave the joys of Portugal. A dilapidated few hugs in honour of the convent ruin!

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    1. Sorry! Should I bundle all my links up and put them at the end, Meg? 🙂 🙂 I sidetrack myself sometimes. I feel thoroughly Anglified all over again. Must be all the rain. 🙂 I did have a lovely and very varied weekend though, so I’m still smiling. Thanks, darlin!

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  10. I want to go there. You had me googling and I see that Monchique is a town and also the name of the area? I have a feeling the convent would make my cry and I’m not even religious. Wonderful post my love.

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  11. What a very beautiful view from on high! And your travels offered both storks and chickens. That’s not an everyday occurrence! The convent ruins are obviously sad in their disrepair, but rather glorious when viewed through the lens of history, and with the tiles and a hint at “what was” it makes me feel good to know it wasn’t simply razed. Our local Camellia Festival and Parade just marked its 74th year. I have rather taken it for granted but plan to be a little more invested next year, the 75th. The beautiful delicate flowers don’t hold up to rain and cold, so I think that’s indeed what probably canceled the festival. Maybe you can visit for the Sausage Festival? 🙂

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    1. Hi Gerry! Good to hear from you. How’s it going? I know you usually pop in with a ‘like’ but I seldom get time to visit. I do appreciate your company though. 🙂 🙂

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  17. Looks to me that you should have worn a hard-hat in that convent! Only you would continue upwards not knowing what you might find. Glad you came across some camellias, I suspect the ones in Cornwall will have suffered similar hardships. I brought mine into the conservatory so my blooms are mostly untouched by the brown, but I have lost other plants to the freezing temperatures 😦

    [I am coming to the conclusion that your draw to Portugal could be its delicious looking cakes. You do find some beauties…]

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    1. If it was in the UK, Jude, there’s no way that you’d have been allowed in, let alone hard hat! There have been proposals to ‘rescue it’, but it really is in the darnedest spot. 🙂 🙂 Lovely views though! Our camellias never progress out of the conservatory. I’ve barely peaked out there so far.

      You do understand that I’m not the cake culprit? 🙂 🙂 (well, only the almondy/caroby ones)

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