Jo’s Monday walk : Hunting camelias in Monchique

I had always thought of Monchique as rather a drab little town, despite the approach to it through beautiful countryside.  An astounding number of storks spectated from their nests along the roadside, and frolicked in the fields and orange groves.  Leaving them behind, the road climbs into the hills known as the Serra de Monchique, with their highest point 902 metres, at Foia.  Further down the slopes, I had been lured to the market town of Monchique with the promise of a Camelia Fair.

But where?  Arriving in the town around midday, all was quiet.  The Tourist Information Office was closed, and a large billboard advertised the advent of the Sausage Festival, next weekend.  Expectations lowered, but still with a glimmer of hope, for it was a day to enjoy.

Who would have anticipated the large open air pool?  What a place that must be to splash about in the Summer!  Steps led upwards, an open invitation, with the tip of a bell tower just visible, spurring me on.  Built in 16th century, the Igreja Matriz, or Mother Church, is dedicated to Nossa Senhora da Conceição, Our Lady of Conception.

The doorways are in the Manueline style, depicting images from the sea and from nature.  I step into the hushed interior, where strong pillars support the wooden ceiling.  Soft blue and gold adorns walls and alcoves.  I linger to admire the Capela do Santissimo (Chapel of the Most Holy Sacrament), the azulejos reaching high into the dome. (a lovely ‘square’ for Becky)

No sign yet of camelias but there are other distractions.  A shop offers homemade chocolates, cork products and Happy Donkey walks.  All three appeal.  The direction is definitely upwards, a discreet sign pointing to O Convento.  Escadhinas da Boa Vista promise fine views.

Around about here I get my first hint of camelias, growing nonchalantly in a tub.  And then a second pair, nodding in a ruffle of breeze.

By now I have the bit between my teeth and am in hot pursuit, but there’s that convent to explore.  Upwards I go, dangling washing lines and delectably old houses doing their best to delay me.  Already I’m high above the Igreja Matriz.  A forlorn icon looks down on me, sadly.

Little prepares me for what I will find at the top of the hill.  A small homestead adjoins the most ramshackle ruined convent you ever set foot in.  I’m beckoned forward with an eager nod from the homesteader and, very gingerly, I step up and into the ruin.  My eyes adjust to the gloom and I stare into the central courtyard.  A chicken run occupies one corner, and the small creatures scurry about, pecking busily.

The old lad waves me onward and I gaze in wonder.  Never have I stood inside a more tortured shell of a building, and yet, its spirit shines forth.

Convento de Nossa Senhora do Desterro (Our Lady of Exile), a former Franciscan convent, was founded in 1631 by Pêro da Silva, later to become a Vice-Roy of India.  According to legend he brought a small image of Our Lady, in ivory, back with him from India.  After his death it was venerated as a relic, and now resides in the hermitage of S. Sebastião down in the town.  Da Silva is thought to have been buried at the convent, and the enormous camelia that almost fills the centre of the courtyard is believed to have journeyed from India with him.

The camelias are lush and profuse, even crumpled at my feet.  As I turn to leave, the chap waves his arms to indicate that I’m not yet finished.  An adjoining room, once a refectory, has on its crumbling walls the remnants of a panel of tiles reproducing Leonardo da Vinci’s painting, The Last Supper.  Beside this, what must once have been an exquisite half tiled wall.  A solitary, poignant cross represents the Via Sacra, or Sacred Way.

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The earthquake of 1755 was largely responsible for the destruction of the convent.  Astounding to me that such treasures should languish unprotected, but access is undoubtedly an issue.  There is no charge to visit the convent, but a small contribution produced an orange and a smile from the old lad, and then it was back down the hill, more easily than the ascent.

I still hadn’t completely given up hope that there might be a camelia show somewhere, but when I finally came upon the deserted showground I had to face reality.  Maybe a piece of delicious almond tart would compensate?  But you know how strange life can be sometimes.  Strolling back to the central square, what should I find?  A whole row of planted camelia!

Many of the blooms were brown and withered at the edges, and it seems likely that the show was cancelled for this reason.  A cold spell early in the year may have caused the damage.  A pleasant sit in the sunlit square would round off my day nicely.  It’s a good vantage point for some of the expressive statuary celebrating local surgeon Dr. Humberto Messi, by sculptor Jorge Melicio.

Refreshed, it was time to drive back down the valley, stopping for a short stroll around the lovely thermal spa at Caldas de Monchique.  I think I’ll save that for another day.  I expect your feet are tired.  Pop that kettle on now and we’ll share some virtual walks.

There and back with Lisa makes this a terrific stroll :

Walkway over the Hudson

Susan’s not been around for a while, but she always makes walking a pleasure :

Walking with the Skyview

Warm this week, with Irene :

Living Desert

But Suzan reminds us of what some of us missed :

Photos with Finesse

I do try not to be envious, but Carol’s trip to the Blue Mountains is turning me green.  Twice!

From the Top to the Bottom

Thrillseekers

Amanda, meanwhile, takes us to a far less well known part of Australia :

Moore Meanderings at Linville

Jesh likes to look at the world in an arty way (and I spotted a few squares and circles in there too!)

The Movement of The City

Jackie’s having fun again, down Mexico way.  Her posts always make me so hungry :

Comida del Dia

And you really can’t beat living the good life, with Lady Lee :

Marina Bay Sands, Singapore

Or with my good friend Cathy, and her boundless energy.  Watch out for her new blog soon!

Prague: A day of wandering through Nove Mesto & Vinohrady

Drake needs lots of energy too.  He’s always busy!

Business as usual

And Eunice finally discovers a lovely piece of local history on her doorstep :

A local discovery walk

Hope you weren’t disappointed in this week’s walk.  If you’d like to join me, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Many thanks to all my lovely contributors.  Here’s wishing you a great week!

 

133 comments

  1. Pingback: Sihanoukville, Cambodia – Ladyleemanila

  3. Love the invitingly open door to the chapel, Jo – nice image. And the stroll about this town was most welcome on a seriously dull day here

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  4. Another part of Portugal to visit, we may have to return!! Lovely and you eventually got to view some Camilla’s 🙂

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      1. We will be visiting at the end of the year. Summer will be the UK this year 😃

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  5. For you with love!!!!

    I’m just a traveler on this earth
    Sure as my heart’s behind the pocket of my shirt
    I’ll just keep rolling till I’m in the dirt
    ‘Cause I’m a traveler, oh, I’m a traveler
    I couldn’t tell you honey, I don’t know
    Where I’m going but I’ve got to go
    ‘Cause every turn reveals some other road
    And I’m a traveler, oh, I’m a traveler…..

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    1. Thanks so much! That’s very kind of you- I enjoyed it 🙂 🙂 Wet and dreary here today so my walk was cancelled in favour of coffee and scones with some friends. Not too bad a swap.
      Hope you have a lovely week!

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  7. Pingback: A stroll round Lanark – The Glasgow Gallivanter

  9. What an amazing walk Jo. It is so exciting when you come across such an interesting place as the tumble down convent and what an endearing old bloke to encourage you to see more. Great photography and you did find some camellias too. 🤗

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    1. As you drive into town you pass a lot of tumbledown and very workaday places, Anabel. You had to climb the heights to discover the good stuff. So glad I did 🙂 🙂

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  12. There’s no chance of being disappointed with this walk and your wonderful commentary, Jo. You always manage to deliver a great story. The camellias you did find are lovely. Did you return for the sausage festival the following weekend?

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    1. Thanks so much, Carol. That’s kind of you. 🙂 🙂 I knew when we saw the sausage festival posters that there was little chance of festivals being held on consecutive weeks. There was actually the beginning of the tents for the following week. 😦 It would have been great fun but very busy as there was one of the Todos a Caminhar walks based there that day (and we’d just driven back from Jerez the previous afternoon 🙂 )

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  14. This seemed to be quite the walk. Done in a day, lots to see. That ramshackle runed convent does really look like it has seen too many heavy days. But it is something – forlorn, dark, still standing strong. Was the white camelia supposed from India the very large one you were speaking of? Lovely to hear you did see the rows camelias in the end – round return walk for it 🙂

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    1. In the centre of the courtyard were two enormous intertwined camelia, Mabel- one white and one red. It was very hard to capture on camera and I’m really not certain which specimen arrived first. I did have a fabulous day out, though 🙂 🙂

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  17. The convent is a haunting and what a find and a lots of beautiful photos along the way. The Capela do Santissimo is wonderful and the ceiling stunning … made of tiles, I assume? Wow, the camellias are lovely and I’m glad you found some during your explorations … it’s as if their fragrance lifted off the screen! 😀

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    1. As you drive into the town you can see the Convento up at a height, Annika, but we’ve never gone the right way through the village to find the access. Good thing I was hunting camelias- I found the convent 🙂 🙂 Yes, azulejo tiles in the Capela. Have a good week! Dreary here 🙂

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  18. Pingback: A local discovery walk – Life In The Mouse House

  19. Fabulous photos as usual Jo, what a unique place to explore. The little chickens look so cute, and I would just have to try the Happy Donkey walk if only to find out exactly what it is 🙂

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  20. Oh this is lovely Jo. I wasn’t sure if it was worth returning to explore this little town, but clearly it is. I love my square in the dome. And the convent is extraordinary – MrB would love those traditional azulejos.

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    1. As I said at the outset, Becky, it seems a bit of a drab place as you drive in, but once you start to go upwards… 🙂 🙂 But if you do, get the mister to mind those ankles!

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      3. I know!! Need to stretch out time somehow.
        Blue skies here – thought check out Barril today, see how much damage there’s been. There again no wind so MrB may elect to do a birding walk instead – I’m happy either way 😁

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