Jo’s Monday walk : Beautiful Belém

Did you know that the name Belém derives from the Portuguese for Bethlehem?  And that makes it a very suitable subject for this time of year, doesn’t it?  Just 6km from the centre of Lisbon, it’s a distance I’d normally regard as walkable but, eager to get there, I squeezed myself onto a reluctant bus.  No tram for me!  My last visit to Lisbon ended in tears when my purse was pickpocketed whilst waiting for the famous no. 15 tram.  This time I was determined to make it to the Jerónimos Monastery.

And when I did, the disappointment of that failed visit was completely swept away.

I’ll bring you back to the incredible beauty of the monastery later this week, but for now I think we should do some walking.

Much too soon to loiter over a pastel de nata!  We need to get going to stay ahead of the tour buses.  I promise you can have one or two later.  It is the festive season, after all!  Not sure what to make of this street art.  Genius or madness?

Rua de Belém, the main street, is a strip of historical buildings dating back to the earthquake of 1755.  This and Ajuda were the areas least affected by the devastation, and many of the survivors who lost their homes were temporarily installed here in tents and shacks.  The King and his ministers set up court nearby and, with the construction of Ajuda National Palace, brought trade to the area.  With the French invasion of 1807 the royal family fled to Rio de Janeiro, and Belém gradually evolved into an industrial zone.  Tanneries, textiles, glass makers and metal stampers were among the factories established.

At the heart of Belém lies the Praça do Império, with gardens and fountain laid out during World War II, and beyond it a magnificent sweep of waterfront, culminating in the iconic Torre de Belém.  As you can see, it’s a popular spot.

The tower was built in 16th century.  Delicate as it looks, it was intended as part of the defence system at the mouth of the Rio Tejo, together with fortresses at Cascais– which we saw last week- and Caparica, south of the river.  A UNESCO World Heritage site, as is the monastery, it has a colourful history.  The two photos below are from a previous visit to Belém in 2005.

From here you can easily stroll along the riverfront as far as Ponte 25 de Abril, with any number of diversions en route.

You might think that not a lot of walking goes on.  It’s definitely an area devoted to fun in the sun, but looking ahead I’m excited!  The last time I was here I did not know that you could climb these structures.  Not only the lighthouse, but Padrão dos Descobrimentos.

The Monument to the Discoveries, as we see it today, was formally opened in 1960 to commemorate the voyages of exploration which departed from here as far back as the 15th century.  Trade was established with countries as far away as India.

You know what comes next, don’t you?  There was almost no queue for the lift that takes you most of the way up.

Did you spot Michael, in the blue t’shirt, sitting patiently waiting below?  He thinks it’s pastel de nata time.  Just another couple of shots!

Patience should be rewarded, I’m sure you’ll agree.  What a place!  I was astounded.  400 seats and choc full of character.  But best of all….

I don’t suppose many of you will feel like a walk on Christmas morning, so may I take this opportunity to wish all my walking friends a peaceful and happy Christmas.  I have enjoyed your company so much and I hope you’ll continue to walk with me in the New Year.

Not many walks to share this week.  Everyone’s busy, but spare a minute or two to say hello?  As always, many thanks to readers and walkers alike.  Details of how to join in are on the Jo’s Monday walk page.

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Let’s start with Tammy’s interesting tour in my part of  the world.  Watch out for the Fisherman!

North Shields Heritage Walk : Fish, Ships and Lighthouses

Jackie with a bit of seasonal spice this week?

Spicing things up

Why the battlefields of the Western Front are important to Woolly :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Wk46_Courcelette

And an excellent bit of sketching along the way, from Pauline and Jack :

Cliff top walk in the sun

That’s it for now.  Hope you enjoyed it.  Remember to breathe- it comes around every year.  Merry  Christmas!

112 comments

  3. My oh my Jo, you know how to bring the world to our door – this trip to Belém was fantastic from the architecture to the gorgeous Monument to the Discoveries (great views). I felt like I was right there appreciating this wonderful city, so rich in history and culture right with you. I’ve missed your posts and this was perfect to come back to. Merry Christmas my friend.

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      1. Thank you Jo for your special greeting. I’m good, just missing from blogging a bit with family matters. Eventually things will settle down – just glad to have an opportunity to stop in and say hello!

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  4. Just time to read your latest walk, Jo, in the midst of wrapping papers, shopping lists, and laundry. I was glad I made the time because it transported me from my frustration at trying to tie bows on packages and make the ribbon curl. What a performance. I look forward to your posts in 2018 and I wish you a very happy Christmas.

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    1. Hooray! 🙂 So glad you took a breather, Mari. I’m lucky- apart from food shopping (ugh!) I’m organised.. Wishing you a lovely Christmas, when you’ve finished wrapping, and better health and happiness in 2018.

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  5. Jo – many thanks for sharing your happy time in Belem with us! We absolutely loved visiting, taking loads pf pictures and just sitting somewhere to let it all sink in. We had such a wonderful time in Lisbon – but 2 weeks were not enough. – have a peaceful, happy Christmas time and we look forward to your next ‘walk’.

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    1. Hi Carina 🙂 🙂 Lovely to hear from you! Yes, it’s a beautiful city with many ways to pass the time. I’ll need to go back because I still haven’t managed to see everything I wanted. The other half would like a new pair of legs for Christmas. 🙂 Wishing you joy, and health and happiness in the New Year.

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  7. What a lot to see there, from the cutest post box ever to the view from on high – obviously I want to go up there! The assorted vehicles are great fun, but why so much English on them? Well I’ve spent five minutes looking for the elusive M and even with your directions to Jude I cant’ see him. Tell him I don’t bite, he can come out of hiding! I hope you didn’t scoff all the pastels, I suppose I can get some at Co-op but it won’t be the same. Have a lovely day darling, not long now to the big one x:-)x

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    1. Good morning, sweetheart! 🙂 🙂 You’ll be in work already (or dog walking 🙂 ) and the sun is just rising here. It’s lazy but at least it’s here! Belem is very much a tourist area so English is prevalent. Also there’s a fine university there and a good proportion of young students (we chatted to one on the bus 🙂 ) It’s very beautiful though, and you couldn’t fail to love it. Mick had 2- reward for his patience, I suppose. They are unbelievably good! 🙂 Look after yourself, Gilly, and have a fabulous Christmas! Sending lots of hugs…

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  8. Another beautiful walk, Jo. I love the Monument to the Discoveries! It’s really special! You make the most of your walks, that’s for sure and I’m so glad you had the opportunity to return and enjoy Lisbon, following your past very disappointing experience! I will look forward to walking with you again in the new year. 🙂 Very happy Christmas, Jo. And I just responded tonight to your questions about our safety in the Los Angeles fires. We are fine. They are devastating to all of California and of course, just horrific to those who have lost lives and property, but we aren’t directly affected. Thank you so much for thinking of me.

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    1. It was such a relief when you popped up in my comments the other week, Debbie. We are so far away but with world news everything feels on your doorstep. I know that Jet Elliot lost a home in the area but she is happily making the most of time with friends. We never know when we are truly blessed, do we? Thank you for your good wishes. Have a lovely Christmas and I’ll look forward to seeing you in 2018. 🙂 🙂

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  12. Lisbon is beautiful, so much history and culture. Those pasteis de nata look so yummy. I wish you a very Merry Christmas and many adventurous walks in 2018. I am off to Brazil for NY, so will probably unplug for a while and enjoy my family over there😄

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  19. So many astonishing buildings and vistas, Jo. Am v. looking forward to seeing more of that monastery, but for now am imagining the gorgeousness of biting into those scrumptious custard confections. Mmmm.

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