Jo’s Monday walk : A brief sojourn in Cascais

Since I very first heard the name, suggestive of seashells, I’ve wanted to visit Cascais, on the Lisbon coast.  That was many years ago, and so I had just a hint of doubt that it would still satisfy my expectations.  A harbour full of boats, a swathe or two of sand, and beautifully cobbled streets where I can wander at will, all are conjured in my mind.  A haven from the beautiful but busy streets of the city.  But how will I view the reality?

Boarding the train at Belem, I watched the estuary widen, caressed by shimmering sunlight.  With rapt attention I counted off the stations, until at last we reached the end of the line, Cascais.  It was late in the afternoon and I needed to find my accomodation.

Instructions in hand to head steadily upwards, I climbed the steps and streets away from the centre, taking note of interesting street art and entertainers.  A quick introduction to my room and I was back on the street.  Time for a proper look around.

The main square is an attractive space, with wide views out across the bay and locals comfortably ensconced on benches, passing the time of day.  A solid fortress protects the marina.  It dates from 1488, but was inadequate for the task, succumbing to invasion by Spanish troops in 1580.  It was subsequently enlarged by King Philip of Spain, and has the characteristic star-shaped floor plan of a Renaissance citadel.

The light was already beginning to fade as I rounded the headland, only to be enchanted by the sight before me.

A fairytale palace and a delightful cove, with the soft lap of the sea.  And an alluring lighthouse, waiting to beam gently at me.  Noting the restaurant, nestled above the rocks, I head on round the bay, following the setting sun.

All along the shoreline people are pausing to take in this splendour, some settling down on the rocks for a grand finale.

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As the light fades, I take in the majestic proportions of the Casa de Santa Maria.  Where better to sip a caipirinha, as the lighthouse blinks slowly at me, than the restaurant in the cove?  Just time to slip into the park before the gates close for the evening.

And then wend my way back, passing the marina, and the floodlit fortress with its neon support act.  I think I’ve fallen a little in love.

Is it any wonder that King Luis I decided to make Cascais his summer residence in 1870?  The citadel was equipped with the first electric lights in the country in 1878, and with the advent of the railway in 1889 this former fishing community acquired cosmopolitan status.

Next morning it’s time to leave, with not a little reluctance, but I have more to see in Lisbon, and a coach home to the Algarve that evening.  I draw out every last bit of pleasure by walking along the coast to the station at Estoril.

Passing the quiet beaches of Rainha and Conceicao, I revel in the late October sunshine.  A surprising number of people are taking their morning exercise on the promenade, and one or two inviting cafes beckon, but I resist.  Breakfast, not long ago, was spent talking to a lovely young Austrian woman.  All too soon, ahead of me, the distinctive structure that signifes Estoril to me.

I hope you enjoyed my brief visit.  I’d love to have seen inside the fort and some of the museums, but there simply wasn’t time.  Why not pop over to Sami’s blog.  She knows Cascais much better than me.

One week nearer to Christmas, and I still have so much of Lisbon to share.  Thank you so much for all of your support and for walking with me.  Pop the kettle on and enjoy my companions, won’t you?  Details on joining me are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.

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That’s it for another week.  Are you feeling festive?  We have just a scraping of snow here this morning.  It’ll do me nicely.  Have a good week, everybody, and take care out there!

112 comments

  3. I must do a post about this place. I found it absolutely adorable. The old town, the park, the museums. We ate in that restaurant on the rocks (the one with the red umbrellas) looking over the cove to the lighthouse. But our favourite was one run by a Brazilian lady with genuine Brazilian recipes, who chatted to us and was so very friendly. Please tell me you visited the lighthouse?
    Did you go here on your own then? If I’d have known I would have come with you… 😀

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    1. We were both there. It’s just I’ve written it first person. 🙂 🙂 Must have been a while ago, Jude? I think it would be busy/busy in summer and some of the centre was a bit touristy but it was perfect in October. I’d have liked more time, for the museums, and to walk up to Boca do Inferno/Guincho but it was only an overnight. I figured better a quick look than nothing and it worked. Also it got us out of the city for a bit. Win:), win, really 🙂 I

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  4. I have happy memories of my first visit to Cascais, I think around 1961 or 1962. It was also my first visit to a Casino where I didn’t gamble but gazed in amazement at the fabulously rich clientele wearing evening dresses in the afternoon. We didn’t have any spare money in those days and this was something amazing for me to behold. We had a little Austin van in those days which carried us all around Europe as we’d leave home at the drop of a hat to travel (leaving home was easy, we opted for travel rather than furniture!).

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    1. Always good to bring back happy memories, Mari. We still don’t have much spare money and the furniture is long past it’s best. A good time to depart for a new life in Portugal, I think. 🙂 🙂

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  10. What an interesting place Jo your photos really capture the atmosphere. So many beautiful buildings and what perfect weather for a walk. It is a place you could easily fall in love with and want to go back to again

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    1. I’m quite prepared to agree with you, Tish. I’m enjoying sun glinting on the snow through the windows but I haven’t gone out whooping just yet. I think you did that for me the other day 🙂 🙂

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    1. It’s a grand plaza, isn’t it? And always with a sand sculpture 🙂 🙂 I liked it a lot, Andrew, though some of the centre was a bit touristy. Inevitable, but you could skirt around it. No place to be in Summer, of course! How are you doing for snow? 🙂 🙂

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  17. I’ve definitely fallen in love. What a wonderful wonderful place. Do you think it will still be this quiet in the spring? Thinking maybe a visit towards the end of our winter sojourn.

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    2. I would think early Spring would be fine, Becky. I found a couple of the central streets a bit touristy but the harbour and that headland… superb! Debs has been too and will be putting up a walk when she can, and don’t forget to visit Sami, another Aussie pal. 🙂 🙂

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  18. Not first but close! I was as disappointed as you were not to be spending more time in this lovely place, and I can quite understand why you didn’t want to let it go. You’ve written a love letter to a place. Beautiful last light, and buildings and street life. Thank you yet again for your inexhaustible supply of treasures.

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    1. I dithered putting the last bits in place- sometimes happens 🙂 🙂 You always make the most wonderful company and I’m sure we could find many more delights there together. Thanks, darlin! Have a great week!

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