Jo’s Monday walk : A whizz around Beverley

Many of you had never heard of Beverley in East Yorkshire when I shared my recent visit to its magnificent Minster.  I’m back this morning to give you a whistlestop tour of the town.  Hold on to your hats!

It was another of those whims of mine that took me there on a coach trip one September day.  The journey seemed tortuous and I wondered why I was putting myself through it, but immediately I set foot inside the Minster I knew that it had been worthwhile.

I glimpsed the spires as we drove into town and as soon as the coach doors opened I was off and beelining for it.  I found the Tourist Information office on Butcher Row en route, and grabbed a map with details of the Beverley Town Trail.  Patience not being my middle name, when I realised that it gave a choice of 4 local walks I threw up my hands and just got on with the job.  Straight down Highgate brought me to the gates of the Minster.  It was a grey old sky, not bringing out the best of the old stone, yet the building had presence.

Bowled over by Beverley will take you inside, if you missed it.  Glancing at the map when I came out, I continued around the outside of the grounds to Minster Yard South.  I was quite surprised to find a grassy paddock with cows grazing contentedly, here in the middle of town.  I knew that it was a market town, but still, a little strange?  The white phonebox set a smile on my face as I continued onto Eastgate.

I detoured, as directed, on Friary Walk for a look at the former Friary, but this was planted firmly in the midst of a housing complex, and I did not loiter.  Back towards Wednesday Market- what an endearing name for the square, peaceful on a Thursday, with pavement cafes and coffee drinkers enjoying the mild temperatures.  On along Butcher Row, taking more notice this time of an interesting mix of shops and eating places.

I stopped occasionally to consult the trail guide, which was full of fascinating snippets of information.  Medieval Beverley was a wealthy town with a diverse population of skilled workers.  Carpenters, armourers, printers, locksmiths, weavers, hatters, brewers, ropemakers- the list is impressive and comprises 39 different medieval guilds.  Do you know what trade a fletcher pursued?  No- nor me! (He made arrows)  The trail encourages you to look for signs of each, but time was precious.  I was heading for Saturday Market and a handsome Market Cross.

It surprised me to read that Beverley was once the 10th largest town in England, and one of the richest, based on the wool industry and the pilgrims who came here to venerate its founder.  The town dates back to 700AD, when St. John of Beverley founded a monastery on the site of the Minster.

Market Cross sits most elegantly at the heart of the square known as Saturday Market, surrounded by attractive buildings.  Did you notice two more white telephone boxes?  Saturday is the main market day here and I can imagine traffic coming to a standstill.  Just beyond the square you can see the tower of St. Mary’s Church, and that’s where I headed next.  As luck would have it, closing was at 4, giving me half an hour to explore.

St. Mary’s was founded in 1120 and the foundations of the early Norman building are still visible in places.  A notable feature of the church are the stone carvings.  The Minstrel Pillar is shown below but I missed the carving of a rabbit dressed as a pilgrim, dated around 1330 and said to have been the inspiration for Lewis Carroll’s White Rabbit.  (You can see him on this link)  The vestry ceiling is painted to represent a map of the heavens, and reminded me of Polish churches I’ve seen.

Amazing to have such a beautiful church and the Minster in one small town.  The ceiling of the chancel is quite breathtaking and I was thrilled to be able to get close to the 28 wonderfully carved misericords.  And who can resist that humble donkey, waiting in the wings?

Take a breath!  The misericords next…

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My time in Beverley was running out, and looking at the trail guide it seems I’d covered most of the 4 walks.  I was disappointed not to have found the Beck and its shipping heritage, but a bonus was the logically named North Bar Within and North Bar Without.  They sandwich North Bar, the earliest brick built town entrance in England.

Heading back to the coach, there was just time to stick my nose in the Coronation Garden, formerly owned by St. Mary’s Church, which explains the headstones.  The benches were empty but I couldn’t stop.

I grabbed a takeaway coffee and a few munchies and subsided onto the bus home, via the Humber Bridge.  But that will have to wait for another time.  I’m off to the Algarve on Wednesday and not sure exactly when I’ll be posting again.

Did you manage to keep up?  I hope you enjoyed it.  I’m onto my second cup of coffee and I’m hoping you’ll do the same.  Put the kettle on and have a good read.  All of these are worth it so please do visit them.  Thank you so much to everyone who’s taken part and kept me company all these weeks.  I’ll be popping in on you when I can.

Starting with an introduction- meet Nadja and her scene stealing photos of Austria :

The Maltese Valley

Fantastic memories of one lovely lady, from another!  Thanks so much, Becky :

An evening stroll for Jo

What would you expect to find at a zoo?  Violet had a bit of a surprise :

At the zoo

I adore dates, and here’s Jackie teasing me with date cake!

Matrimonial cake

Are you an early morning jogger?  Ju-Lyn has the nicest surrounds to tempt you out of bed :

Guess who I met at the Singapore Botanic Gardens?

Candy has some really lovely walks in Brittany.  This is just one of many :

A walk around Landerneau

Kathrin is determined to hike Half Dome one day, but this looks just as good!

North Dome Hike

Carol’s finally finished her English adventures.  What next?  I think I know :

The Last Afternoon

Woolly has a wonderful way with our feathered friends :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Wk38_Balyang-Sanctuary-2

Bringing a bit of desert heat our way, I wish I was looking over Drake’s shoulder :

In the sand

And with even more sand in the picture, this is a real beauty from Karen, if a little strenuous!

The Three Beaches Walk

Putting up a gutsy performance and us dilettantes to shame, I’m ending on a real high with Lexie :

High Tatras High

Ending on a high is always a good way to go.  Take good care of yourselves, and I’ll be back before you know it.

175 comments

  1. Hecky thump girl, slow down… I’m out of breath following you around the town. Beverley looks lovely – how come I have never been there? I’m sure it has a race course so my dad must have frequented the place often enough. Thank you for showing me the misericords. One or two look similar to the Ludlow ones. I suppose the artisans followed some sort of pattern book. And I am sure that Alnwick has streets named Within and Without – around Bondgate. I wonder now how many more medieval towns have similar – York perhaps? Must have, surely? Anyway sorry for my tardiness, blame it on catching sight of the post late last night and then forgetting all about it today (same with Kaz’s Aussie beach trail – I must go back and read that properly too!)

    Safe journey tomorrow and have a lovely time in your second home. I’m not at all jealous.
    😉 😉

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    1. Ah-ha! La Belle Jude 🙂 🙂 You know I miss you and start to sulk when you don’t turn up. I’ve never come across within and without before and it quite tickled me, but you’re right- it must have happened! As must your dad at the races 🙂 It’s a bit out of the way is the problem (it took me 4 hours on the bus 😦 ). You have to go nearly all the way to Hull and then back up country. Nice though! Not going to be a great day today. There’s a lot of hanging about, because of the changed travel plans. We’ll have bags and won’t want to wander far and the weather sounds horrendous. There’s a pub with Wifi near the airport and we’ll probably loose a couple of hours there. Airports are deathly, aren’t they? And expensive. Mick can’t drink because we’re picking up a hire car at the other end. Mr. Cheerful tells me there’s a French air traffic control strike too. Shouldn’t make a difference but who knows. The good news is that this time tomorrow we’ll be there 🙂 🙂 And on Friday the Strollers are taking the ferry to Culatra and doing a beach walk. We don’t often join them but we’ll call it breaking ourselves in gently. 🙂 Mick says temp 29C. Ye Gods!

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  4. What a beautiful and quaint little town! So much history! You always make me miss Europe and in my head I’m starting to plan all these trips to the places I’ve never been. Thanks for the inspiration and the linkup. If I’ll make it up Half Dome, I’ll let you know asap 😉

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  5. Phew, I’m worn out! That was a speedy tour of what looks a great city. I’ll have to try a leisurely day there myself sometime.
    Have a great time in the Algarve Jo – will miss you!
    And I’ll have a walk up in the morning – can’t miss out on the last one for a while!
    Boa viagem!

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  7. How far was this center-of-town field with cows away from Butcher Row, I wonder? 🙂 White rabbits and white phone boots. Is there a correlation? And, the gate when entering St. Mary’s Church says “HENGATE” is that to mark the female entrance as opposed to the male entrance? I love how you just set off on a coach for a day of roaming around, Jo! What a great town to explore. Very animal-inspired for some reason. 🙂 Enjoy your time in the Algarve.

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    1. Pretty sure the Hengate will refer to the feathered kind, Liesbet. I have to say it’s rather unfortunate for the cows that they were in pretty close proximity to Butcher Row- well spotted 🙂 🙂 The next coach I hop aboard will be a Portuguese one, for Lisbon, and I’m really looking forward to that. Thank you!

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  10. Another eye-opener and a lovely town. You are introducing me to so much fresh territory. It’s clear we should be heading north for a good exploration. Didn’t get around to my Koroni walk yet, but will do 🙂

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      2. That’s a hard question, Andrew because they’re very different. Small is often preferable to me and this was exquisite. I wished I’d done a bit more research and known what to look for. It left a wonderful impression. 🙂

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  17. Sounds like it should be on Strictly Come Dancing – The Beverley Whizz? Or maybe a cocktail?!

    What a fabulous town, I’m going to add it to my list of places to explore up north when we finally get our act together and travel north again. Enjoy your Algarvian sojourn, and thank you so much for the lovely link xxx

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    1. I rather think I’d like a cocktail. I shall be the model of sophistication and take myself up to the rooftop bar at Porta Nova (as was 🙂 ). See- I’ve left Beverley behind already. Just had to get it out of my system. Hugs darlin! Take good care. I’ll be thinking about our January trip when we get back.

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      1. I’ll be thinking of you drinking a Beverley Whizz on Wednesday evening. Take a photo for me!
        Hope the flight is on time and not too busy xxx

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      2. Maybe Thursday! We don’t get in till late. Actually I shall be living the life of a pauper most of the time and the high life when we have guests 🙂 🙂

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  18. Thanks again for including me in your walks today! Meanwhile, your town ramble here reminds me how much I miss small, old places like this. Here in Texas, things are big and new, and things are set up for driving instead of walking. I often think I’ve landed in the wrong spot, but usually I just walk anyway, and people look at me like I’m nuts! Once again, have a great time in the Algarve!

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