If you’re a regular visitor to the Algarve, chances are that you will have bypassed Lagoa numerous times. Sitting just off the busy E125 road, it’s not somewhere that you would necessarily make a beeline for. So my husband looked at me askance when I asked if we might visit the town for Mercado de Culturas… A Luz das Velas – the ‘market of cultures… by candlelight’. I had never heard of the festival before, but it was apparently in its 4th year. This year’s theme, Rota de Seda -Silk Road, sounded inviting to me.
After a lazy beach day, we headed along on a sultry Sunday, for the last evening of this 4 day event, not entirely sure what to expect. Looking for parking, our first encounter was a bit of a surprise. Strong sunshine created deep shadows, even at 8 in the evening.
A small park with a war memorial leads to an imposing church. Few people are about and you begin to wonder if you are in the right place.
And then, turning a corner, the atmosphere changes discernibly and we have the first hint that something special might be about to happen. Rose coloured paving with white spots cannot disguise the fact that the area is shabby. On a raised platform there is a display of bonsai.
And, close by, the first of the unlit candle arrangements, laid out on boards on the floor, in a Chinese theme.
It wouldn’t start to get dark for another hour, so plenty of time to explore the narrow streets, and have a bite to eat. We wandered into the impressive Convento de São José, founded around 1710 by Carmelite nuns, who fostered and educated abandoned girls. There are beautiful cloisters and the surrounding rooms have been turned into a museum and exhibition space.
Street stalls offered an array of tempting food and artisans worked quietly beside their wares. A clattering of drums announced the arrival of two Chinese dragons, who cavorted and rolled winsomely at the feet of the laughing onlookers.
As dusk gathered there was a frisson of excitement. The first of the 12,000 candles were being lit. It would take quite some time, and a whole lot of effort, till all were burning brightly together.
Following the trail of candles, we come to a large square, with restaurants and a church whose interior glowed invitingly. Stepping inside to admire the white wood panelled ceiling and the medieval painting behind the altar, we are met with a ‘brother’. His face lights up as he tells us the history of his church, Igreja da Misericórdia, and the processions that celebrate Easter. We reassure him that we have a church of the same name in Tavira, and have enjoyed those same processions, and we part good friends.
The lights flicker on, ahead of us and behind. Watchful candle lighters step forward to replace guttered candles and the whole world glows.
Music ripples in the air and, as it grows darker, a Persian dancer twines her body in graceful poses and the night casts its spell. A small crowd are gathered in the doorway of a chapel, lit in a rosy hue. Serenely a lady plucks the strings of a lute.
I know that the merriment will continue till long after midnight on this warm evening, and find it hard to tear myself away. But we have a long journey home ahead, and I am thankful to have witnessed this wonderful celebration of light. I hope you enjoyed it too. Perhaps, if you should be in the Algarve next July, it’s one to look out for.
Thank you for your patience and support, especially those of you who have posted walks for me. I returned home late on Thursday and am still trying to find my UK groove. Time to put the kettle on and enjoy some great company. If you’d like to join me any time, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.
Are you a fan of trees? Let Geoff poetically show you one or two :
The Book of Trees#dulwich#trees#villagelife#poetry
Canada Day was a big one this year. This is how Jackie (and the big duck) celebrated :
Miriam has enjoyed every step of her Aussie adventure :
Stepping into a Magical Outback
Summer Solstice is always a bit special, isn’t it? Share a bonfire with Lady Lee :
I’m almost ashamed of myself not to have walked this. Debbie has (and Becky too!) :
Woolly continues his visits to the sadness of the war graves :
Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Wk27_Serre-Rd_No-2_Cemetery
Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Wk27_Serre Rd_No-2 Cemetery-Pt2
Lisa cheered me up with a return to her roots, and some cliff tops, not too very far from me :
And Jude’s usually cheerful (though occasionally grumpy). A bit more of Queen Mum’s old place?
Garden Portrait: Glamis Castle Italian Garden
It wouldn’t be a Monday walk without Drake, would it? Two more for you this week!
And speaking of architecture, look where Indra’s been!
Travelscapes -Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, New Brunswick
While, even further away, my lovely Meg dabbles her toes :
And in the stunning scenery of the Banf National Park, there’s another adventure with Sheri :
Tobias always comes up with something a little different :
I thought Amanda was taking her dog for a walk. Wrong again!
Walking on Straddie with Maddie
And who better to give you a tip or two than our intrepid Sue?
10 Tips Before Hiking Table Mountain, Capetown
Welcome back to Denzil, with some practical advice on walking in Belgium :
GR121 Stage 2 : La Roche (Brabant) to Nivelles
And to Susan, with her lyrical West Coast writing :
I know there are loads. That’s what happens when I take a break. Please find time to visit, especially anybody you don’t already know. I’m off to enjoy that rare commodity in the north east- a sunny day! Take care till next time.



Beautiful photos. I love the collection of candlelight photos. The Algarve is such a great region.
Peta
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We had such a lovely evening, Peta! The glow of candlelight transforms. 🙂 🙂
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Wow, what an interesting walk, Jo! I love all the lights.
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It was great to find something a bit different, Sue, and it had a terrific atmosphere. 🙂 🙂
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What an amazing place Jo! Must have been so beautiful at night!
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It was wonderfully atmospheric, Nicole. My kind of place. 🙂 🙂
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The lights flicker is just beautiful, Jo! I love the lion/dragon dancing. What a way to celebrate! 🙂
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It was such a beautiful evening, Amy! So much work to create all of this, and a wonderful atmosphere. It’s a joy to share. 🙂 🙂
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It’s wonderful to bring various culture activities together. 🙂
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Wonderful celebration, thanks for walking us through it, Jo. 12,000 candles!!
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I didn’t count, but it did seem an awful lot, Jet! And so beautiful 🙂 🙂 Happy to have your company.
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What a cool and fun adventure you’ve shared with us!! Loved reading and seeing all the candle photos too – never seen anything like that before so thanks!
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The Algarve spoils me sometimes! Where else I would find something like this, I don’t know, but I loved it. Glad you did too 🙂 🙂
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I really did – a lot!
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Sorry a bit late Jo – maybe for next week but no stress if not, https://lechicenrose.com/2017/07/16/promenade-by-the-lake/
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I’ll include it next week, Rosemay- thanks a lot! That’s normally the easiest way to do it. 🙂 🙂
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No problem at all Jo – have been meaning to join in for a while. Since we got back we have had renovations going on and I have been running around doing a lot of stuff but light at the end of the tunnel! Look forward to catching up on a Monday Walk next week 🙂
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What a wonderful celebration Jo – those mass of candles are so pretty. How lovely that there are so many of these village festivals in the Algarve – it looks a special evening 🙂
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I had no idea that the old side of Lagoa was there, Rosemay. It’s normally a place to pass straight by, so it was a lovely surprise to find it. 🙂 🙂
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Hidden gems like this are such a delight Jo – often you can live in a place for a while and have no idea they are there! Lovely find 🙂
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Wunderbare Impressionen von der Algarve, liebe Jo. Hab feine Sommertage!
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Danke, Ernst! Gleichfalls 🙂 🙂
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🙂
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Jo welcome back and hope you are getting back in the groove. I would love to see this magical light display. you do find such gems in your walks i have to say. Many kind thanks my friend for sharing our Cape Town hike up Table Mountain. so sweet of you to include it.
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I was grooving along nicely in unaccustomed English sunshine, Sue, but it’s not to be relied upon. I had a lovely Saturday afternoon at a Brass Band festival in Durham, in the refreshing rain. 🙂 🙂 One of the bands was Portuguese and they still smiled and sang along to Dixie, so I did too. Glad to include it, Sue. It’s on my list but heaven knows how old I might be before I get there. Hope things are going well for you.
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Perhaps you could send some of that rain to our neighboring province of British Columbia which has hundreds of wildfires burning. So sad. Meanwhile sending very best wishes and hoping one day you will be hiking Table Mountain yourself. XO
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And we had flash floods in Cornwall, Sue- when Jude wasn’t there to keep an eye on the place. Not everyone is happy and smiling. 😦
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Oh dear that’s terrible! Hoping everyone is safe.
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No casualties, Sue. Just a lot of distress.
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Thank goodness for small mercies.
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Well this was certainly different. I have never seen a candlelight festival before. How are you adjusting to being back in your northern home? Hot enough for you? I drove up to Donny today in the heat – shirt sticking to my back by the time I got here! And supposedly hotter tomorrow and maybe thunderstorms! All I need! Will reply to your e tomorrow, but all’s well so far…
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I adjust to sunshine very easily Jude but I don’t think it’ll last long up here. Glad you like my glowing post. Will keep my fingers crossed for you xxx
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Wonderful! Thank you! This reminds me I’ll write to my friend in Algarve. Of course she can tell me more about this.
Ellington
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Always so much going on in the summer, Arletta. This was a great find. 🙂
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I wrote to my friend in Algarve yesterday, but she didn’t know about this. You must be lucky to have found it!
Ellington
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When I’m there I always go to the Tourist Information and pick up the leaflet of the events for that month. There really are loads! 🙂
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Awesome post and so marvelous photos. I think that we have passed Lagoa, but I do not remember – it is so long time ago.
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It’s not one of the more tourist spots, except when the trade fair FATACIL takes place each year. I was surprised and delighted with this festival, Sartenada. 🙂 🙂
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What a magical find – so glad you discovered it for all of us 🙂
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Always something interesting, Becky :). 🙂 As we were coming away the Enchanted Nights was set to start at Cacela Velha. The Heritage opening keeping you busy?
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Yes!!!! Hence my tardy reply – so sorry xxx
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What a beautiful reward – to witness the combined effect of so many candles, so many designs and the calming effect on all…. our world needs more of this kind of quiet magic.
As always, thanks for these journeys.
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Quiet magic is right, Lisa 🙂 🙂 4 nights of lighting them all and the setting up beforehand is quite an undertaking. I loved being there and watching it happen. 🙂 How are things with you?
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Like thousands, I too am ‘misplaced’ but my options are so many and so vast that I’m being ‘ticky’ with my search for a new place to call home. that lake area, which is about four or more hours by car from jama, is calling me, and i will probably return tomorrow…. until then, it’s one day at a time, and each day a special one.
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I’d heard of Lagoa , but never visited the place…This is one of the most atmospheric celebrations I’ve ever seen, loved every bit of your story and photos and insert Lagoa in my list…..
Thanks for this share!
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It’s quite a shabby area, Anna, so it was lovely to see everyone enjoying this so much. You don’t need a lot of money to enjoy yourself, do you? 🙂 🙂 Have a good week!
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Same back to you, dear JO!
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What a beautiful festival Jo, I bet Hubby is glad that you went 🙂
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D’you know, he didn’t find the place half as charming as I did, Sam. No pleasing some people! 😦 Of course, he did have to drive there.
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That’s a shame Jo but at least you enjoyed it 😉
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Lovely photos Jo! What a sweet town, and what a beautiful festival. Your intuition to go check it out was obviously right.
Alison
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There are so many festivities in the Algarve across the summer, Alison, but I was really pleased to find this one. So pretty, and atmospheric. Thanks a lot! 🙂 🙂
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What a wonderful atmosphere you’ve created with words and photos as you take us along with you. The candles are beautiful and I love the labour-intensivity of their lighting. As always, a stroll of wonderful variety. Who’s have expected Chinese dragons? Hugs from rooster-crowing Stanthorpe.
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I love candles and Chinese dragons almost equally, Meg, so I was cock-a-hoop when they arrived. There’s such a wildness to them, but cuddly too. 🙂 🙂 Mick wasn’t especially keen to go because it was a bit of a drive, but I was so glad we did. Now are these Chinese roosters or Portuguese ones? Are you familiar with the symbol of Barcelo? Very colourful! 🙂 🙂 Lazy afternoon in the garden hugs…
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Australian roosters I think! I checked out the Portuguese ones. Colourful indeed. Hugs from winter-at-last.
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Winter? We’ve just gotten over a heatwave- ask Jude! She was driving in it yesterday, poor love. More normal here this morning, but we are a-typical, I suspect. Thundery showers almost certain for when I go out to t’ai chi at 9. 🙂 🙂 I shall sing in the rain.
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what a great walk, Jo. you captured in photos this beautiful celebration Jo! the candles are magical! thank you. 🙂
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I was so happy to find this, LolaWi. I’d never seen anything like it before. Glad you enjoyed it too 🙂 🙂
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