Looking down on the Duomo

My only real disappointment in Florence came with the Duomo.  I arrived too late in the day to be able to climb high into Brunelleschi’s dome to see for myself this amazing construction.  I had to be content with worshipping from the ground, but I knew that there was more than one place to admire from.  Palazzo Vecchio provided a perfect viewing platform, and so much more.

Funny to think of this grandiose building as the town hall of Florence, but so it is. Built in 1299 as Palazzo della Signoria, to house the ruling body of the Republic of Florence, the Signoria, its fortress-like appearance belies the opulence inside. Much of this was added when Duke Cosimo 1 de Medici made it his official residence in 1540.

Intrigue was rife and in 1549 Cosimo moved his family across the River Arno to the security of Palazzo Pitti, renaming his former residence Palazzo Vecchio. The ‘Old Palace’ houses many secrets.  Can you imagine the extreme need for privacy that led to the commissioning of an above-ground ‘hidden’ walkway?  The Vasari Corridor leads from Palazzo Vecchio, through the Uffizzi, and across Ponte Vecchio to the Pitti Palace.

Impossible to orchestrate the full history of this palace, but come with me to whet your appetite a little.

And we’ve barely reached the cloisters!  In the vast ground floor space I was challenged as to which ticket to purchase.  ‘Tower plus Museum’ sent me off in the direction of my first flight of steps, while the other half reclined with a coffee.

A statue beckons from a niche, and in no time I’m on a level with the roofs of Florence.  The 94 metre high tower sits on the solid structure below and contains 2 small cells.  Savonarola was detained here before his trial.  A not too challenging stairwell leads you upwards until you are atop the tower, with sweeping views across Florence, even on a grey day.  I watched the clouds anxiously as I knew the tower is closed if it rains.

The impact of the Salone dei Cinquecento  defies description. Built in the 15th century to house Maggiore Consiglio, Florence’s legislative assembly, the ‘Hall of the 500’ is still used today for ceremonial events.  Folding chairs sit in the hush, while you try to take in the wonder of Michelangelo and his contemporaries, all around you.

Using my Museum ticket I was free to go at my own pace.  A circuit of the palace takes you through a sequence of splendour, each ceiling a work of art, the walls bathed in beauty.  The culmination is a view down into the hall from the second floor. Breathtaking!

Through realms of fantasy, pomp and splendour to Eleanora’s private apartments and chapel. Did ever a family live in such style?

And then the Room of the Elements.  You don’t have to be an art lover to be spellbound by this place.  Not for everybody, the style and eloquence of the de Medici’s.  But you can’t help but be snared by the imagination and sheer daring of these people.

I don’t want to spoil it for you by revealing more.  I can only urge that if you find yourself in Florence, you dedicate a little time to Palazzo Vecchio. You can take a number of tours that delve deeper into the history, or simply do as I did.  And it is a simply splendid place to be Atop Florence.

129 comments

  3. So over the top Jo and I love it! The frescoed ceilings and walls are so incredible, I find I get a sore neck in some of those buildings because I’m always looking up. What a grand view of duomo and piazza, will have to make the climb myself should I find myself in Florence again.

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  6. Mesmerising photos, Jo – the opulence and creativity of Palazzo Pitti is wondrous indeed. The secret walkway is a delight which we enjoyed on our trip and we also didn’t get to see the inside of the Dumo. However, our hotel had a dining area outside on the roof overlooking the Dumo and at Easter we sat and listened to the fireworks let off inside – amazing!

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    1. Palazzo Vecchio was one of the highlights of my visit, Annika. I wasn’t sure that I wanted to climb the narrow stairwell in the Duomo and the palace tower made a good substitute. We did stand inside and gaze up at Brunelleschi’s handiwork. The fireworks sound fun and I’m sure the festival in June must be amazing to see. But busy, of course. 🙂 🙂

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    1. It was about 3 in the afternoon, I think, Andrew, because we’d already been up to Piazzale Michelangelo and the Fort and got lost in a few side streets. We made do with a gelato on a bench admiring the Duomo after a look inside 🙂 🙂

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  10. Sorry you didn’t get the chance to make the climb up into the Dome Jo, but I loved the panoramic view you shared with us with it in the center. This post has made me so excited to visit Venice next week. Can’t wait!

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  11. bisogna visitare Firenze e la sua arte, senza di questo non si può pienamente capire, anche se le tue immagini sono veramente splendide, in particolare quelle del salone dei 500! impossibile non rimanere contagiati da tanto splendore assommatori nella storia dei secoli
    ti ringrazio Giovanna, un grande abbraccio amichevole

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    1. Buon giorno, Annalisa 🙂 I am working on a post for tomorrow’s walk in a place you know and love. I think it will take me a long time to get the details right. I had forgotten how much I love Italy. Sending you huge hugs and thank you for your kindness 🙂 🙂

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    1. Palazzo Vecchio? It’s impossible to know what the inside contains, Alison. I had watched a TV series- Italy’s Invisible Cities- in which they showed the Vasari Corridor and all of Florence in 3D visual imaging. It was an incredible programme, but I was still staggered to see the reality. The links in the post will give you many more details. 🙂 🙂 How are you doing?

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  14. I loved the post Jo but especially one of your replies in the comments about being whipped over the head with beauty. Rather stunning I’m sure to have all of this astounding art and architecture all about.

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  15. Well I think the Duomo view from here is much better than being inside it. (what do I know!) and the inside of this place is not what I’d have expected from the outside. Thanks for climbing the tower as I won’t be doing that. And thanks for all the wonderful artwork including the naughty bits and the cherubs. I have a soft spot for cherubs 🙂

    (I shall have to do some reading about Florence and the Medicis etc before I visit as I know nothing!)

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    1. The cherubs are for you. I know you like them 🙂 🙂 (and I’m quite partial myself) I wasn’t sure that I fancied being scrushed in a narrow 2 way space actually, but if I could have got a ticket I’d have given it a go. That’s my middle name. 🙂
      I would recommend Palazzo Vecchio over the Uffizzi, probably, Jude, though that may be sacrilege. Certainly packs a punch. Happy weekend!

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  17. So sorry to hear that you couldn’t climb Duomo but you got to see Palazzo Vecchio. What a view, and look at all the architecture. It must be a desperate idea back then to built an above-ground hidden walkway. So you got a ticket. Did you end up going up the steps? 😀

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  18. Amazing and fabulous as ever Jo 🙂 Hope you get to see at least some parts of Anglesey next week – I look forward to some photos in due course 🙂

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    1. Thanks, Eunice 🙂 Home again! It was just a flying visit, sadly, but it was highly amusing that we were based at Cemaes, just below Parys mine. Lovely little spot 🙂 Happy weekend!

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  19. What an amazing set of photos you’ve managed to take Jo! Some of those angles! You’re really captured the opulence and grandiosity of the de Medicis not to mention the intrigue and machinations! I must get back to Florence one day and really appreciate it with a more “mature” perspective (as an 18 year old backpacker had no money to go anywhere!). Hope you’ve had a good week and wishing you a lovely weekend xx

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    1. Hiya darlin! 🙂 I don’t know when I last spent so much time looking up! I wonder if the de Medicis did or if they took it all for granted? Imagine living with all that! When would I find time to eat toast? 🙂 🙂
      Thanks for your kind words, hon. We drove down to Anglesey midweek to spend some time with friends so my feet have been in constant explore mode. Chores and chilling this weekend. How about you?

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      1. I can’t imagine actually living in somewhere as grand as that Jo but I suppose that is what they were used to! A very different perspective! Anglesey would have made a lovely break – last went there years ago for a couple of family holidays! Quite a quiet weekend and it is damp and rainy today – heading out to an engagement party later which fortunately is indoors. Hope to get a walk in before then too! Enjoy your weekend downtime! 🙂

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    1. After photo, after photo, Carol! 🙂 I stuck my nose in for a quick look before we went into the Uffizzi, not sure if we’d have time or if I could get tickets. It was still officially closed but I loved my first glimpse. We spent a couple of hours in the Uffizzi till it started to get busier and our heads were spinning with art and then we were heading for Boboli gardens. The ticket office didn’t even have a queue when we came back and I absolutely loved the place. I would recommend it to anybody. And yes- I finally got to climb a tower and look down on those pretty roofs. 🙂 🙂

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