Looking down on the Duomo

My only real disappointment in Florence came with the Duomo.  I arrived too late in the day to be able to climb high into Brunelleschi’s dome to see for myself this amazing construction.  I had to be content with worshipping from the ground, but I knew that there was more than one place to admire from.  Palazzo Vecchio provided a perfect viewing platform, and so much more.

Funny to think of this grandiose building as the town hall of Florence, but so it is. Built in 1299 as Palazzo della Signoria, to house the ruling body of the Republic of Florence, the Signoria, its fortress-like appearance belies the opulence inside. Much of this was added when Duke Cosimo 1 de Medici made it his official residence in 1540.

Intrigue was rife and in 1549 Cosimo moved his family across the River Arno to the security of Palazzo Pitti, renaming his former residence Palazzo Vecchio. The ‘Old Palace’ houses many secrets.  Can you imagine the extreme need for privacy that led to the commissioning of an above-ground ‘hidden’ walkway?  The Vasari Corridor leads from Palazzo Vecchio, through the Uffizzi, and across Ponte Vecchio to the Pitti Palace.

Impossible to orchestrate the full history of this palace, but come with me to whet your appetite a little.

And we’ve barely reached the cloisters!  In the vast ground floor space I was challenged as to which ticket to purchase.  ‘Tower plus Museum’ sent me off in the direction of my first flight of steps, while the other half reclined with a coffee.

A statue beckons from a niche, and in no time I’m on a level with the roofs of Florence.  The 94 metre high tower sits on the solid structure below and contains 2 small cells.  Savonarola was detained here before his trial.  A not too challenging stairwell leads you upwards until you are atop the tower, with sweeping views across Florence, even on a grey day.  I watched the clouds anxiously as I knew the tower is closed if it rains.

The impact of the Salone dei Cinquecento  defies description. Built in the 15th century to house Maggiore Consiglio, Florence’s legislative assembly, the ‘Hall of the 500’ is still used today for ceremonial events.  Folding chairs sit in the hush, while you try to take in the wonder of Michelangelo and his contemporaries, all around you.

Using my Museum ticket I was free to go at my own pace.  A circuit of the palace takes you through a sequence of splendour, each ceiling a work of art, the walls bathed in beauty.  The culmination is a view down into the hall from the second floor. Breathtaking!

Through realms of fantasy, pomp and splendour to Eleanora’s private apartments and chapel. Did ever a family live in such style?

And then the Room of the Elements.  You don’t have to be an art lover to be spellbound by this place.  Not for everybody, the style and eloquence of the de Medici’s.  But you can’t help but be snared by the imagination and sheer daring of these people.

I don’t want to spoil it for you by revealing more.  I can only urge that if you find yourself in Florence, you dedicate a little time to Palazzo Vecchio. You can take a number of tours that delve deeper into the history, or simply do as I did.  And it is a simply splendid place to be Atop Florence.

129 comments

  1. Oooh magnifico Tesoro! You couldn’t have known where to look next, everywhere is beautiful and so photogenic. You really packed a lot in, no wonder M was overwhelmed. I like going up towers etc as well and I suspect I’ll be going on my own 🙂 I think my head will be swimming if I try to do too much of the art, so I might have to choose between a couple of places.
    Your photos get better and better, you have a good eye and a talent for composition. Thanks for these posts, they’re a real delight x:-)x

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    1. Hiya honeybun! You ok? It does seem a lot, looking at the photos, but I’m not good at sitting about when there are lovely places to explore. (unless I have wonderful company like yourself, of course 🙂 ) Just wait till you get back and we compare notes on how many photos we took! We only did Uffizzi and this one- back to back as it happened, and I’d have to say that this was better, probably because it was so unexpected and just downright beautiful. The tours include back scenes skullduggery and come highly recommended, Gilly, but we just went in ‘on spec’. I was desperate to climb a tower. 🙂 🙂

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      1. Ahhm I might just skip the Uffizzi then, I need to be outside, wandering and watching. When we met I was already a bit sick, I’m more energetic and myself now! Havng said that, i’m shattered right this minute, year end and lack of bodies in my office is wearing. Heyho it’s the weekend and I’ve got a leather bag to stitch, love ya honey xx

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  2. Another stunning Florence post. You can be my virtual guide any day. The photos are superb and so clear. I’m always startled by the tree-clad hills in the distance. I love the view down into the square, and your ceiling shots are amazing. Your prose is as always fluid. Thank you. As for your query on Viveka’s blog, I have three Warsaw posts under construction, and then I’ll direct you back to wherever I decide to take up cyber-residence. Brain and technology are still a bit compromised.

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    1. I did realise, reading Jude’s comments, that sleep and reorientation would play a major part, Meg. I’m beaming at you because so long as I know you’re ok I’ll wait patiently. This took me all morning to construct because my photos aren’t in a desirable order and my head was still somewhere in Wales. Best place for it, some might say! Hugs, sweetheart 🙂 🙂

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  3. Your enthusiastic posts on Florence are really inviting…..
    You really know how to appreciate Art and how to capture amazing takes….
    Thanks , from a Milanese Lady , fallen in love with Florence……

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    1. You are a sweetheart! Just one more arty post to come on the Uffizzi and lots of ‘miscellaneous bits’ that might never see the light of day, Anna. Have a great weekend! 🙂 🙂

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      1. Same back to you!
        As I told you last week , I’m in Ferrara for a few days…
        The town is beautiful worth to be visited….

        Medieval and Renaissance art , everywhere, nice people , nice food!

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      1. Coping. Better. I’m trying to learn to concentrate on the now, not the future which scares me alone, and not the past where I miss my husband so much. Just now. Focus, Focus, Focus.

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      2. And I’m writing, and painting and making sure I stay connected with people. They say I’m doing all the right things. Now I wait on time. Thank you for asking, Jo.

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  4. Beautiful beautiful Firenze, beautifully photographed! Jo and I never dared to climb up, but Andrea our youngest daughter did. Felt happy to see your photos, but also sad, that maybe after so many many visits to this beautiful city we may not make it back there again – but our memories, nobody can take.

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    1. I have so many memories, Carina, and some I won’t be able to share here, for fear people die of boredom. Life moves on and already I have been to Anglesey since Florence, and am only a week away from another Algarve visit. It seems to be all or nothing with me 🙂 🙂

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  5. Wow! What a treat, Jo. The views of the Duomo and the decor and paintings in Palazzo Vecchio are magnificent, especially that last painting, which you captured so well. I know you are still enthralled! 🙂

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    1. Haven’t dared share the Uffizzi yet, Cathy! It’s like being hit over the head with beauty 🙂 🙂 Just got back from Anglesey yesterday evening, with lots of pretty seaside shots. They’ll have to wait 🙂 All well with you? Containing the excitement? I need a mega catch up this weekend.

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    1. I’m not a sufferer, Kate, as you can no doubt tell, and that window was actually quite narrow. I was up close 🙂 🙂 Possibly the most amazing place I have ever been inside. (sheltered life? 🙂 🙂 If I went back I’d take one of the many tours. Not underground because crypts and the like don’t do it for me.

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      1. I just go dizzy. Years ago I didn’t. Skipped up the leaning tower of Pisa, no prob, no barriers on the crazy floors. Old age? Who knows. I imagine falling out of the narrowest of spaces, because actually you can. I blame it on my parents tbh, but I won’t get into that.
        Vatican? That’s pretty good. Taj Mahal? I’m not sure you can go inside ruins but I loved the Parthenon. Depends on taste. I liked the Conciergerie in Paris. And the royal palace in Madrid struck me as surreal. Although not as surreal as the Dali place in Figueres.
        Don’t tell me you have claustrophobia?! I think crypts are interesting, but it’s the history, or what purports to be the history.
        Anyway, good hol in Firenze eh?

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      2. Not done Rome, Agra or Madrid. Lots of scope for me yet- ha! Lost my handbag, with passport inside, at the Parthenon. Colours your outlook! We were flying home that day too. Not claustrophobic as such but I’m not fond of caves, subterranean and bones. Time team is interesting but they are forever digging up skellies and I hate it. There- that’s my petty prejudices for now. Loved Florence and I think you can probably tell. Just returned from Anglesey yesterday. My life is all or nothing 🙂

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      3. Did you travel when you were young? Yeah Anglesey is nice actually. I know, been there, done that, shut up RS.
        Your Parth story sounds like one of Andrew’s in Athens. Greek banks were a pain. I tried crying 😥😥cut no ice. Got there in the end. Funny country.

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    1. You cannot imagine the inside, Debs! You simply have to be there. 🙂 🙂 I saw your great Atop post this morning but didn’t have time to stop. I’ll be over later.

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    1. I felt like I’d been walloped over the head with beauty that day, Jill! I had already been to the Uffizzi that morning, so climbing the tower was light relief 🙂 🙂 I know- not for vertigo sufferers. I’m sorry!

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