If there’s anything that really annoys me it’s leaving home in clear blue skies to drive to the Yorkshire Dales and encounter grey, dampness. But if you’re in search of a waterfall then you can’t really begrudge a little rain. And to visit Hardraw Force you have to pass through a pub, so you might say there are compensations.
I don’t know the village of Hawes at all but it is surrounded by magnificent, sweeping countryside, though visibility was poor on this particular day. 850 feet above sea level, it claims to be England’s highest, and has been home to a market since 1307. Go on a Tuesday if you’re a market fan. The name Hawes means ‘a pass between mountains’, in this case endearingly-named Buttertubs and Fleet Moss.
I’m heading for Hardraw but, on Town Head, a sign for Gayle’s Mill strikes a chord with me. In 2004 it was a finalist on the BBC TV ‘Restoration’ programme. It was but a short diversion to take a look.
Unfortunately this was as close as I could get. Gayle Mill is a working saw mill, and can only be visited by guided tour. Even the craft shop was closed. The Wensleydale Creamery Visitor Centre, a highly popular venue, is nearby and I gave it a wistful look. I do love a good bit of cheese.
Water flows through the village and is harnessed by the mill, which dates from 1784. In the 1900s it pioneered electricity generation and brought light to the valley. Just then the sky was darkening rapidly and it seemed like a good time to move on.
You could retrace your steps down Gayle Lane, but a pretty little footpath offers an alternative route back to Town Foot. And sheep!
Hardraw Force is clearly signed from the crossroads, so it was best foot forwards into a chilly breeze. I told myself it was holding off the rain.
There’s often a wind off the water, isn’t there? I turned left into the field and trod carefully till I reached the flagstones.
It’s not far till you pass through a gate and the pub is right there, in front of you.
The sign says ‘innkeeper and waterfall provider’. That’s quite a claim, isn’t it? At £2.50 a person, is it a little mercenary? Let’s see if it delivers.
One of the best sounds for me is rushing water. Rounding the corner from the Green Dragon Inn, I can already hear the tumult of the falls. England’s highest single drop waterfall sits in a great bowl of limestone, shale and sandstone.
Incredible to think that the process that produced this landscape began some 340 million years ago. Alternating layers were laid down in the warm seas of those times, and through the rise and fall of the land and some glacial activity the Karst scenery developed. At the back of the waterfall it’s possible to see the individual layers.
Did you wave back? I did! And then I crossed over the bridge and followed the path back along the opposite bank. It was really busy in the Green Dragon Inn, so I didn’t linger, though it did look characterful. I was surprised at how many people had ventured out on such a grey day, and can only surmise that this will be a seriously busy place in summer. But the waterfall will be much diminished.
I just about made it back before the rain hit. The waterfall will be thundering for a few days yet.
Hawes lies along the A684 from Leyburn in the Yorkshire Dales. The map on this link will give you a few clues. Time to get the kettle on!
Thanks everybody for kindly accompanying me each week, come hail come shine (but hopefully no snow!). It’s always a pleasure to have you along. I have some more great contributions this week. Please spare a little time to go visit, especially if they’re new to you. Details, as usual, are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. I’d love you to join me with a walk of your own.
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Lady Lee is always a few steps ahead of me! Have you been to Dresden?
Jude has a delightful saunter in search of cake this week :
Sleaford Historic Riverside Walk
I prefer sunshine, but Shazza’s found something interesting even on a cloudy day :
I don’t think I’d do much walking in Amsterdam. I’d hop a boat, like Woolly :
Jo’s-Monday-walk-2017-Amsterdam-wk 3
Jackie and glitz go together, don’t you think?
In pure contrast, I never saw snow look more beautiful! Thanks so much, Drake!
This week we have a Wild Daffodil joining us. Sound like fun? Do go and say hello!
Becky has laid on a lovely sunset for her wander round Olhao, because…
And if you’ve never seen Lisbon before, Paula’s photo is a magnificent place to start :
If you glory in wild and wonderful scenery, you will love this, from Jessica :
And Inese shows us drama in Ireland, rain, shine and rainbow!
That’s it for another week. It’s been a grey one here but I’m sure Spring is on its way. Enjoy your life, won’t you, whatever the weather?
restlessjo 
The sound of the water gushing must have been spectacular. Fabulous walk💖 Thanks for sharing.
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Waterfalls are always fascinating, aren’t they? I love it once I can hear the sound 🙂
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Such lovely, atmospheric places. Have you ever checked out the walks on this blog? I think you’ll enjoy his exploration of the old roman roads and historic marker stones scattered throughout the area he lives in in England, near the Yorkshire Dales. (He photographs Scotland and Wales too) https://smackedpentax.wordpress.com/
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Yes, I know the blog. Beautiful, wild countryside 🙂 We’re just north of the Yorkshire Moors so I know them better, Sheri.
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Great walk, Jo. Love the stone buildings, they look stunning!
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Thank you very much 🙂 It’s a lovely spot.
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A walk which brings you through a pub now that’s unusual. I haven’t seen many waterfalls but they are hypnotic close up so my tendency it to stop and stare and listen to the roar.
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I’m a fan 🙂 (of pubs and waterfalls 🙂 )
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At the risk of sounding like a broken record, your pix are “lovely, stunning, beautiful, picturesque,” etc., etc., etc.!
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That’s always music to my ears, so thank you very much 🙂
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A lovely rainy day walk, Jo. It’s funny that you had to walk through the pub to get to the waterfall. I would have stopped for a drink for sure.
By the way, I have a walk, finally, to add to your Monday walk. Nothing like writing about it nearly two months after the fact. https://catbirdinamerica.wordpress.com/2017/02/19/philadelphia-the-south-mural-arts-walk/
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Fantastic Cathy! Laptop is off for the night and I’m 5 minutes from going to bed but I’ll add it in the morning. Thank you xx
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I was sure I commented on these stunning photos of yours, Jo but I can’t find it. Our internet has been a bit dodgy recently so perhaps it didn’t actually go through. The light in the sky over the dales is just beautiful. Here’s my new walk – it’s actually a combo walk/bus/walk in Liverpool. https://theeternaltraveller.wordpress.com/2017/02/19/when-is-a-walk-not-a-walk/
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You do usually comment, Carol, and I’m very grateful for your support. I’m just starting to put together my walk for tomorrow so your timing is good. Sounds like fun! 🙂
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Beautiful pictures and loved the narration throughout!!
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Thank you so much. Mithai. 🙂 That’s kind of you. Have a great weekend!
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My pleasure☺ Wishing you a fun weekend too❤
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You always take us on the must blissful of walks. Between the sheep in the misty pasture and the waterfall, I didn’t want it to end. Sorry the weather put a damper on this walk.
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This was back in December, Karen, and I’ve been sitting on it while I posted Algarve walks. The UK has its share of beauty, just not quite so predictable weatherwise. Thanks for the kind words. 🙂
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Picturesque even on a cloudy day. I enjoyed that walk Jo, and I love the name of that pub and the signage. I grew up in a small country town called Beechwood, the name of the pub was very uninspiring, it was ‘The Beechwood Hotel’. Have a great weekend Jo! 🙂
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It definitely blew the cobwebs away, Sam! 🙂 The pub was old style with bare flag stones and a real fire with the Christmas tree in the corner, and nooks and crannies to poke in. Bit fraught here, Sam. Our son is having major problems with his employer and we’re a bit helpless. Hope it’s not too hot for you?
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Summer hanging on Jo but nights are a little cooler. Hope things improve for your son, it doesn’t sound like a good situation to be in.
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Thank you 🙂
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What a fabulous place you have brought us to this week, Jo. Worth the walk for that sign alone ‘innkeeper and waterfall provider’. Marvelous.
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There can’t be too many about, Tish 🙂 🙂
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Yes, I’m with you Jo. Nothing beats the sound of running water. A lovely walk you took us on.
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Thanks, darlin 🙂 Just come back from a rather lovely walk under huge clouds and would you believe it, the sun’s now out? 😦
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Perfect. Soak up all those rays 🙂
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