Cork or costume, in São Brás de Alportel?

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The Museu do Traje, or Costume Museum, in São Brás de Alportel is quite a fascinating place. Housed in a beautiful nineteenth century palace, I was aware of it’s existence but had never before managed to be in the right place at exactly the right time.  A cool, but sunny, Sunday afternoon proved just perfect.  At 2.15pm a cheerful gentleman wielding a huge metal key unlocked the graceful gates and the voyage of discovery began.

Elaborate high ceilings and chandeliers stop me in my tracks.  I’m not sure what I was expecting but the style and shape of the doorways pins an instant smile to my face.  In the first small foyer an exhibition, ‘The Wheels of Time’, sets the scene.  Beyond this I step into the fashion plates of an old world magazine.  I know that my daughter would be in her element here, and try to capture some of the details for her.

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In a darkened alcove I find two stunning Art Nouveau pieces.  A corridor leads from here to a kitchen, laid out with local produce for sale.

But for me the detail that I most enjoy is the way that the shutters fold open over the delicate glass panels above the doors.  The sunlight through the windows makes those shadows sing. And don’t miss the keyhole, will you?

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Just when I think that I’ve seen all the delights available and am about to step outside, the curator beckons me in some agitation.  I have missed something crucial.  You see, this isn’t only a costume museum.  It is also the home of cork.

I’m led out of a side door and across to a large barn.  A screen is suspended in the centre and at the push of a button a film begins.  It demonstrates the whole process of cork production, from the growth of the oaks, the periodic cutting of the bark, the boiling to kill tanins and the pressing and cutting into the final products.  It is an incredible tribute to man’s ingenuity. Within the barn are a variety of displays.  A huge press presides over a selection of harnesses and carriages.  Outside, a pleasant garden offers more.

A modern auditorium has been added to the grounds and Sunday evenings host a programme of concerts.  A jazz musician is setting up as I depart. In addition there are lessons in everything from making bobbin lace to bridge classes and choir throughout the week.  It’s good to see the local community getting behind the upkeep of this lovely property.  I hope you’ve enjoyed looking around with me and, for those who might be interested, I’ve enclosed a video telling a little more about the life of cork.

P.S If you’d like to know a little more about the history of the building take a look at Becky’s post.  She managed some great research.

90 comments

      1. yes… I would not – but I do wonder.
        I had so much fun looking at all the details here. that old sideboard (or buffet) has my favorite color wood – a dark walnut maybe?

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  3. I love the costumes of past eras! I used to work at a historical park here in Texas and wore clothing in the style of the 1830s and 1890s at times, and no it wasn’t too hot! All that cloth keeps you insulated from the hot air, I think, and also, the natural fibers breathe so nicely.
    But I really love seeing the authentic clothing and the beautiful detailing, so thank you for sharing!

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  4. When I saw that first image with the wire framed mannequin I immediately thought of your Lisa. Does she ever visit Tavira with you? This certainly looks like her kind of place. My favourites have to be the ceiling, the doors and fanlights and of course that keyhole and door knocker! Do you reckon Rafa will be joining Roger on Sunday?

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    1. They did visit once, Jude, before Leo took ill, and if we do make the move I know that she’ll love this place. As do I 🙂
      Very nervous this morning, just thinking about the match, but we’ll soon know. Roger and Stan were amazing to watch. Funny in the interview after when Roger said it was only a couple of months since they were at Rafa’s tennis academy playing a kid’s event. Him on one leg and Raf with one hand, they could just about keep up with the youngsters. 🙂 🙂

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  5. What a strange time for a museum to open… I could see this in French countries or islands, where the lunch break is extensive. Maybe in Portugal as well? Did you try one on, Jo? I mean a costume, not a cork!

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    1. I think they open for a couple of hours in the morning too, Liesbet. Very laidback and we had the place entirely to ourselves so you can’t blame them. 🙂 Sadly there wasn’t a dressing up corner. Missing a trick cos there often are these days, for the kids at least 🙂

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  6. What a fascinating find – wonderful architecture and interesting history. The clothes standing on models like that are a little eerie though – don’t think I’d like to visit at night!

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  13. This is my kind of place to visit. I find it interesting to see how people used to live and dress. What a stunning place the museum is housed in. Love the chandelier.

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    1. You did a post, didn’t you? I was going to link up but couldn’t find it from your search box. These things never work, do they? I should have popped over and asked but I have half an eye on the tennis and just wanted to get the post up. Sorry! 😦

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