Jo’s Monday walk : Water of Leith, Edinburgh

img_3024

I do find Edinburgh an entrancing city, and one that has so many aspects!  I hopped off the train at Waverley Station into dire Scots weather, determined to make the most of my two days.  Holyrood Palace was on my list, and I reveled in all of its history.  A proposed hike up Arthur’s Seat was doomed by the veil of mist, but I still had another card up my sleeve.  There’s something mysterious sounding about the Water of Leith, and I was all set to unravel the mystery.

“A silver thread in a ribbon of green”.  How inviting that sounds.  The Water of Leith Walkway extends for 12 and a half miles, the river rising in the Pentland Hills, and flowing out to sea at the Port of Leith.  I intended to walk only part of its length, as my accommodation was close to an access point at Dean Bridge.  Designed by Thomas Telford and built in 1832, the bridge loftily spans a gorge, en route for South Queensferry.  I could see the pathway, winding beneath the bridge, but no obvious way down there, as private gardens border the river.  I had to backtrack, down through Dean Village, only to find that section closed due to subsidence.

Dean Village is the site of Lindsay’s Mill, one of eleven water-powered mills that rumbled through this valley in the 17th century.  The weir held back the flow of water to drive the mills.  Nowadays the area has been converted to smart modern homes but reminders of the past are everywhere, if you look.  Bell’s Brae was a granary, built in 1675.  I left the dog having his splash in the water and climbed back up to the bridge.  When a nice old gentleman pointed me in the direction of Stockbridge, I set off to rejoin the walkway.

I love the feeling of being in the countryside, in the middle of the city, and it wasn’t long before I’d edged away from smart Stockbridge and its stylish waterside homes.  Arboretum Avenue hints strongly at the Botanic Gardens, not too far away.   The path dodges and weaves from one river bank to another, and I’m pleased to spot a reassuring sign.  Still on track!

There are bridges aplenty and I’m rather glad I’d printed off details of the walk, or I’d never be sure when to cross over.  The terraced houses are the Stockbridge Colonies, originally built by a cooperative to provide low cost housing for mill workers. At Canonmills I again leave the river, to cross a busy street and yet another bridge.  My attention is caught by a young man, whose eyes are fixed on the river.  Following his gaze I’m thrilled to see a large heron, unperturbed by the presence of humans.

Flood gates control this stretch of river, a warning that things are not always so tranquil. Ducks peck and glide.  A parkland opens up before me and, around the corner, a lovely surprise.  A fast flowing weir is home to a pair of swans who preen for my delectation.

Ahead lies a quirky section,  where I pass through an industrial estate with a sense of humour.  I know that I’m not too far from Leith, where I hope to relax and enjoy the evening sunshine.  This walk has been full of surprises.

Just one last bridge to go and I’ve reached the Shore of Leith.  A place full of history, it started life as a medieval settlement and merged with the city of Edinburgh in 1920.  The port is still a commercial enterprise but old Leith has a wealth of charm.

img_3023

In the quiet of late afternoon I read the displays telling me that Leith was once bustling with activity as tall masted ships unloaded their cargoes. Fish, coal, grain and hides were exported to northern Europe and the Med, in return for wine, fruit, spices and cloth.  As ships grew too large for this shallow river mouth, the harbour was moved north.  New life has been breathed into old bones and the result is a pleasing melange.

Let’s sit a while with Sandy, with his gently smiling face, before we take a closer look at the Royal Navy War Memorial.  The details are on a display board in the square facing the water.  Calm reigns supreme under Sandy’s benign gaze.

So many facts, I can’t begin to reproduce them all, but if you delve into this Wikipedia link I’m sure you’ll find something of interest.  I didn’t have time to walk as far as the Royal Yacht Britannia, the Queen’s former floating home, now docked at Ocean Terminal. Reason to come back one day?

img_3051

A fascinating place, I think you’ll agree?  I didn’t intend for this post to be so long, so my apologies if I don’t offer you haggis, neeps and tatties. Just take my word for it- they were delicious.  Kettle on time, at last!

walking logo

Thank you so much for your indulgence and your generous support.  Again I have some wonderful walks to share and it’s all thanks to you.  If you’d like to join in at all, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page, or click on my logo above.  You’ll be very welcome.

……………………………………………………………………………………………………………….

Always charming, often funny and never boring.  It has to be Drake, doesn’t it?

Speedy walk on water

I’ll never be able to produce jaw-dropping photography like Cardinal’s, but I can admire :

A Walk Through Praha- Part 2

I cannot resist sharing Meg.  She finds such pleasure in the small things in life :

Walking Warsaw with a friend

And rather more seriously, some Polish history :

A walking tour of Jewish Warsaw

BiTi’s here again, with some great photos.  Shame I’m no cook!

Ballymaloe Cooking School Gardens

Remember Smidge?  I stepped back into her territory last week so I thought I’d give her a shout :

I heart North Berwick

And for those of you who don’t know, lucky Sue lives on Samos in Greece :

The house with the pink shutters- The Potter, Samos Island

You know that game, ‘Where’s Wally?’  I’m playing ‘Where’s Susan?’ :

Walking Oslo, Norway

Kathrin takes us down Memory Lane to an area of Cologne in Germany :

My weekly ramble

Delighted to welcome Amanda to my walks.  Make sure you don’t miss this one!

Hanging Around in Helsinki – Part  II

That’s it for another week!  Perhaps now is a good time to tell you that I have one more walk for you next week and then I’ll be taking a 2 week break in the Algarve.  Poor me!  If you’d like to join me next week get those walks in soon.  Have a happy one!

172 comments

    1. I need to go back some time to walk in the other direction, Anabel, but there are only so many hours in a day. 🙂 I have a photo of my feet, propped up at the end of my bed in exhaustion 🙂 Thanks for your link. I’ll be over as soon as I’ve cooked tea.

      Liked by 2 people

      Reply
  2. Pingback: Hiking in Tenerife – ladyleemanila
  4. Pingback: Hiking Boots – artishorseshit

    1. The day after was even better, Paula, and I met Jude! We shared the Royal Botanic gardens and a rather nice cocktail (details on 6WS but Jude was averse to having her photo taken 🙂 ). Thanks for taking time out for me- I know this is rather lengthy.

      Like

      Reply

  10. What a great walk, in an entrancing city and area, Jo. Very diverse, informing and attractive. And, I like that it was flat and involved a river. And, that the sky turned blue eventually, of course. That reflection is awesome! Do they have scones in Scotland? I better get on with the blogging about my recent walks…

    Like

    Reply

    1. Girdle scones, I believe, Liesbet and they’re flat. I never got to sweet things in my couple of days (unless you count the whisky sauce on the haggis meatballs? 🙂 ) Thanks, darlin!

      Like

      Reply

  11. My head is spinning now with all the different (and interesting) things you saw on this walk. I’m pretty sure I haven’t been to Leith (unless I was too young to remember) but it looks like a walk well worth doing. When I see the word Leith I always think of the tongue twister that we learned as children ‘ ‘The Leith Police Dismisseth us’. 🙂

    Like

    Reply

      2. I have a return engagement for 9/11 next year, would you believe? It’s Viveka Gustavson’s birthday(My Guilty Escapes) and I hope to go along for the celebration. 🙂

        Like

      1. Got back from Wisley just over an hour ago….I went with Sarah Longes@ Mirador design, and she persuaded me to hire a buggy so I could get around further and see all the sculptures displayed at present – result!!

        Like

  14. Pingback: Leaving through the backdoor | Le Drake Noir

  17. Oh wow what a stunning walk, much prettier than my riverside walk this week! And a side of Edinburgh I’ve not seen . . .something else for us to do when we are up there (fingers crossed) in a few weeks. Glorious post Jo 🙂

    Like

    Reply

    1. A proper map will help if you do, Becky. The Water of Leith Walkway link has one you can download. As often happens some bits were not so pristine as others but choc a block full of character. I would walk some more of it if I went back. Thanks a lot, hon, and for the walk too. I’m late getting to the laptop today. Nothing planned but it turned out hectic 🙂 🙂

      Liked by 1 person

      Reply

      1. Thanks for the tip . . . if we do I’ll let you know how we get on 🙂
        I’m days and days out of touch so only just now catching up on messages and comments!

        Like

  18. Pingback: Strolling along the Thames Path – part one! | The life of a 40 something

  19. Is this your first Edinburgh visit? It looks like a great place. My eye especially caught by sharp reflections in that beautiful first photo, the wonderful bike and the figures on the memorial. I hope your week is exactly as you’d like it. I’ve hidden a hug in each day. Play hugemon!

    Like

    Reply

    1. Hello, sweetheart 🙂 🙂 Edinburgh is only 2/3 hours away by train and I’ve been a few times over the years. Usually in the Winter when it is the most perishing cold place in the world (and Michael has refused to return there with me because of that 🙂 ). My last time was just a day visit and the ice rink and Christmas carousel were up in Princes St. I’ve never been to the West End of the city or the Leith walkway, and have wanted to do it for a number of years. Tick in box 🙂 🙂 (but I still have about 6 and a half miles to do in the other direction). Ooh, hugemon! Yes, please 🙂 Now, where shall I hide yours?
      What was intended to be a ‘rest’ day today ended up a walk around a country park (with a gorgeous raffia dragon 🙂 ) and coffee with the girls this afternoon. Late to the temple of blogging 🙂

      Like

      Reply

      1. I’m glad you put brackets around the raffia dragon!!! The image of you arm in arm was enticing. I love the “temple of blogging”. Very apt. I’m hunting for my hugs. I hope they’re not in my room or I’ll never find them. I’m tidying up.

        Like

    1. Fabulous, Kathe! 🙂 🙂 Small world. I’m sitting looking out at a greyish north east this morning but it has been wonderful. Hope the weather holds for you- but you won’t care. The scenery’s glorious, isn’t it?

      Like

      Reply

Leave a comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.