Jo’s Monday walk : Bellingham and Hareshaw Linn

Hareshaw Linn, or waterfall

Hareshaw Linn, or waterfall

If I told you that today’s walk takes us to the site of two former blast furnaces, you could be forgiven for being less than enthusiastic. But you might remember lovely Hareshaw Linn from a previous post.  I was in the company of two friends with whom I go back a long way, so I had a smile on my face, even in the uphill stretches.

Ian and Pam have a caravan on a small site on the edge of Bellingham, a neat little market town in Northumberland.  It just so happens that it also sits right beside one of that county’s best walks. I hadn’t been to Bellingham for more than 30 years, but I have an enduring image of waking up there one morning to a winter wonderland.  The railing of our hotel balcony was delicately traced with snow, of which there hadn’t been a sign the night before.  No snow on our walk today!  It might make the going a little slippy, but wouldn’t it be pretty?

This is where we'll start

This is where we’ll start

This area was once the site of an iron works, established in 1833.  At the height of operating, it contained 70 coke ovens, 24 large kilns for roasting the iron ore, a blacksmiths, stables and stores.  It remained in production until 1848.  The dam in the photo above supplied water to power the works, and is one of few reminders of the past.  Nature has taken this valley back to herself, and it’s hard to imagine now the roar of those ovens.

Let's follow the path down into the woods

Let’s follow the path down into the woods

And look what we find!

And look what we find!

Growing right up into the tree

Growing right up into the tree

Ian and Pam make use of the first bench along our path
And we reach the first of the bridges
Before the path leads on

There are six bridges to cross, but for some reason only the first is numbered.

Looking for fish!

Looking for fish!

All shapes and sizes
From a sweeping curve
To the straight and narrow
The trees are laden with moss

The trees are laden with moss

Tangling with ferns and water

Tangling with ferns and water

Which gurgles on its way!

Which gurgles on its way!

There’s an element of fantasy to this woodland setting.  It feels somehow lost to the real world.

And look! Someone's been wishing on a penny!

And look! Someone’s been wishing on a penny!

Way overhead there’s a glimpse of sky
Then, a first hint of the Linn
And, grappling with the rock…
A last dramatic curtain before the grand reveal

A last dramatic curtain before the grand reveal

Isn't it lovely?

Isn’t it lovely?

And below- peaceful today!

And below- peaceful today.  Before the rains!

There’s only one way out of the valley, and that’s to retrace your steps, so you can’t get lost even if I rush on ahead.  You might want to pause to examine a few flowers.  The trail is one and a half miles long, so that’s a round trip of 3 miles, with a few ups and downs.

Funny how all the flowers down here seem to be yellow
Although the honeysuckle is more of a creamy colour

The path brings you out by the old bridge.  If you cross over the road and take a few steps back the way, you will see evidence of former times and the power of water.

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I’m pretty sure you’re ready for a bite to eat by now, and the Rocky Road cafe will give you a warm welcome.  Or there’s the ‘Rose and Crown’, just as friendly, next door, if it’s open.  The houses are largely built from the local grey stone, enlivened by troughs of flowers and hanging baskets.  I continue past the village hall to St. Cuthbert’s Church, consecrated in the 12th century. Unlatching the door, I step briefly inside, then leave quietly again.  St. Cuthbert’s Well (Cuddy’s Well) is easily missed, down by the river.

Need a few fruit and veg?
A little whitewash
And the community hall
A wooden nativity outside St. Cuthbert's

A wooden nativity outside St. Cuthbert’s Church

And inside, the Madonna
And some beautiful stained glass

I couldn’t leave without a quick look at the hotel where we stayed so long ago.  There was still a lovely view down to the river, but agreeably, no snow!  A footpath beside the river will bring you back into town, where you might want to visit the Heritage Centre.

The row houses
The North Tyne
And ‘Cuddy’s Well’

I hope you enjoyed this week’s walk, in the company of my lovely friends.  This link will take you to the Northumberland National Park site, with a map and full details of the location.

walking logo

Time for a cuppa and to share some more brilliant walks!  Many thanks to all of you who’ve submitted walks, and to those of you who are simply armchair readers.  To join me, you’ll find details on my Jo’s Monday walk page, or just click on the logo above.  Here we go!

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Got to brave the weather when you’re in the Hebrides.  Well done, Geoff!

A walk around Luskentyre

Still learning new words this week!  Thanks a lot, Anabel :

Torwood Castle and Tappoch Broch

I just know how much I would love Corsica!  Look at this!

A walk in shadow of history

Amazing share from Violet- the most incredible Junk Art!

Junk Art

For those of you who didn’t see it on BBC2, here’s Laura’s version of the Pennine Way :

Peaks and troughs

I am so privileged again to feature Suzanne’s beautiful handiwork.  Don’t miss it!

Walking in Tower Hill

Henry Moore sculptures a-plenty from Jackie this week :

Monday Walk- Toronto

Did you ever see anything lovelier than this?  I know Sue S will approve!  Many thanks, Amy!

Monday Walk : Bow River

You have to applaud the sentiments of the next one, as well as the beauty!  Cheers, Jesh!

Friends Walk Together

And if you’d like, share some reminiscing with my beautiful friend, Meg?

Walking a memoir

It wouldn’t be Monday without Jude in Cornwall, now would it?

St. Just in Penwith

For something a little wilder (and spectacular!) grab your poles and join Ruth :

A rocky walk to Bicheno Blowhole

First the water spouts up, and then it flows down!  Thanks to the Eternal Traveler!

Over the Cliff

That’s it for this week!  Next week I hope to schedule my Monday walk, as I will be in Bristol gazing at hot air balloons.  Pinch me, somebody- I must be dreaming!  I don’t get back until late on Monday evening so I may be rather slow with my responses, and I will be all in a daze.

If you have any spare time, pop in to see those lovely folks at Monday Escapes, won’t you? Meanwhile, have a great week!

 

153 comments

    1. Hi Violet! You’ve just caught me in the sulks because I’d planned a boat trip along the Avon Gorge with the balloons overhead but I’ve left it too late to book! 😦 Serve me right- I should have done it sooner! 🙂 I’ll console myself with your walk. Thank you very much!

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      1. what a shame – a boat trip sounds fantastic. glad I could cheer you up a bit.
        I’m planning on a trip back to Scotland and England next year, and am thinking of timing it with the balloons, since I have a cousin who lives near Bristol. Pity it happens in high season… expenses account may not allow.

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      3. yes, fares go down considerably by the second week in September!
        There is also a Balloon Festival in New Mexico, tbhough that may not be any cheaper as I’d have to pay for accommodation 😉
        We used to have one in London Ontario, but it got too expensive to run.

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  2. Such a beautiful walk Jo. Glad there was no snow this time. Are those mushrooms growing up the tree? We don’t see many here because our climate is so dry. That’s my guess. Now tell me about that stump with the coins. I’ve never seen anything like it. Gazing at hot air balloons? Do tell!

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    1. Fungi, Sue- strictly non edible 🙂 The ‘wishing tree’? No idea where this custom originated, but I have come across a couple on my travels. Supposedly lucky if you wedge your penny in the poor old tree stump! No- I did not have a penny to my name and nobody offered me one 😦
      Hot Air balloon fest in Bristol is an annual event. I’ve wanted to go for years! Daily Telegraph featured the pre-festival flight last weekend. There should be a video in my Facebook page. EXCITED! And no, not flying, sadly… too expensive.

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      1. Thanks for all the info Jo! Have a good weekend in Bristol. I’m sure the photos will be fabulous. Regarding the price, you could make a proposal to do a story on them in exchange and to run photos and the post on your social media. Just a thought.

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      2. You are SO resourceful, Sue! Why don’t I think of these things? I did see a tweet advertising last few places but I didn’t even dare look at prices. I might just back track later today (frantic activity here atm!). Nothing ventured, right? 🙂 Thanks for that!

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      3. Jo feel free to send me an email if you want to chat more about these kinds of pitches. Absolutely it never hurts to try. That has definitely been my experience. Good luck!

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  3. I love the bridges! And to think that once this was the site of such industry. Now it has a prehistoric feel. Perfect for a lovely walk with friends. 🙂

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  5. I love the shadows and panels of light in the first photo: is that really an industrial dam? and i’d be down that path into the woods like a shot. Your walks are always so varied – after mossy logs we get that wonderful wooden nativity.

    Thank you so much for linking to memoir – I didn’t really think it fitted the parameters of Jo’s Monday walk.

    I hope the balloons are giving you at least as much pleasure as this post gave me.

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    1. The head of the dam is the second photo in, Meg (behind the sign board). It’s a lovely spot. I couldn’t believe how many years it had taken us to visit it, because I’ve seen it featured in the Daily Telegraph before! Lovely to spend time with Ian and Pam! I see her quite often, but never Ian. Really nice couple. 🙂
      Beyond excited about these balloons! Planning and organising to do (and meeting Viveka 🙂 ) Hugs!

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  11. Thank you for another lovely walk. How lucky your friends live nearby such a gorgeous place. I love the idea that nature takes over as soon as we abandon a structure. I’ve posted photos from a small lake I used to swim in when I was young. There was a beach, short pier and lifeguard’s chair. The pier’s long gone and everything is so overgrown that the lifeguard’s chair looks like it’s in the middle of the woods. 🙂

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  12. Now that was a nice walk, about the length I prefer, with lots to look at on the way. Reminds me of the Pacific Rim rainforest walks on Vancouver Island with the wooden bridges and the hanging moss. No windswept beach at the end though. Northumberland is a lovely county and isn’t amazing how different these former industrial regions look now? The people working at them would never have believed how different it would all look in the future.

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    1. Beach next week, Jude! 🙂 I have a relatively straightforward one I’ve meant to share for ages and it keeps getting pushed to the back. It doesn’t need any research so hopefully I can get it done before I go on Thursday. I’m not taking laptop. Still sorting arrangements and so many things I want to see and do this weekend!
      Thanks for your company. How are the roses? 🙂

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      2. It was glorious this morning and we were with the group at Middleton One Row on the Tees. Goodness knows when that will be posted! 🙂 Keep smelling those roses! I expect to see them soon.

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  14. enjoyed your lovely walk as always Jo! greens, bridges, waterfalls and the coin stone (?) all rich in history. 🙂 love the wooden nativity! thank you! 🙂

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  16. That walk was just delightful Jo. I loved the cobblestones almost buried in the grasses and wild flowers and look you found fungus and bridges over streams and the beautiful water fall I agree it has to be one of the best walks and as always choice of places for a snack and cuppa. I’ve been out and about in our so unseasonal winter, warm weather, well not really unusual as it is often sunny, but we are 6-7 degrees above the average… https://pommepal.wordpress.com/2015/08/03/gold-coast-icons/

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    1. I’m late getting here, Pauline (and will be even later next week!) but as always it’s good to have your company. 🙂 I’ll be over as soon as I can. Thanks a lot!

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  19. A walk that is both lovely and nostalgic for you,Jo. Nice to be with old friends. Did you try to wedge in a penny of your own? Interesting tradition. The ironworks is long gone but it looks like a charming community that remains. Balloons. How exciting. Have fun!

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    1. Do you know, Lynne, I didn’t have a penny with me! And no-one volunteered one either 🙂 But we did have a very lovely day together. Thanks! I’m beyond excited! 🙂

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