Jo’s Monday walk : Bellingham and Hareshaw Linn

Hareshaw Linn, or waterfall

Hareshaw Linn, or waterfall

If I told you that today’s walk takes us to the site of two former blast furnaces, you could be forgiven for being less than enthusiastic. But you might remember lovely Hareshaw Linn from a previous post.  I was in the company of two friends with whom I go back a long way, so I had a smile on my face, even in the uphill stretches.

Ian and Pam have a caravan on a small site on the edge of Bellingham, a neat little market town in Northumberland.  It just so happens that it also sits right beside one of that county’s best walks. I hadn’t been to Bellingham for more than 30 years, but I have an enduring image of waking up there one morning to a winter wonderland.  The railing of our hotel balcony was delicately traced with snow, of which there hadn’t been a sign the night before.  No snow on our walk today!  It might make the going a little slippy, but wouldn’t it be pretty?

This is where we'll start

This is where we’ll start

This area was once the site of an iron works, established in 1833.  At the height of operating, it contained 70 coke ovens, 24 large kilns for roasting the iron ore, a blacksmiths, stables and stores.  It remained in production until 1848.  The dam in the photo above supplied water to power the works, and is one of few reminders of the past.  Nature has taken this valley back to herself, and it’s hard to imagine now the roar of those ovens.

Let's follow the path down into the woods

Let’s follow the path down into the woods

And look what we find!

And look what we find!

Growing right up into the tree

Growing right up into the tree

Ian and Pam make use of the first bench along our path
And we reach the first of the bridges
Before the path leads on

There are six bridges to cross, but for some reason only the first is numbered.

Looking for fish!

Looking for fish!

All shapes and sizes
From a sweeping curve
To the straight and narrow
The trees are laden with moss

The trees are laden with moss

Tangling with ferns and water

Tangling with ferns and water

Which gurgles on its way!

Which gurgles on its way!

There’s an element of fantasy to this woodland setting.  It feels somehow lost to the real world.

And look! Someone's been wishing on a penny!

And look! Someone’s been wishing on a penny!

Way overhead there’s a glimpse of sky
Then, a first hint of the Linn
And, grappling with the rock…
A last dramatic curtain before the grand reveal

A last dramatic curtain before the grand reveal

Isn't it lovely?

Isn’t it lovely?

And below- peaceful today!

And below- peaceful today.  Before the rains!

There’s only one way out of the valley, and that’s to retrace your steps, so you can’t get lost even if I rush on ahead.  You might want to pause to examine a few flowers.  The trail is one and a half miles long, so that’s a round trip of 3 miles, with a few ups and downs.

Funny how all the flowers down here seem to be yellow
Although the honeysuckle is more of a creamy colour

The path brings you out by the old bridge.  If you cross over the road and take a few steps back the way, you will see evidence of former times and the power of water.

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I’m pretty sure you’re ready for a bite to eat by now, and the Rocky Road cafe will give you a warm welcome.  Or there’s the ‘Rose and Crown’, just as friendly, next door, if it’s open.  The houses are largely built from the local grey stone, enlivened by troughs of flowers and hanging baskets.  I continue past the village hall to St. Cuthbert’s Church, consecrated in the 12th century. Unlatching the door, I step briefly inside, then leave quietly again.  St. Cuthbert’s Well (Cuddy’s Well) is easily missed, down by the river.

Need a few fruit and veg?
A little whitewash
And the community hall
A wooden nativity outside St. Cuthbert's

A wooden nativity outside St. Cuthbert’s Church

And inside, the Madonna
And some beautiful stained glass

I couldn’t leave without a quick look at the hotel where we stayed so long ago.  There was still a lovely view down to the river, but agreeably, no snow!  A footpath beside the river will bring you back into town, where you might want to visit the Heritage Centre.

The row houses
The North Tyne
And ‘Cuddy’s Well’

I hope you enjoyed this week’s walk, in the company of my lovely friends.  This link will take you to the Northumberland National Park site, with a map and full details of the location.

walking logo

Time for a cuppa and to share some more brilliant walks!  Many thanks to all of you who’ve submitted walks, and to those of you who are simply armchair readers.  To join me, you’ll find details on my Jo’s Monday walk page, or just click on the logo above.  Here we go!

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Got to brave the weather when you’re in the Hebrides.  Well done, Geoff!

A walk around Luskentyre

Still learning new words this week!  Thanks a lot, Anabel :

Torwood Castle and Tappoch Broch

I just know how much I would love Corsica!  Look at this!

A walk in shadow of history

Amazing share from Violet- the most incredible Junk Art!

Junk Art

For those of you who didn’t see it on BBC2, here’s Laura’s version of the Pennine Way :

Peaks and troughs

I am so privileged again to feature Suzanne’s beautiful handiwork.  Don’t miss it!

Walking in Tower Hill

Henry Moore sculptures a-plenty from Jackie this week :

Monday Walk- Toronto

Did you ever see anything lovelier than this?  I know Sue S will approve!  Many thanks, Amy!

Monday Walk : Bow River

You have to applaud the sentiments of the next one, as well as the beauty!  Cheers, Jesh!

Friends Walk Together

And if you’d like, share some reminiscing with my beautiful friend, Meg?

Walking a memoir

It wouldn’t be Monday without Jude in Cornwall, now would it?

St. Just in Penwith

For something a little wilder (and spectacular!) grab your poles and join Ruth :

A rocky walk to Bicheno Blowhole

First the water spouts up, and then it flows down!  Thanks to the Eternal Traveler!

Over the Cliff

That’s it for this week!  Next week I hope to schedule my Monday walk, as I will be in Bristol gazing at hot air balloons.  Pinch me, somebody- I must be dreaming!  I don’t get back until late on Monday evening so I may be rather slow with my responses, and I will be all in a daze.

If you have any spare time, pop in to see those lovely folks at Monday Escapes, won’t you? Meanwhile, have a great week!

 

153 comments

      3. Often enough my replies are a bit ambiguous, Sally. It depends how many I’ve written and how tired I am! 🙂 This place had quite a unique atmosphere, but what made it special for us was being there with our friends after so long. We couldn’t have had a better location. 🙂

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    1. It’s not long, Viv, but it’s rather ‘uppy-downy’! 😦 Perhaps taken slowly 🙂 Beautiful surrounds just for driving through, though, and you could certainly have a cuppa in Bellingham.

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  8. Pingback: Mountain high | Le Drake Noir

  9. Lovely walk – I’ve been to Bellingham, but not for many years. Delighted to see the wishing tree! I posted about one a while back – I knew I’d seen another one but couldn’t remember where. It’s not this one though.

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    1. Indah asked about the custom, Anabel, and I said I would Google it if I knew what to call them. Wishing tree sounds good to me! 🙂 Many thanks for your walk. I’m not long back from walking by the River Tees so I’ll hopefully join you soon.

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    1. It was a wonderful day, in excellent company, Mr. B! What more can I ask? Thank you so much for your visit. I’ll return it soon. Hope all is good with you and the family 🙂

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  12. Pingback: Geilston Garden and Tom na h’Airidh – Anabel's Travel Blog

    1. Hi, Indah! It’s a funny old custom! Yes, they are real pennies. I’m not sure quite why or who started it. I expect I could find out on Google if I knew what to call them! 🙂 Thanks, hon.

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  14. This looks gorgeous! I love waterfalls! My family are from Northumberland but I don’t think I’ve ever been to Bellingham.

    St Cuthberts! So many North east churches are dedicated to him 🙂

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  16. Wonderful, so inspiring… 🙂

    Excellent captured… 🙂

    So glad you remember that ‘Madhu’ and I always are tempted for something delicious food after enjoyed one of your walks… 😀

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    1. I was kind and didn’t show you any of those homemade cakes I know you would have wanted, Drake 🙂 The pea and ham soup was wonderfully tasty, though. Not biking territory in the valley but you could have such fun on the rolling hills! 🙂 Thanks, and take care!

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  17. interesting walk Jo amongst greenery where there was once much industry – btw – I only did a postcript taster of my sojournings along the start of the pennine way – the walk I describe is up and over from edale to castelford

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  18. Gosh you manage to find some picturesque walks Jo in lovely quaint places! As always I found your little historical slide show fascinating. It must have looked so pretty when it was snowing when you stayed there but much better weather for walking today! Have a good trip away to Bristol 🙂

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    3. Have your guests gone? However lovely, they do make extra work, don’t they? Enjoy your picking and pickling and whatnot while it’s nice enough to get out there. Thanks for your time, Tish 🙂

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