Jo’s Monday walk : Rievaulx Abbey

Gazing heavenwards at Rievaulx Abbey

Gazing heavenward at Rievaulx Abbey, North Yorkshire

It was quite hard to decide which walk to take you on this week.  The weather’s been so unseasonably kind and I’ve been out and about a lot.  I will be missing next Monday and I wanted to leave you with some beautiful images.  It’s probably hard to find anywhere more beautiful than Rievaulx Abbey in North Yorkshire.

Spring was just beginning to tap on my door, and the Abbey was newly opened for the season when I made my visit- the first in many years!  I had quite forgotten the majesty of the place.  In the silence, I could almost hear the monks at prayer.

Approaching the abbey

Approaching the Abbey

I hate to mention it, but that's a nice-looking bench

I hate to mention it, but that’s a well-situated bench

I just know you want a close up!

I just know you want a close up!

Founded in 1132, Rievaulx Abbey was the first Cistercian abbey to be built in the north of England.  Situated just 3 miles from the village of Helmsley, in the North York Moors National Park, still it feels remarkably remote.  The location, sheltered by hills in the valley of the River Rye, was ideal for the Cistercians, who valued a strict life of prayer and self sufficiency with little contact with the outside world.

Looking through into the Infirmary Cloister

Looking through into the Infirmary Cloister

An exquisitely shaped doorway

An exquisitely shaped doorway

The Cloister Green, seen through the Arcade

The Cloister Green, seen through the Arcade

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In order to have enough flat land to build on, the monks diverted part of the river several metres west of its original channel.  It astounded me to find that during the 12th century, they diverted the course of the river three times.  Such was the ingenuity of the monks, who over time built up a profitable business mining lead and iron ore.  They reared sheep and sold the wool throughout Europe.  Rievaulx grew to be one of the wealthiest abbeys in England.  With 140 monks and many more lay brothers, it was a far cry from its devout beginnings.  By the 15th century the strict observance of Cistercian practises had been abandoned in favour of a more comfortable lifestyle.

The South Trancept

The South Transept

Henry VIII was, of course, delighted to take advantage of this prosperity when he dissolved the abbey in 1538.  The 72 buildings alleged to have been in existence at that time were stripped of their assets and rendered uninhabitable. Today the still substantial abbey ruins are in the care of English Heritage.  High on the hillside overlooking them sit two Grecian-style temples.  These were added in the 1750s by Thomas Duncombe, and are now in the care of the National Trust. Just a glimpse is visible on my walk.

You might well want to linger in the Visitor Centre, which has a pleasant cafe (with good cake!) looking out on the ruins.  Picnic tables will make this a popular spot in Summer.  It’s much too early to return to the car so I’d like you to accompany me on a circular walk, along the river to Bow Bridge.  A website I have used before Where 2 walk will provide you with a little map, but the 2 and a half mile route is quite straightforward.  We can eat when we get back- I promise!

Walk towards Rievaulx village to a signpost on your left

Walk towards Rievaulx village to a signpost on your left

Here it is!

Here it is!

The river is down to your left

The river is down to your left

And Bow Bridge is not too far ahead

And Bow Bridge is not too far ahead

Follow the tidy hedge and here we are

Follow the tidy hedge and here we are

Cross over the bridge and take the footpath to your left and you will initially be following the opposite bank of the River Rye.  A signpost saying ‘Ashberry’ points the way across a field, and the path begins on a gentle incline.

A handsome bare branched tree

Past a handsome bare-branched tree

The trees still wear their winter moss blankets
Early primroses peak through the tree roots
The bareness reveals strange shapes in the woods

The path climbs a little steeply for a short stretch and, through the trees, you can just make out the outline of the Abbey down below.  As we start to descend, a bench catches my eye.

What a lovely inscription
Alone with the daffodils
And the view…
Looking back, above the trees, you can just make out a Rievaulx Temple

Looking back, above the trees, you can just make out one of the Rievaulx Temples

The path ends at ‘Ashberry’- a large farmhouse
Set in lovely grounds
The sign points the way

One more bridge, a pretty riverside garden and, around a bend in the road, the Abbey.  The cafe’s in sight.  I feel a need for Yorkshire curd tart.  I did promise, didn’t I?

A little pop of colour
A thatched cottage
And one last bench, with a view

The English Heritage website will give you full details of opening times for the Abbey and how to get there.  Rievaulx is a charming village too, but very steep!

You might already have guessed that I’m linking this walk to Jude’s Bench challenge. This month’s theme is ‘a bench with a view’ and I think that I found a few.  Sorry, Jude, but I don’t have time for a separate post because on Wednesday I’m off to the Algarve.

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I won’t have a Monday walk for you next week, but please feel free to share your walks.  I will include them on 20th April, when I hope to be posting about the wild daffodils in Farndale, planted originally by monks.  Details of how to join in are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.

After that, I’m off to Poland again, with Dad, but that’ll be another story (and a whole lot more photos!)  Surely time to get that kettle on and enjoy these posts!  Many thanks to all my wonderful contributors.

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I didn’t manage to do this on my Paris trip so many thanks, Debbie :

A stroll around Montparnasse

A little bit of Spring magic with Gilly next :

The Chalice Well Garden in Glastonbury

Amy takes us to a perfectly manicured park (and there’s Easter eggs!)

Monday Walk

Drake tickled my fancy with boats.  Knows the way to my heart, that one!

Idyllic Harbor Blues

Back to old Holborn haunts, with Geoff :

My kinda town

I have a new word for Spring.  Frivolicious!  🙂  Thanks, Jesh!

April Frivolicious

Urban planning seems to be an issue at Violet Sky’s :

Street Signs- Old 

But beauty abounds at Paula’s place!

A scene from Hyde Park

I refuse to take a walk with an alligator for anybody- even Yvette!

Windows and Doors in RVA

We’ll end with Tobias’ interesting outlook on Hamburg  :

2/3 Faces of Hamburg

Don’t forget- I won’t be here next Monday!  Hope to see you on 20th April.  Meantime, lots and lots of happy walking! (and please take some bench shots for Jude)

 

165 comments

  1. Pingback: Bench series #16 | TRAVEL WORDS
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  7. Thank you for the tour of Rievaulx Abbey. As you know I love a wander around an historic place. I have been here, but it was closed so we only saw it from the road. I had no idea it was so BIG! And I saw it on a very cold (snowy) November day so the light was poor. Your photos are so beautiful and so informative too.

    I know you are in the Algarve now, but I do have a surprise walk for you that I know you’ll love when you get back home 😀
    http://wp.me/pL5Ms-2wA

    Enjoy Portugal, I shall look forward to the photos and tales on your return.

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    1. Hello my old pal! (I know- not so much of the old 🙂 🙂 ) I hoped you’d like this walk and was pretty sure you wouldn’t mind your benches keeping my walk company. A match made in heaven, some might say 🙂 I’m just back Jude, and will be struggling big time to get a couple of posts up and running before I’m gone again, but I do appreciate your company.
      Did you have a good time (and was the elusive house right where you wanted it to be? )

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  8. A remarkable one, Jo. I’d go there in a heartbeat just to see it. Getting there sounds like an exciting anticipation as well.
    And great find on that handsome tree.

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  10. Not just prayers and illuminating scripts then Jo … diverting streams and rivers …. these monks must have set their hearts on this place 🙂
    A great set of pictures Jo .. I feel I’ve no need to visit myself now, except of course Yorkshire Lemon Curd Tart has to be in person !
    Enjoy your visit to the Algarve the sun will most definitely have his hat on I’m sure 🙂

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  15. okay for starters – I love the memory bench – and boy did this fit in with the april theme perfectly – “for mac to take int he view” – and also a special tribute bench for whoever mac is/was.

    second, in almost every single photo there is a bit of green – mostly grass – but then the green doors – and lots of foliage – and that green flow just made this whole walk feel more lively –
    lastly – enjoyed the min history lesson – esp. tidbits like this – “The 72 buildings alleged to have been in existence at that time were stripped of their assets and rendered uninhabitable”

    and now I am off to scroll the post again….

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    1. Bless you, Suzanne! When I saw the link arrive in my Inbox I had to look twice to be sure it was you 🙂 Thank you so much and I’m very happy that you’ve conquered the computer! 🙂

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  17. You’re a walk wizard, Jo. You conjure up a beauty every time. Each week I want to say “This is your best.” This week I love the arches particularly, but not only. I’ve got some mud-flats to share, when I have leisure to blog again. I’m writing this beside my new home for a week, a campervan I’m falling in love with, despite its lack of saucepans. There’s a swimming pool behind me, strange birds tweeting, and lush treeage in front of me.

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    1. Sounds like hell, Meg! 🙂 Just a teeny bit green (so appropriate 🙂 )on this back to grey again north east morning. Even worse, I’m on cleaning duty today, first here and later at Dad’s, so I needed your kind words to buck me up. Off to sunnier spots (I hope 🙂 ) late tomorrow. Take care of yourself 🙂

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  18. Pingback: Uncertainity and The Great Ocean Road | Art and Life

    1. And I’m finally almost ready to read it 🙂 🙂 I’m glad they come in at different times because I struggle to keep up sometimes. Many thanks for joining me 🙂

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