“A gift from the sea”

A salt mountain, carefully harvested.

A salt mountain, carefully harvested.

One of the best things about visiting the Algarve off season is being able to take long walks.  The 12km circular of the salt pans at Castro Marim Nature Reserve was one of the highlights of my recent stay.

The sapal or salt marshes are a special feature of the Algarve.  It is one of the few areas where harvesting sea salt, begun in Roman, or even Phoenician times, continues today.  There is an art to skimming the salt crystals off before they grow big and heavy enough to sink to the bottom.  The end product is mineral rich, though needing hours of toil in the heat of Summer.  The distinctive sight of the salt pans, evaporating in the sun, always fascinates me.

I loved this landscape

The wide, flat landscape of the reserve

And suddenly, taking off across the water...

Then suddenly, a white stork takes off across the water…

Maybe to visit this nest?

Maybe, to visit this nearby nest?

The walk starts off, without too much promise, along an unsigned dirt track which doesn’t appear to lead anywhere. Olive and carob trees line the neighbouring field. In the distance, across the salt marsh, you can see the towering piles of salt and the refinery.  As you head towards them a river appears on your right.  Beyond it, in the distance, hovers the sleepy town of Castro Marim, its mighty castelo perched high on the hill.   The twin peaks of the road bridge, which crosses the River Guadiana into Spain, are barely visible.

The salt mountains beckon across the lagoon

The salt mountains beckon across the lagoon

Can you see the flamingoes in the foreground?

Can you see the flamingos in the foreground?

They were everywhere on the salt marshes

They were everywhere on the salt marshes

And seem very content to be there

Seeming to be busy, and happy to be there.

In the distance, across the river, the hilltop fortress of Castro Marim

In the distance, across the river, the hilltop fortress of Castro Marim

And just faintly you can see the bridge to Spain, across the Guadiana

And just faintly you can see the bridge to Spain, crossing the Guadiana

I’m not very knowledgeable about birds, but you can’t fail to be impressed by the quantity of them, indulging in this salt spa.  Heron, white storks, spoonbills and egrets are common sights.  The landscape seems vast, but it is not until you reach “the gate”- the entry to the saltworks- that you begin to realise just how far you are from your start point.  And to wonder how you will get back there.

The infamous "gate".

The infamous “gate”.

It's not only the flamingos that flourish here

It’s not only the flamingos that flourish here
This family of horses

This family of horses seem quite at home.

The horses are wearing bells round their necks, as were some cows we passed earlier.  Maybe, because they have young?  In 2000 hectares of salt pans, there’s a lot of wandering to be done!

According to the guide book, the next landmark is a pumping station, a far off speck on the horizon.  Arriving here is when the adventure really begins!  You turn left, into the salt pans themselves.  The book warns that you must never deviate from the track to attempt a shortcut, as many are dead ends.  If you tire and despair of making the end, you should turn around and retrace your steps.

This last section is a bit of a leap of faith, as it crosses the pans on an overgrown, narrow ridge, and does not appear to have an ending on dry land. It does, though, of course.  It feels quite surreal being out there, surrounded by water and sky.  It’s a little tricky underfoot- a mix of smooth, hardened mud and shrubs- but well worth the effort.  Nor did I want to contemplate retracing my steps, by this stage!

All seems peaceful and calm

All is peaceful and calm

And then, that magical moment when the flamingos take flight!

And then, that magical moment when the flamingos take flight!

The ultimate magic, as you pick your way around the reserve, is that moment when you approach a flock of birds.  Seemingly minding their own business in the salt pans, they obviously have one eye cocked for nare-do-wells.  Panic, or simple good sense, sends one of them into the air, and in seconds the sky is full of beating wings.  Those pallid-looking flamingos have the most glorious crimson underside to their wings, and the sight of them above me, at full stretch, is one I will never forget.

In a world where sky and water are as one.

In a world where sky and water are one

And the horizon seems far away.

And the horizon seems far away.

The book I was using was “Algarve Walks” by Julie Statham, walk no. 22.  It has been revised and reprinted a number of times and I have quite an old copy, so there may be some variation.  It’s not a difficult walk, but if you don’t fancy the last part you should retrace your steps from “the gate”.  Don’t even think about doing it in Summer- there is no cover whatsoever.  And don’t forget the bottled water!

I’ll be taking you to Castro Marim another day.  You’ll like it there!

87 comments

    1. Big umbrellas, Andrew! 🙂 No seriously, the heat in Summer more than compensates for any rain. I expect it just washes more salt out of the mud. It’d be fun splashing about in all that water. I could do a great “Singing in” routine 🙂

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  5. It’s always so great going with you on your walks Jo. It’s so beautiful there and if I go and visit places like that I will also do it when there are no tourists. Stunning shots hon. Love the horses! Thanks for sharing hon. 😀 *big hugs*

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  7. Wow, Jo, that looks like just my kind of walk. I love these kinds of marsh reserves, and I love, love, love the flamingos and the other birds and horses. Beautiful. Thanks, for taking me along on a gorgeous, and long!, walk this morning. I take it you had a wonderful time in the Algarve? xxx

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    1. It was great, Cathy 🙂 The weather a lot less predictable than July but great for walking. We did one up in the hills that was 17km and quite a few others too. We came home needing a rest (and with flu! 😦 ) Just about back to normal now.
      How was Cal? I checked when I got back and there were no new posts, then I remembered your resolutions! 🙂

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      1. Wow, 17km! That’s quite a hike, Jo. I’m glad you still got to walk a lot despite the less predictable weather because I know how walking makes you happy. 🙂

        California was great; I just posted my first one, but it will be slow because of my resolutions. Although I have to say, I didn’t intend to accomplish anything this first week back from California as I had to send Adam off to Australia and Mike off to Libya, and get unpacked and organized. Next week, I start work in earnest.

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  12. Hop the next Salt Ship! We have huge ships with TONS of Salt that come to Portsmouth NH and they pile it HIGH for all of our icy roads and I am sure you have heard we have been ICY
    🙂
    20 min from my home is this huge salt pile. Tractor trailers come all day to get loaded and bring to the local town road departments. We do not have the pretty birds you have in your shots but we have GULLS 🙂

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  16. Here you’re … back in the race!!! Thought I had missed your posts. Great post .. because I use sea salt in all my cooking, but not baking – the little baking I do.
    If we don’t get salt enough into our body we get severer muscle cramps and pains, so keep on using salt in moderation. Your pink Flamingos … stunning bird. I thought they only belongs to Florida.
    Wonderful post and I feel the greatness in all your shots – love having you back. *smile

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    1. Hi, Vivi! 🙂 Huge smile! I came back with a really heavy cold and have felt rubbish the last day or two, so a bit slow posting. I wanted to start the New Year with a new look blog, but am not really happy to lose my header, so have been experimenting a little too. Will be on a “catch up mission” over the weekend. (when I’m not watching Rafa in Australia 🙂 ) Take care , my love.

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      1. Wow, poor thing … knock on wood, haven’t got any cold or flue for nearly 3 years now – something I can live without.
        Glad you feel a bit better – how exciting that you are going to change our outlook. Can’t wait.
        Have a pleasant weekend, Jo .. and be good to yourself.

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  17. Fascinating post, Johanna. We are told so often that salt is bad for us, but we really do need it. And it can be so healing too, especially salt water gargles for sore throats which many may be suffering from just now.

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    1. I imagine it could be quite bleak, Madoqua- you’re right, nowhere to shelter at all. But the Algarve is usually pretty mild. We had overcast skies but not much breeze. Ideal walking weather. 🙂

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    1. I got back late Tuesday, Viv. The weather was very mixed but an enjoyable 18C much of the time, and when the sun came out it was fabulous. 🙂 I came back with a heavy cold so am just about up and running again.

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      4. Sorry, Viv- went off to iron and fix lunch. We have it on BBC Eurosport 1 and 2.. Will check your link later (or read the haiga 🙂 ) Off to t’ai chi now.

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