The cosmopolitan city of Kraków is a million miles away from the river gorge of the Ojców Valley in time, but just 25km in distance.
I arrived in Kraków expecting the beautiful Spring weather I had experienced in previous years, but it was not to be. Okropny- the Polish word for “terrible”- described it very well. Mizzle accompanied grey skies, followed by crashing thunderstorms and heavy rain. Still, nic nie szkodzi, as they say in Poland. It “doesn’t really matter”, when you’re with family and friends. Polish hospitality is, quite rightly, legendary.
Along with all the eating and drinking a little fresh air was called for, so out came the umbrellas. A short drive north west of the city brought us to the village of Ojców and a different world.
The castle ruins at Ojców
Looming over the village, the castle ruins keep a beady eye on the end of the Eagles Nest Trail, a line of defence once stretching north to Częstochowa. Today most of the action in the valley comes from walkers. Armed with our umbrellas, we ventured along the woodland trail.
Limestone cliffs line the narrow banks of the River Prądnik, with greenery clinging tenaciously to every crevice.
Limestone cliffs line the valley
Ojców straggles through the valley. Signs for noclegi, a room for the night, or longer, adorn many of the wooden houses.
A typical village house
The cliffs tower protectively behind the homes
Even in the swirling mists there’s a grandeur to the scenery. We walk as far as Brama, named for the imposing rock structure which forms a “gate” through the valley.
Brama- the gate
The gorge is home to bats and caves, the best known of which is Łokieta, and is open for guided visits in Summer. The valley is rich in flora and fauna.
Just a few of the species found in the valley
I, meantime, am being eyed wickedly by a horse whose temperament seems to suit the weather. Horse and traps cover the short distance from Ojców to the beginning of the trail, for those who don’t like to walk, or just enjoy a ride. To be fair, it can’t have been much fun being a horse that day.
A “not so friendly” horse
We retrace our steps beside the gurgling river to Kaplicza na Wodzie, a small wooden chapel. It straddles the river on a platform, nicely side-stepping a 19th century Tsarist edict forbidding religious structures to be built “on solid ground”. In Poland, the Catholic Church was never easy to subdue.
The river passing through Ojców
Kapliczka na Wodzie
The chapel history
On a better day you can walk the 9km from Ojców to Pieskowa Skała, but a heavy shower had us dashing for the car. Perched on a wonderful vantage point, the castle at Pieskowa Skała dates from the 14th century, but was rebuilt in the 1580s as an elegant Renaissance residence. It has a delicately arcaded courtyard, as does Wawel Castle in Kraków, and pretty gardens. There’s a history museum and the restaurant is set into the castle walls. A climb up the circular steps to the roof terrace of the restaurant will give you fine views.
The castle at Pieskowa Skała
Italianate gardens
Weronika and her fiance, who were kind enough to take me.
Olsztyn Castle is nearer to Częstochowa, at the other end of the Eagles Nest Trail, but that’s an “O” to save for another day! I owe thanks to Julie Dawn Fox for the idea that inspired My Personal A-Z of Poland. The subjects have become very diverse so do go and have a look around.
I’m going to do something now that I wouldn’t normally do. Anyone who reads me regularly will know that a few weeks ago, I included an enquiry about Jake of Jakesprinter in a blog post. I’m delighted to find tonight that he’s back with a stunning new Sunday Post on the subject of Attractions. This post links perfectly to that and I am very pressed for time, so I’m linking the two. Welcome back, Jake! 🙂
Meantime I have 101 jobs to do since my return. I apologise for the quality of the photos, but you’ll be glad to know that after 3 days of okropny weather, we found some sunshine.
restlessjo 
You are right, the weather was not always kind, but my God what sights 🙂
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I love the atmosphere that the mist creates in the photos especially the first shot of the ruins, also great weather for eating and drinking lots of Polish specialties 🙂
Glad to hear that Jake is back 🙂
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Oh, did I eat, Sam! Ready for the Algarve this evening. 🙂
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Great pictures. I’ve been in the Ojców Valley a few times but always in good weather. Glad that you enjoyed the walk even in the rain.
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Thanks for commenting, Joela. It’s a beautiful place. Do you live nearby? 🙂
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In Kraków 🙂
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dont ever apologize for the ‘quality’ of the photos; I agree with Madhu, these taken in the rain and mist have an evocative quality you could lose in harsh light. they are softened, delicate, and quite beautiful. And what a beautiful place this is.
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Seems so long ago, Judy, but I’m just back from the Algarve tonight with so much to catch up on. Many thanks. 🙂
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I think the mist enhances the feel of your images Jo! That church with the benches lined up outside is gorgeous. And you got great views from the castle too. Fab start to your new series from Poland 🙂
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Thanks, Madhu. Off to Tavira again tomorrow (Michael’s holiday), but I just had to squeeze this post in before we go. And isn’t it great that Jake’s back? 🙂
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Absolutely.
Was just thinking I should have done a double entry too. Enjoy Tavira 🙂
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Thanks! 🙂
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Gorgeous photos. I’ve not been to Poland although my Partner has, and I did get a rather nice invitation from someone I met at a heritage course in Amsterdam (don’t even ask!) that sadly I never took up.
I love the misty damp photos. So atmospheric.
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Thanks, Rough! Complete contrast to the Algarve, isn’t it? Headed there tomorrow. 🙂
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Boa viagem 🙂
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Very nice post Jo. Even though it was a gray day, the fog adds mystery to the limestone cliffs. Some of these photos are reminiscent of the area where I grew up in Kentucky in the US. We haven’t been to Poland, but have plans to, so your posts are interesting to read. Thanks. ~James
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Glad to be of help, James. Have seen little of the US myself, other than Florida and a little of the west coast. 🙂
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This looks like someplace I’d like to stay for a few weeks or more.
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It’s quiet, Mona, but if you like walking it’s a great place to do it. 🙂
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How beautiful! The weather may not have been all you wanted, but the landscape is stunning. I love those limestone cliffs!
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They’re wonderful aren’t they? And there’s always another day… (maybe). Thanks for your lovely comment. 🙂
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wow, this was a nice post with a lot of great photos and a LOT of work! it’s beautiful there.
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Yes but it’s nice work, isn’t it, Lisa? Many thanks for returning my visit. 🙂
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con mucho gusto! it’s nice when the internet speeds up enough to make progress and catch up! oddly, at 7 – 8 in the night, it’s fairly fast!
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Total Attraction for this week theme Johanna, Thanks for sharing my friend 🙂
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Wonderful to have you around again, Jake. You can visit attractions with me any time. 🙂
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Don’t apologize for the state of the photos Jo they are wonderful!
I don’t think I’d go through Brama – the gate, I’d be worried a rock may fall on my head (lol) 😉
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Fortunately we had to turn back at that point so I never had to test it, Dianne. Thank you! 🙂
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Gorgeous mountains, castle, rocks… Love the chapel is beautiful. the misty look is poetic! Don’t know why, the recent two posts of yours did not come to my reader(?) 😕
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WordPress playing “mind games”? Not to worry- our paths often cross. I was returning a visit to Sonel, and there found Jake, and consequently you. It’s a lovely blogging community we have. 🙂
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I agree it’s a lovely blogging community! I’m so grateful.
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Great photos! The countryside in the first five photos looks very dramatic.
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It’s somewhere I’ve wanted to go for a while, Elaine, but opportunities are severely limited when it’s a family visit. I lit up when Weronika suggested the outing but when the weather was so dismal I wasn’t sure that we would still go, so I was very happy. 🙂
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Perfectly beautiful in spite of the rain. What a wonderful journey Jo.
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I’ve known a little about the area for a while, Lesley, and it fully lived up to expectations, as you say, despite the weather. 🙂
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I think the misty dampness gives your photos a lot of atmosphere (and it looks homely to me – very Scottish looking weather). I love the chapel and the rock gate, and enjoyed this visit to a little bit of Poland.
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Yes, now I come to think about it there was a hint of Scotland, Lorna. At the time I was reminded of Dracula territory! Thanks, hon. It was a great visit. 🙂
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Oh wow! Lovely photo’s Jo and I do so love that “misty look”. It’s wonderful to hear from you again and still missing you a lot. Thanks for sharing hon and enjoy! *big hugs*
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I am back very fleetingly but will do my best to check out what folks have been up to, Sonel. Nice to be missed. Returning the hugs! 🙂
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Thanks sweetie. *hugs*
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Wonderful gallery – pity on the weather … and imaging how wonderful it would have been in sunshine and blue sky. Great to hear from you and … thanks for sharing you visit.
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Up at a ridiculous time this morning, with my head full of stuff so I enjoyed putting it together, Viveka. How are you, hon? I’ll be struggling with catch up this weekend.
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