Landing stage on Tavira Island
This is where it all began for me- the knowledge that there were islands off the southern shore of Portugal. And ever since, it has been one of my special delights, whenever I’m in the Algarve, to seek out an ilha, or island, to explore.
As you fly into Faro, often the plane will follow the coastline and dip low over the Ria Formosa, a natural habitat of salt marshes. Still, it does not really prepare you for the fact that there is an island life out there, just waiting for your approach.
If you’re staying in Tavira, of course, it immediately becomes apparent. “Where is the beach?” you enquire, knowing full well that the Algarve boasts some of Europe’s finest. You will be directed to the ferry terminal, and there begins your adventure. If it’s summertime you can catch the ferry from the town, and chug away from Tavira’s beguiling skyline through the salt marshes. In winter you will have to be a little more independent and make your way to Quatro Aguas, on foot or bike. It’s a half hour walk, and not one that you would happily undertake in the heat of summer.
The quayside at Quatro Aguas
Chugging out past the salt marshes
And then you arrive
If you’re feeling lazy, you can just plonk down on the river beach and watch the to and fro-ing of the boats. Occasionally a jet ski might zip past, disturbing the calm, but more often it’s the sailing school, out to practise manouvres. For the wider expanse of the ocean, you can cross over the island, beneath fragrant pines, running the low key gamut of a few restaurants, ever open for business.
On the shoreline, simply stroll, with the tongues of water teasing and licking at your toes. Look back over your shoulder and you will see the ilha of Cabanas. I have a gentle love/hate relationship with Cabanas. To me it represents that commercial face of the Algarve that I came east to escape. Yet poke about in the back streets and the character is there still. In the off season you might even regard it as perfection. The fishing village is undeniably eroded, but catch the water taxi across to the island and all is forgiven. I have walked and walked till I could barely stand, until finally the beach begins to undulate and break up into sandbars.
A Cabanas water taxi
Ilha de Cabanas from the boardwalk
Ria Formosa at Cabanas
A Cabanas sunset
Cabanas is the most easterly of the ilhas. Tavira Island comes next as you head west, and can also be accessed from Santa Luzia and Barril. Yes, it IS that big.
Skipping on along the coast, you come to the village of Fuseta. From here it’s an easy ride across to the easterly tip of the next ilha in the chain, Armona. What will you find? Very little other than endless beach, and in some places an interesting perspective back to the mainland.
Fuseta from the ferry terminal
The salt marshes at Fuzeta
Looking back at Fuzeta from Armona
The main access to Armona is from the bustling fishing port, Olhao, which will be the subject of a later A-Z post. If I were ever to take up residence on one of the islands, it would be Armona. For me, it has everything I would need. A pretty little harbour, lots of shallow inlets for paddling, charming beach houses, a couple of restaurants, a shop and a church. All I would need would be my little boat, and the dream would be complete. Meanwhile, the ferry does a fine job. Saturday mornings, when the islanders come over to Olhao market for provisions, all kinds of everything are transported.
Looking across Armona to the mainland
Armona beach houses
Culatra is the next ilha we meet. Ferries make the round trip out of Olhao, calling first at the easterly tip of the island, and then at Farol, whose namesake, the lighthouse, can be seen from far and wide. Not dissimilar to Armona in style, you will have to judge for yourself where your preference lies. I gather that it’s a great spot for fishing. Myself, I just like to get off at one stop and potter along the beach to the other. Whether you do this on the landward side or by the ocean will affect what you are likely to find at your feet.
Farol, the iconic lighthouse on Culatra
Faro, the capital of the Algarve, also provides access to Armona and Culatra, both by regular ferry and excursion.
The last of the ilhas is only accessible from Faro, unless you have your own boat. Barreta, or Ilha Deserta as it is commonly known, is the most southerly of the islands. Do not attempt a visit here without full sun protection. There is no shelter, other than the restaurant “O Estamine”, from the sun’s blistering rays, although you might not always be aware of this due to a cooling breeze.
Ilha Deserta
That’s as far as my explorations have gone, so far. Until I get that boat, I won’t be able to visit any of the smaller ilhas. Be assured, when I do, you’ll hear of it. Meantime if you have any questions or want details on getting there, you only have to ask.
Many thanks, as ever, to Julie Dawn Fox for providing the opportunity to share this post on the Personal A-Z Challenge. To join in, and read related posts, click on the link or the banner below.
restlessjo 
I wish you some sunshine Jo 🙂 and a boat in 2013!
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Ah, bless you, Paula. My heart lifted when I read your comment. I’m wishing you whatever your heart holds dear too.
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I agree to Eliz , Great Place Johanna thanks for sharing 🙂
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My favourite place, Jake. It’s a joy to share.
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What a beautiful place… 🙂
¸.•*¨*•.♪♫♫♪Happy New Year to You & Yours!.♪♫•*¨*•.¸¸ ♥
˜”*°•.˜”*°•.˜”*°•.★★.•°*”˜.•°*”˜.•°*”˜” Have a restful weekend!
Eliz
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It is, Eliz. It is! Makes me homesick looking.
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I learned Portuguese words today! Really great post Jo and I know how easy it is to get caught up while walking on a sandy shore! The photos made me wish I could take a vacation right now!
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And me, Jodi. And me! Home is oh so grey right now. Happy New Year!
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That is a fab piece of writing. I really enjoyed reading it. Those islands sound and look amazing
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Colin, you can drop by any time! Thank you so much. Glad you can see why I love the place.
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Today, I am once again reminded why the islands will always be a place of adventure and solitude for me. Thanks for being a generous blogger friend. Happy New Year! To an awesome 2013!!!
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Bless you and your lovely family, sir. There’s no kinder blogger out there than you, and praise from you always makes me soar.
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I just love the barrier islands (or at least that was what they were called when we stayed in Olhao). I tried to find the ferry in Tavira when we visited there once and failed miserably! I guess I’m not familiar enough with Tavira, and my heart tends to be in Olhao.We can’t drive or train past without stopping at the camp site, in spite of the endless mosquitoes due to the marshes.
I was just wow! when we first visited Armona. Such beauty. And such huge waves too, those big Atlantic rollers.
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Yes, Olhao has lots of character. I’ve only been out on the islands in flat calm, but I remember one gloriously windy day at Praia de Faro (which is the next best thing to an island) when the waves were whipping in. We got chatting to a couple when we stopped to shelter awhile, and flights were off due to snow in England, so they’d gone to the beach instead.
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We did go to Praia de Faro at one point (straight off the ‘plane) in search of the campsite there. It was closed. Back to Olhao as usual 😀 Beautiful strip of beach though at Faro.
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That sunset shot and the lighthouse make me want to pack my bags now! Had no idea there were such pretty islands in that vicinity either!
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I want to pack, too, Madhu. Just for a change, it’s raining here. I have to look at my photos for warmth.
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Even though I went to the Algarve many, many times I never went to one of the islands. What a pity! Will have to visit on one of our future trips to Portugal. I love the Cabanas sunset photo, really beautiful Joanne.
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It’s a different world, Sami! When you sail across to Armona and you’re on the sandbars it’s a bit like walking on water.
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How wonderful photos. Portugal is one of my favorite countries for visits.
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I’m trying to recapture the warmth as I look at them. Can’t wait to go back! Thank you.
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Thank you for the tour, Jo! Beautiful photos. I love the peach-tinted one best. Happy New Year!
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It was a chilly February evening and I didn’t linger, Naomi. I took just 4 shots but I like them all. Pretty in peach! Many thanks, and to you too.
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Thank you so much I really like it your blog,very interesting to read,also very a nice pictures about sailboats and ocean where I am missing this moment.I can not wait 2013 of May.where begins my voyage solo around the world.The best greetings from USA and Happy New Year!
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Going solo is a scarey thought for me, but I love the sea. Wishing you luck, and thank you.
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Fantastic …. Only been to Lisbon and I really enjoyed my stay, even if the city center was like a building site … I think they were extended the underground. Also like the challenge “Personal A-Z” but I did my home country when we had the “A-Z challenge” in April and I will continue with Sweden next year too. The lighthouse on Culatra is a beautiful capture.
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I’m getting there VERY slowly with this challenge, but there are so many other things to write about and photograph. Would love to see your Sweden A-Z. I’ve never been. One day…one day…
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It’s a massive job, but so fun and I learned so much about my country while doing it – you will find my posts about Sweden – under the tag “A-Z challenge”.
Thanks for coming back to me.
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Thanks for the mini vacation ~ beautiful photos!
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Thanks for keeping me company, Jill.
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Beautiful pics, Jo. That lighthouse is really gorgeous. 🙂
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It waves at you as you fly in, Ad. You just have to go and give it a close up. Thanks!
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very very nice. i love seeing the landscape, so much white and blue – all but makes me squint to shut out the sun! z
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I’m trying to radiate in the warmth too, Lisa. Seems a long lost memory on this grey December morn, but I’ll be back. Thanks, hon.
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So many beautiful islands, so little time! That sunset shot is a stunner 🙂
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D’you know, just now and then a shot really works. Thanks Suze. Off to read your review of the year.
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Great article Jo. I love your sunset shot!
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Thanks, Georgia! It was a crisp February evening and I only lingered long enough for a couple of shots, but I love them.
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Ahha – islands, even better, desert islands – I love it 🙂
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Thanks, Meredith. Islands and boats just go together, don’t they? And I’ve always loved boats.
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Ah – now I see! Yes, boats and islands are a sure fit, especially deserted islands 🙂
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