Portugal

My A – Z of Travel

Life’s good sometimes, isn’t it?  I was just recovering from being awarded the ABC Award (Awesome Blog Content) by lovely Alyson Weldrake of http://thethoughtpalette.co.uk/abc-award/, when Lucy Dodsworth, of ontheluce.com, another favourite blog, passed me this challenge.  Well, I have a lot to live up to, but I get to revisit some really happy memories.  Then I pass it on and take time out to read all those other A-Z’s- pure pleasure!  So, here goes:

A : Age at which you went on your first trip abroad:

My Mum’s idea of a holiday was a cottage near Scarborough, so trips abroad didn’t figure in my childhood.  My first ever bid for “freedom” was aged 21, when, quite pregnant with my daughter, I could see the world slipping away from me and booked myself solo on a flight to Paris.  It took me 40+ years to return but I managed to spend my Silver Wedding anniversary in the gardens at Giverny, and Versailles. (my husband is a garden designer, so he was easily persuaded)

B : Best foreign beer you’ve had and where:

Truthfully I’m not much of a one for beer.  Occasionally, after a long hot day, one hits the spot.  You wouldn’t go with one of my recommendations though.

Beer in Turkey

Can’t dispute photographic evidence- Turkish beer?

C : Cuisine : 

Probably Italian, but I’m quite versatile and will try most things.  Could quite easily become vegetarian.  Not sushi please, and never try to make me eat any of those spicy sausage, chourico-types.  Big shout up for Polish pierogi and soups, (my Dad would be proud), and I like a bit of spice.

D : Destinations, favourite, least favourite, and why:

Ponte Romana at Tavira

Anyone who knows me will know that I have a second home in the Algarve and that I am passionate about Portugal as a destination.  For me it has everything, from glorious beaches to stunning sierras, a fascinating history and a wealth of places to explore, many of which I have yet to reach.  Least favourite?  Wouldn’t really want to pin that on anywhere specific, that’s a bit unkind.  I’ll just say that I’m a Scorpio and anywhere that doesn’t have water nearby, I struggle with.  Lakes and mountains are great, but not fussy on flat open spaces.  

E : Event you experienced abroad that made you say “wow”:

Festa dos Tabuleiros

Festa dos Tabuleiros- the procession

“Wow” in a good way?  The Festa dos Tabuleiros in Tomar last July was pretty special.  The event is only held once every 4 years and when you see the effort that goes into it you can well understand why.  Given my love of boats and water, the Tall Ships Races have great pulling power for me too.  I totally loved having my home town Hartlepool, in North East England, host the final leg last year, and am hoping to make it to Cadiz in July to see them again- breathtaking!

Dewaruci

Dewaruci- one of my Favourite Tall Ships

F : Favourite mode of transportation :

Everyone loves trains.  Me too, but I have to say that I do love flying.  Not the boring waiting about, and the confined space and recycled air on board, but that awesome experience of looking down at my world.  Torture for me is one of those really cloudy flights that you sometimes get- zero visibility.  Nightmare!  Once we start to taxi along the runway I put on my specs and prepare to glue my nose to the window.  (I’m no fun if I haven’t got a window seat)  Love trying to identify which part I’m overflying (stunning views of Porto once) and I always mean to travel with a detailed map on my knee, but usually forget!

G : Greatest feeling while travelling :

Anticipation!  I just love it when I’m heading for somewhere new.

The prettiest little Greek church?

H : Hottest place you’ve travelled to :

Haven’t been to any of the world’s truly hot places, and most of my experiences have been European but I can remember melting in Venice once (worth it, of course and I’ve been back twice in cooler temperatures).  The Samaria Gorge in Crete wasn’t exactly cool, and I always seemed to toil up to the top of a Greek Island in heat, no matter what time of day I set off!  Terrible planning.

Hot in the Samaria Gorge

I : Incredible service you’ve experienced and why :

I’m going local with this one- local to Tavira, that is!  We have a lovely little riverfront bar, called Anazu.  From the moment we first set foot in there 9 years ago, Paula, her husband and Luis have made us welcome.  There’s always a smile, and an enquiry after the family.  Two glasses of port appear in front of us unsummoned.  The cares of the world just roll away.  We’re home again.

J : Journey that took the longest :

Hmmh, that would be the first trip to America.  We checked into Newcastle airport, only to be told to hang onto our cases as we were being transferred by coach to Manchester.  Strike action was afoot and bodies littered the concourse when we did get there.  Many wearying hours spent at Manchester, we arrived in the States at entirely the wrong time of day to pick up the hire car and head out into the dark with a sketchy bit of paper showing our destination.  “You’re the navigator” said my tired and irritable husband, trying to fathom junctions and overhead signs.  Happy days!

K : Keepsake from your travels :

Postcards for me too (can they be an addiction?) but I am often to be found pocketing shells and stones from some of the lovely beaches I’ve wandered on.  I have a wonderfully creative daughter who endeavoured to use them up by making me jewellery Christmas presents this year.

Shell necklace

Shell necklace

L : Let-down sight, where and why :

St Wolfgang in the sunshine

St Wolfgang, in the sunshine

It was clear and pleasant when we left the lakeside at St Wolfgang to rack and pinion our way up to the peaks.  Alas, when we got there the promised spectacular mountain views had “disappeared” in thick, cold, Alpine fog.

M : Moment when you fell in love with travel :

Afraid I’ve always been restless- must be in the genes.  At 18 I left home and friends to live in London and I explored that city to within an inch of its life!  With prescious little money in my pocket, I walked till I couldn’t any more.  Love the city still, though I’m more for the quiet life these days.  My lady friends and I made a celebratory visit there last August (coincided with the riots, of course).  Oh, did we have fun!

Tea at the Ritz

Tea at the Ritz

N  : Nicest hotel you’ve stayed in :

Sadly, don’t do posh hotels in the main.  We usually travel as cheaply as possible.  A couple are memorable; notably Hotel Guadeloupe, which was ideally placed for the Alhambra; Solar de Monfalim in Evora, such a gracious Portuguese mansion in the most atmospheric of cities; and a lovely family-owned small hotel in Bardolino on the shores of Lake Garda, whose name escapes me (it WAS 18years ago, but the pasta was amazing).

Hotel Solar Monfalim, Evora

O : Obsession : what are you obsessed with taking photos of when you travel :

Boats and water mainly:

Turkish Gulet

Mooring at Kas

The harbour at Fethiye

Or anything I want to retain as a memory:

The backgammon ace!

P : Passport stamps, how many and from where :

Not many I don’t suppose, but I’ve visited Austria, Belgium, Canaries, Corfu, Crete, Croatia, Cyclades, Denmark, France, Greek Mainland, Italy, Madeira, Poland, Portugal, Rhodes, Spain, Turkey, the USA, Zante  (alphabetically, of course).  The wish list is huge.

Q : Quirkiest attraction you’ve visited and where :

Prezzemolo

Parsley the Dragon

I can remember following a green dragon called Prezzemolo (Parsley) in a procession at Gardaland in Italy many years ago.  The things we’ve done to keep our son amused!  Also in Italy, Il Vittoriale, high above Gardone Riviera, sports a large battleship, Puglia, in it’s gardens.  Definitely landlocked!

Puglia, Il Vittoriale

Stand by for blast off! On board Puglia

R : Recommended sight, event or experience :

Hotel Coronado

Hotel Coronado-not a great shot,but what a destination!

Where do you start?  One that stays with me and I would love to revisit with more time to spare is San Diego Bay.  On the beach by Hotel Coronado I had a Marilyn Monroe moment, and the views out across the water from the restaurants were superb.  Or incredible Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore- water AND gardens, the perfect confection.  So different, but I was also wholeheartedly in love with Warsaw’s Stare Miasto- impossible to believe that so much of it was reconstruction after the Nazis raized it to the ground.

Isola Bela, Lake Maggiore

Stare Miasto, Warsaw

S : Splurge ; something you have no problem forking out money for when travelling :

If I can find somewhere with a lovely view I’m happy to sit indefinitely with a glass or two of wine.

Porto Moniz, Madeira

A smiling husband in Cordoba

Real Alcazhar, Seville

T : Touristy thing you’ve done :

Breakfast with Dale

Have to confess to absolutely loving the Disney parades.  I was ecstatic to have Buzz Lightyear kiss my hand, and Chip and Dale- who wouldn’t want to take them home?

U : Unforgettable travel memory :

Gulet sunset

Gulet sunset

Gulet cruise from Bodrum to Fethiye- a little strange in that it was a late honeymoon, but we couldn’t afford to do it at any other time.  Certainly we weren’t sure if we wanted to share with 10 other people and 3 crew, but it was a fabulous holiday, despite my being stung on the bum by a wasp.

V : Visas ; how many and for where :

Easy answer- none.  Have led a sheltered life!

W :  Wine, best glass of wine while travelling and where :

Welcome to Obidos! The gateway

Obidos. O Conquistador restaurant.  We were taking a breather in a long day’s travelling and opted to eat before returning to the fun of the Medieval Fair.  The restaurant was quiet as everyone was at the fair and the owner was wonderfully relaxed.  The wine was served in earthenware tumblers and was as good as any I’ve ever tasted.  Portuguese Dao and Alentejan wines are generally superb.

X : eXcellent view and from where :

So many it’s an impossible choice but I’ll go with the view of the River Guadiana down to the Alqueva Dam, from the turrets of Monsaraz in Portugal.

A grey day at Monsaraz- imagine it in sunshine

Y : Years spent travelling :

Embarrassingly 40+.  Wish it had been constant though.  Much of my travelling is done fairly locally, but it’s all world, and so much to enjoy.

Z : Zealous sports fans and where :

I’m not a huge sports enthusiast but I rarely miss Nadal playing tennis (on TV).  My husband and son are passionate about football and never pass up an opportunity to see a live match.  Las Palmas on Tenerife was a rowdy and memorable one but the Portuguese take some beating when it comes to “excitability” for a normally calm and courteous race.

I’ve really enjoyed doing this.  Good old Memory Lane.  Now, who else would appreciate this challenge?

http://apetcher.wordpress.com/ Have Bag/ Will Travel

http://mecwrites25.wordpress.com/  La Chica Writes

http://megtraveling.com/  Meg Travels

http://shipscooksstuff.wordpress.com/  Shipscook Stuff

http://kimberlyblagrove.wordpress.com/  The Nappy Wanderer

Enchantment at Almourel

Almourel Castle

Romantic Almourel

Hidden in Portugal’s quiet depths we found another Templar treasure.  A more serene setting I have yet to find, wholely at odds with the history of the Knights and their battles against the Moors.  We had travelled from Constancia in the Ribatejo, at the junction of the rivers Tagus and Zezere (a name that delighted me), so we knew all about sleepy and tranquil.  Still, nothing prepared me for this.

A little before 10 in the morning we rounded a corner and there it sat, with barely a ripple reflected in the water.  A tiny ferry boat lay at anchor, awaiting a boatman and maybe even a passenger or two.  Castles just don’t come any more enchanting than this.  Nothing to do in the still morning air but to breathe in the calm and admire.

Almourel Castle

The ferry boat awaits

How and why was it here?  The name seems to derive from the Arabic, almoran meaninghigh rock”, appropriate for a huge chunk of granite.  The site was known in Roman times, and used for defence purposes then.  It was during the Reconquista period, when the Portuguese were trying to break free from the stranglehold of the Moors, that it came into it’s own.

The Knights Templar were entrusted with the rebuilding and fortification of the castle, in a line of defence of the then capital, Coimbra.  Like the mighty Convento do Christo at Tomar, they gave it nine circular towers, enclosing a quadrangle, and a jail tower at the centre.  It was completed in 1171, two years after the castle at Tomar.

Convento do Christo at Tomar

Convento do Christo at Tomar

With the Moors evicted from Portugal, Almourel was abandoned and fell increasingly into disrepair.  Further damage was inflicted by the 1755 earthquake, but all good castles have a happy ending.  The castle became a listed building in 1910.  Further renovations took place and during Salazar’s dictatorship events were held there.

Today there is no sign of any conflict…. just a ferryman plying his craft.

Almourol ferry

The lone ferryman

Naturally there’s a legend befitting the castle.  A tale of Moors, Christians and treachery.  The Arab lord of Almourel’s daughter fell in love with a Christian knight, and gave away the secret of a passage into the castle beneath the Tagus.  When the knight ambushed the castle, the lord and his daughter flung themselves from the ramparts rather than face capture.

There is no charge to visit the castle, generally open from 10am till 5pm.  Simply pay the ferryman his minimal fee.

Obidos – chocolate cups and pure theatre!

There can be few settings better suited to a Medieval Fair than Obidos- a charismatic walled town, suspended in Central Portugal in a seeming time warp.  Given to his bride Isabel as a wedding present by King Dinis in 1282, this is one very special small town. 

Porta da Vila

Porta da Vila

Passing under the Porta da Vila, the main gate, your eye is drawn upwards to a balcony nestled beneath an arch full of azulejos.  These characteristic blue and white tiles are seen everywhere in Portugal, though rarely to better effect.

I had great expectations for my visit but was quite unprepared for what transpired. I was enchanted and completely drawn into the atmosphere of the place.  It came as no surprise that maidens with floral crowns wandered the streets, nor that tabards and hose adorned a majority of males.

Banners overhead knitted the narrow streets together.  Tiny shops beckoned and beguiled.  

By the castle walls a booth had been erected. The realisation dawned that I had walked into a  Medieval Fair!  7 euros could buy admission to an evening of entertainment, inside the Castelo, from 5pm till midnight.  According to the programme, there was a parade at 6pm.  Much jingling of horses and good natured banter preceded it.

Finally a disdainful looking knight on horseback wheeled around, summoning his minions.  A flare of trumpets and the steady beat of drums and they were off. The hunting dogs looked regal. A juggler and jester entertained.  Threading through the narrow streets they circled the town, pausing frequently to engage with their audience.

Around the castle, barbecues and food stalls smoked and sizzled. The lights came up as day faded into warm evening.  The castle stood tall behind the courtyard.

Courtly dancers took to the stage, bowing and dipping to medieval strains. There was Falconry and Jousting.  Periodically the drummers leapt in to heighten the atmosphere with their furious thrumming.  But unquestionably the star of the show was our jester friend, “the fool”, with an hour or more of silliness and audience involvement.  A Portuguese Tommy Cooper, he transcended language, holding the crowd in the palm of his hand.  My sides were aching at his antics.  Midnight came all too soon.

A sweet treat- Ginja d’Obidos Still absorbing sights and sound, it was time to return to the hotel.  I planned on a chocolate treat to round off the evening.  At intervals along Rua Direita, small counters were set up.  On each, delicate, diminutive cups of chocolate awaited the cherry brandy liqueur known as Ginja d’Obidos.  First you drink the liqueur, then you eat the chocolate cup.  Inspiration!

And finally…

Casa de Relogio

I stayed at the Casa de Relogio, just outside of the town walls, and was made warmly welcome by the owner.  Our hire car was parked on a postage stamp of space outside our bedroom window. (Rua de Graca, Obidos 2510-999)The towns architecture is quirky and interesting. On a fine day you can walk around the ancient walls, peering down or off to the horizon.

I can highly recommend the restaurant O Conquistador.  The  warm bread and cheese to start was exceptional and I loved my lombo do porco no forno with rice, peas and wonderful roast chestnuts.  The javali (wild boar) also got the thumbs up, and the scrumptious house red was served in earthenware mugs. (Rua Josefa d’Obidos tel. 262 959 528)

The Medieval Fair takes place in July.  Another highlight of the town’s year is the Chocolate Festival in March.  Both children and adults can take part in culinary adventures with chocolate, feast upon chocolate and cakes, and wonder at the remarkable display of chocolate sculptures.

Whenever you choose to visit, I think you’ll find that Obidos has a magic all it’s own.