Jerez de la Frontera, Spain

What is it that draws you to a place?  It’s a good question that Cathy asks on her new blog, Wanderessence and one that I can’t resist answering.  I’m going to start with my most recent visit to a ‘new’ place, Jerez de la Frontera, but I will be returning to this challenge.

Drama and passion are two of the things that brought me to Jerez.  I’m sure I must have gypsy blood somewhere in the ancestry.  The rhythmic stamp of that foot and the proud arch of the neck has me on the edge of my seat, breathing suspended, totally in the moment.  Who wouldn’t travel for this?  Andalusia Day in Jerez, during the Festival of Flamenco.  All was quiet in the city as we arrived on this National Holiday.  Until we stumbled, by accident, into the Centro Cultural Flamenco Don Antonio Chacon, in search of food.  Five deep at the tiny bar, half of Jerez were assembled to watch the show, all chattering like magpies.  A hush fell as the artist took to the stage.  Looking out into the packed hall, he claimed his audience, all eyes upon him.  And then… the passion ignites!

Our lovely host, Alejandro, at La Fonda Barranco, said that he had guests returning year on year to take part in the festival.  And to sample the sherry, of course.  No visit to Jerez would be complete without tasting two or three.  Sherish (Xères) was the Arab name for this city, founded by the Phoenicians three thousand years ago.  The warm climate, with both easterly and westerly winds and soil that was once covered by the ocean, produces sherry, a unique, inimitable wine.  Manzanilla, Fino, Amontillado, Oloroso, Palo Cortado, sweet Pedro Ximenez… so many choices!

Something else unique to the city had drawn me here.  The Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art trains horses from the age of three, and riders, to perform advanced dressage and Spanish horse riding, country style.  The culmination of their training is the show ‘How Andalusian Horses Dance’.  Performed to classical music, and to a packed house, this is pure equestrian ballet.  Beautifully groomed and beribboned, the horses demonstrate rhythmic trotting and the ‘Spanish walk’.  They twirl, leap and balance on hind legs, all in complete unison with their rider.

Photographs, understandably, were not permitted but I can share a little of the atmosphere and excitement in this video, which shows the beautiful palace and grounds as well as the arena.  I don’t think it would be out of place in a fairy tale.

This is only a small part of my Jerez story.  There’s a mighty cathedral, beautiful churches, bodegas aplenty, distinctive architecture and wonderful food.  I can’t wait to show you my sherry trifle!  But first it’s your turn to share.  What is it that draws you to a place?  Cathy would love to know.

84 comments

  1. What a happy accident it was to find this place and the flamenco festival Jo. The passion ignites and he claims his audience I can feel it in your writing for this post and thank you, thank you for including that superb video. Horses are one of my passions I think they are the most magnificent of creatures and as a bonus the clip led on to other you tubes, I will save and savour them. I saw the Lipizzaner’s in Venice many years ago. I’ll look forward to more about your visit to Jerez.

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    1. I knew the flamenco festival was on, Pauline, but I thought the main events had been at the weekend. I didn’t know about Andalucia Day. The horses were fabulous! I was a bit disappointed not to be allowed to take photos but, as you say, the videos bring them to life. I really enjoyed writing this and I’m glad it’s reflected in the writing. Thanks, darlin! 🙂 🙂

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    1. I had only a rough idea of how Jerez would look, Carol. The horses and the flamenco were the big draw. I also expected a little sunshine, and we did get ‘a little’. The rest was a bonus. 🙂 🙂

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  2. Ahhhh flamenco!! Nothing quite like the exoerience of watching this drama filled music and dance. And you had a plethora of wine choices. Jerez is not one of the towns we have visited. Am putting it on the list for next time! Terrific photos.

    Peta

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    1. We still need to get down to Cadiz, Peta, but the weather really wasn’t conducive to driving, and there was more than enough to keep us occupied in Jerez. A wonderfully atmospheric place! Thanks a lot 🙂 🙂

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  3. Oh my – what a glorious post. I can feel the passion and drama from here. And what a great chequerboard floor.

    I’m going to leave a note for myself to return to your post after Lisbon as the phone doesn’t really do it justice. Can’t wait!

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      1. Hee hee yes you will! I will share that we had a wonderful long lunch yesterday after we arrived followed by a nice stroll. Then we just sat on our terrace!!!

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      2. Funny, I’m just reading a Springtime in Paris post where there’s a lot of that going on. Sounds idyllic. 🙂 But you know me- I’d have to be off at a gallop.

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      1. Yes, I think no photos, unless of course, you don’t use flash and up the ISO -I have managed the odd surreptitious shot that way…but don’t tell

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  4. “Chattering like magpies” may be my new favourite phrase. The dancing sounds like an extraordinary stroke of good luck to find. But then Jo you do seem to find the so many wonderful and unique destinations. One might have to live 200 years to pack them all in. 🙂

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    1. I dread to think how many more wrinkles I’d have by then, Sue. 🙂 🙂 We had a flamenco show booked for our second night there but this one was just pure luck. We were starved and the restaurants were all shut for the holiday. Wouldn’t happen in your part of the world. 🙂

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  5. Well you certainly sound passionate about Jerez. But then you sound passionate about most of the places you travel to. Gypsy in the blood? More than likely: have you ever traced your family tree? Some lovely photos here Jo, my favourites are the flamenco dancer in the red jacket and the blue door with the braid. And what a lovely way to introduce Cathy’s new site and challenge.

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    1. Are you taking part, Jude? I gather she’s going to be setting lots of challenges. You know Cathy likes to be busy. 🙂 🙂 If I’m not passionate about it I tend not to go there and I certainly can’t write about anywhere without it. 🙂 No, never done a family tree. It’d be a nightmare! Thanks, hon! My favourite is the one I’ve used as my Header. I might keep it forever. 🙂 It was propped on the landing at La Fonda Barranco.

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  6. Jo! This is fabulous! Oh my gosh, that video of the horses brought tears to my eyes. I’ve always loved horses, so I’d love this show. This and of course the Flamenco, which I’ve experienced firsthand, and I know the feeling you describe. I can feel the excitement in your words: “I’m sure I must have gypsy blood somewhere in the ancestry. The rhythmic stamp of that foot and the proud arch of the neck has me on the edge of my seat, breathing suspended, totally in the moment.” Perfect.

    Thank you so much for sharing this and for participating in my first challenge. It means a lot to me! 🙂

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    1. I hoped you would like it, Cathy. 🙂 🙂 I’m just back from t’ai chi and have just switched the laptop on to look at the responses. Hopefully a few people will find their way to your new home. As I said- I’ll be back! 🙂

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      1. Thanks for participating, Jo. And I really love you post. You so captured your excitement. I’ll be posting mine tomorrow morning at 8:00 a.m. my time; it’s already scheduled with your link included. 🙂

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  7. The trifle sounds delightful, Jo. The gorgeous Andalusians and the riding school are like the Spanish Riding School in Vienna where many years ago, I was able to see a practice. Since then, I’ve seen the Lipizzaner’s perform several times and what a glorious sight, as was this!! The horses would draw me, but I’d also enjoy the flamenco. Thanks for sharing two such wonderful things.

    janet

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    1. I always wanted to visit Vienna, specifically for the Lipizzaners, Janet, and never made it, so this was a great substitute for me. 🙂 🙂 Glad to evoke a few memories for you. Join Cathy’s challenge?

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  8. You know I’d like to sample your trifle. What a magical place today. Those horses are magnificent. Looking forward to the rest of the fairytale. You are living happily ever after for certain, Jo.

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    1. We were near the cathedral and there’s a lot of work going on around our hotel. We thought at first we’d made a major mistake but it worked out wonderfully, despite all the weather could throw at us. 🙂 🙂

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      1. What I wouldn’t give to share in that experience. I love Jerez, first visited it in the sixties when we met some officers from the Spanish Air Force who invited us back to their mess for lunch. Quite an experience, eating fish with my fingers as they didn’t use any knives or forks. As we had partaken rather well of the sherry in the Gonzalez Byass bodega, nothing fazed me, but I did manage to leave my handbag behind containing our passports. A ‘phone call to the base brought a motorcyclist to Seville with the missing bag.t. After that, we visited the families of the men we met every year when we drove that way. Happy memories. I can well imagine the atmosphere in Jerez that you describe. I didn’t know they had a flamenco festival or even an Andaluz day, but I shall now Google it and find out more about it and perhaps, manage it next year. Any excuse to go back there.

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      2. Amazing memories, Mari! 🙂 🙂 I’m just looking at my photos of Jerez, trying to put together a credible walk for Monday. It’s quite a place! I hope you get back there.

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