A tale or two : Tinos and Syros

Arriving at Tinos

Arriving at Tinos

Tinos and Syros are two islands I find it quite difficult to distinguish between when it comes to my photo album.  One thing I do remember vividly was the heat on disembarking at Tinos.  The prospect of crawling on hands and knees along this seafront and up the steps to Panagia Evangelistria each 15th August was not a happy one.  Yet that is precisely what takes place each year.  The devoted crawl the 800 metres from the harbour to this pilgrimage church, with its miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary.

It was still Spring in the Cyclades and pleasantly deserted as I ambled past the trinket shops on the harbour, with my partner in crime.  The shade of the awnings was a sure temptation to linger.

The ferry landing on Tinos. My favourite way to travel.

The ferry landing on Tinos. My favourite way to travel.

My partner in crime! Doesn't he look young?

My partner in crime! Doesn’t he look young? (and tanned!)

A fine looking pelican waddled past us.  I had expected to see the resident pelican on Mykonos, but, like us, he must have been away day tripping that day.  Perhaps this was his double.

Pelican crossing

Pelican crossing

And then, the approach to the church.

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Our base was on Andros and we had made the sailing to Tinos from there.  All too rapidly it was time to return to the ferry.  Once aboard there would be no regrets.  I am never happier than when sailing between these islands.  I dreamed that I could island hop for ever.

It wasn’t easy deciding where to allocate most of our time, but, checking the ferry timetables an overnight stay on neighbouring Syros seemed like a good idea.  The ferry sailed into the island capital, Ermopouli, amid a cacophony of noise.  My research had not revealed that local elections were taking place, with loudhailers and all the accompanying paraphenalia.  Threading through the hustling crowd, it was a relief to find a friendly gentleman in the local TI.  The rooms he found us were a world away from the Greek mayhem.

Syros harbour

Syros harbour

You can see that the harbour has two hills, Ermopouli and Ano Syros, the medieval quarter.  Our room was at the top of the hill by the church.  Guess which hill we climbed first?  Give me a choice of two!  Fortunately we were travelling light.

As you can see, it's a long way up.

As you can see, it’s a long way up.

The prettiest blue church I ever saw

Maria Della Grazia church at Poseidonia

This is the end of my sojourn in the Cyclades.  In 25 years I have never been back, though I would love to.  The Greek odyssey continues, but with the addition of a small person.

52 comments

  1. I’m sure I once saw something similar on Corfu, Rosie. (or I may have dreamt it!)
    Suspect there are a couple of those buses rusting away in a back street somewhere, but I doubt they’re in regular service (24 years on?) 🙂

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  2. I love these old pictures. Sheesh your partner in crime is suntanned! I can’t say whether he looks young because I dont know what he looks like now!
    When I looked at the top photo I wondered whether they still drive old buses like that around the islands?

    Good gracious it must be fascinating to go there on 15th August and see everyone crawling along to the church on their knees.

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  4. Fabulous photos, Jo. Yes, your partner in crime looks quite divine, but the pelican is cuter. 🙂 It looks like a long and arduous ascent to that church, but very good for your calf muscles. At least you didn’t have to go up on your knees. 😯

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    1. That’s it for the Cyclades, David. Zante, Rhodes and Crete still to cover. Don’t suppose you’ll get chance to do Symi from Rhodes, but if you do, go for it! Have a great time. Hope the Gods of the weather are kind.

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  9. These photos are absolutely gorgeous! I love the backstory that accompanies them. I can’t imagine crawling all that way either, especially not in insufferable heat. I wonder what your photos would look like today if you go back there now.

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    1. I think there might not be too many changes in the lesser known islands, Xiomara, but the popular ones might well be tourist hell. Probably a good thing that I’ll never know. No going back!
      Thank you! 🙂

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  10. What really stands out to me is the wonderful ‘aged’ look that all photos appear to have from that era. They always seem to look so mellow and dreamy 🙂
    Quite a hike to the top, but I imagine well worth it.

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  12. Loved hearing about your travels in the Greek islands. There are some fabulous places there. My favourite up to now is Mykonos, but I have plenty more yet to see. Thank you, Jo. Have a lovely week.

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    1. There are many I’d still love to see, Lizzie Joy. Story of my life!
      I only had a few hours on Mykonos but the memory of that bay with the red roofed churches is still there. No photos to help out though. Do you have some? I’d love to see.

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      1. Yes there are some I posted on the 14th August 2012, Magnificent Mykonos. I tried to put the link in for you but I couldn’t work out how to do it.

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  14. What stunning photo’s once again Jo and I so enjoy going with you through your earlier travels. Your partner in crime is one hunk for sure! Thanks for sharing this beauty once again. *hugs*

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    1. Bless him, I’ve driven him to almost snowy white these days! It’s a shock to look back and see how dark haired he was, and how skinny! But I did think he was gorgeous. Thanks, darlin. Still enjoying the journey.

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      1. LOL! That sounds familiar. I don’t even look at our “younger” pics anymore. It just makes me depro. If we only knew what we know now. LOL! *hugs*

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  15. What is it about islands? I have the same fascination – in fact I live on one that is about 69 square miles in size. Perhaps the word “islomania” does, in fact, exist!

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    1. If it doesn’t, it should, because I’ve certainly got it. I only have to see an island in the bay and I want to be over there, looking back. Ha- that’s how I’m spending my time right now, but in the armchair!
      Many thanks for your visit.

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    1. Ha! I could’ve used them in the “Pale” challenge, Nicole! Yes, it’s been a bit of a task and my son constantly tells me I’m rubbish at it, but I’ve scanned yards of them from 20+ years ago. It seemed such a shame never to look at them, and where do I spend most of my time? Yep- right here!
      Glad you had such a good trip.

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  18. it looks divine … your photos brought back some tantalising aromas from our greek trip … we were only on corfu and crete and the mainland … perhaps we should go back next year!

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  19. When I went to Tinos there was a red carpet all along the road so that the crawling penitents wouldn’t scrape their knees – that was in 2005, when did you go?
    I really like your old pictures – so much better than Wiki!

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    1. How thoughtful! The only carpet was on the last flight of steps. That was 1989. Maybe a bit nearer the event in August?
      Thank you- they do have a bit of atmosphere, I think.

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      1. Yes, I’m sure you are right – I was there in July. Do you remember the shops that sold candles and little cards with body parts on them so that the penitents could leave them next to an icon and ask for a cure?
        I especially like that first picture – love those old buses waiting for the ferry!

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