H is for Happy Heart

Guimaraes, European City of Culture 2012

I was immensely taken with the heart logo which pops up everywhere in Guimaraes this year.  Designed by Joao Campos, it was inspired by the crenels of Guimaraes Castle and the helmet of King Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal.

I couldn’t be so close to Guimaraes without paying a visit in this, its special year as the European City of Culture.  “You are part of it” is a theme running throughout the year, and the logo is an important symbol of this. You might enjoy the promotional video  http://www.guimaraes2012.pt/index.php?cat=49&item=912&kword_cat= (choose 2012) I caught the train from Porto’s fabulous Sao Bento railway station to arrive on a sleepy Tuesday afternoon.

I didn’t know quite what to expect of Guimaraes, except that it would have a historic significance for the nation.  Everyone I had spoken to said it was very charming and captured “traditional Portugal”.  Of course, you know by now what traditional Portugal means to me, so, at the first hint of an azulejo, I was in through the doorway of the church of Sao Francisco.

Igreja de Sao Francisco

More cherubs!  I’m happy.

Michael’s photo of the altar was much better than mine

Guimaraes has its origins in the distant 10th century.  The widow Countess Mumadona Dias ordered the construction of a monastery in her estates at Vimaranes (Guimaraes today).  Constant attacks from the Moors and Normans necessitated a fort to defend the monks.  The Castle was built on a nearby hill, and a settlement grew up between the two, enclosed by walls.

In the 12th century, the County of Portucalem came into existence and the Castle became the residence of Count D. Henrique.  King Afonso Henriques was probably born here, and christened in the tiny chapel.  In 1128 the nearby Battle of Sao Mamede was instrumental in the founding of the Portuguese nation.

Modern Guimaraes from the castle walls

Walking back down from the vantage point of Guimaraes Castle, you cannot but be drawn to the Palace of the Dukes of Braganca.  I have visited the marble enhanced Braganca Palace at Vila Vicosa, and was intrigued by the difference.  Built in the 15th century, it is a unique example on the Iberian peninsula of a fortified house in the manorial style.

Braganca Palace with its distinctive chimneys

A collection of tapestries adorn the walls

A central courtyard captures the sunlight

The city’s first street, Rua de Santa Maria, unravels gently into the cluster of the old town, but not before you pass through Largo Martins Sarmento.  The fountain, with chapel beyond, makes a pretty picture.

Largo Martins Sarmento

The narrow streets wrap around two large squares, Praca de Santiago, and Largo da Oliveira.  The photo everybody’s keen to take features the old Council Chambers and Gothic Salado Monument.

Largo da Oliveira and Salado Monument

The square seen from beneath the old Council Chambers

Nice spot for a coffee, or something stronger

At the end of the 19th century, Guimaraes achieved city status, and sadly the city walls were demolished.  Let me end in Largo de Toural, the focal point of modern Guimaraes, and outside those city walls.  The legend “Aqui nasceu Portugal” – here Portugal was born- sits proudly on a remnant of wall.

One last heart in modern Toural Square- another Michael photograph

The old centre has UNESCO World Heritage status and this year every effort has been made to turn Guimaraes into an inviting tourist destination.  If you like what you see, there’s still time to visit.  The events are posted on www.guimaraes2012.pt

Me, I have a “happy heart” whenever I’m in Portugal.  Many thanks to Julie Dawn Fox who gave us the idea of “My Personal A-Z Challenge”  Follow the links to discover more, and maybe join in yourself.

72 comments

    1. Hi Rich! They’ve had a rolling programme of events all year but it was peaceful when we were there. It’s a nice hour train ride out of Porto, north towards Braga, so yes, inland. I know you weren’t lucky with your weather in November and I would think Guimaraes is a place for the Spring, but you could wrap up warm. One of the bits I didn’t have time for is a cable car ride up to the grottoes at Penha, which look amazing. (Google it?) I’ll have to go north another year because there’s a lot more I want to see in the area.
      No idea where’s European City of Culture next year?

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      1. I went to Porto a few years ago, and went on a day trip to a beach resort about half an hour north on a train – very nice sands, but not much else there.

        2013 is the turn of Derry in Northern Ireland, a country I’ve never been to so I might see if I can get there…

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  3. Bear with me;having a difficult time keeping up with blogs this week. Lots of care giving with MIL…but this place is absolutely enchanting and pulls me in. I love your architectural photos and seeing the dining hall with the tapestry reminds me, of course, of King Arthur ( I know…not in Portugal) but, a telling photo. The heart logo is indeed a creative work of art. Happy narrative. Thanks, Jo.

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  6. Were they having a contest for most creative “heart”? I love the one with the teapot! But each heart is so charming that I imagine it must have made you smile every time you spotted one. 🙂

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    1. Welcome, Tita! How are you? I thought the teapot in the linen shop was very clever too. I have a few more shots but they’re a bit wonky. Mick was getting impatient but I loved them.

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  8. These a wonderful shots and show a side of Portugal I didn’t know existed.
    I must say Jo, that your A-Z of Portugal has opened up a whole new world for me, it looks like such an interesting place, so next time I visit the UK I aim to pop over there and see for myself!
    Thanks for a great series.

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  17. I agree, Jo, the hearts are great. An imaginative way of incorporating the history and spirit Guimarães for its special year. I recognise all of the places in your photos except the Duke’s palace, which I still haven’t been inside. Next time…

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    1. The one thing I forgot was Penha and the grottoe, Julie. I wanted to go up on the cable car but couldn’t remember what was up there. Mick had had enough for the day and wanted to get back. I knew as soon as we were on the train back- curses! I had read a great blog about them but it was ages ago and I forgot.

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      1. I don’t know if we’ve read the same blog post but I’ve been meaning to get to Penha too and not made it yet. Just means we’ll have to go back another time 🙂

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  18. oh that’s just another place I’m going to have to add to my ‘places to visit’ list! – it just keep growing! lovely photos and thank you for finding out some of the history too!

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    1. I usually read up on the history, Aly, but I don’t often include much. My blog is more visual, wouldn’t you say? I always think that if people are interested in a subject, they can so easily find out. (given the time!)
      I need another trip north because I was desperate to do Bom Jesuit at Braga, Casa de Mateus and Aveiro. And some more of the Douro too. Oh dear!

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    1. It seems to have taken a lot of people like that. I was more enthralled with Monsaraz, and I loved Tomar, but I certainly thought Guimaraes had a lot of charm. Where else did you go? I’d love to see more of the Douro valley.

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