One of my earliest memories is of the blue and white Willow pattern plate that sat on a shelf of my grandmother’s Welsh dresser. It was side by side with a heavy glass plate, with The Lord’s Prayer etched around the rim. Commonplace in those days, I expect, but I loved them.
I don’t know if it’s that memory, or my lifelong embrace of the sparkling colours of the sea, but I’ve always loved the simplicity of blue and white. Imagine then, my response, on arriving in Portugal and finding that so many of it’s buildings have been lovingly clad in blue and white tiles.
Porto? Well, that was just the icing on the cake! Stepping out of Bolhao Metro, I turned down Rua de Santa Caterina. Immediately in my vision, the Capela das Almas, a solid wall of blue and white. It was late evening and dark, so the church was floodlit. What a welcome! I knew right then that coming to Porto was going to be all that I had hoped for.
The road dips gently down, passing famous Cafe Majestic (pinch me, I really am here!) and into Praca de Batalha. I just stood and stared, and stared.
Hauntingly lovely Igreja de Santo Ildefonso
After a night’s sleep, it just got better and better! Well, you’ve all heard of Sao Bento railway station, haven’t you? It was just around the corner.
I wasn’t so sure at first about the Se, or Cathedral. It has the Rose Window and the sturdy pillars of my own Durham Cathedral, back home, but step into the cloisters and you’re in a magical world. Climbing to the Royal Apartments and viewing terrace, I couldn’t imagine ever attending to the affairs of state with such a view on hand.
The view from the terrace above the cloisters
Stepping in to a fragile and wonderful world
Those courtly days
A cherub or two
A few more?
And one by the window, ready to steal a peep
A room fit for a king
Even the ceiling is gorgeous
But nothing surpasses blue and white
Of course, it doesn’t end there. There’s the Carmo Church in the University Quarter, a tile wall that I adore in Rua das Flores, and many others.
Just a glimpse of the Carmo Church, behind the Lion Fountain
Lovely Rua das Flores
But I don’t want to wear you out. We still have to travel up the Douro together. There was no shortage of azulejos there either, and the most stunning scenery I’ve seen in some time. So do come back, won’t you? I’m looking forward to it.
restlessjo 
Ooo that’s another addition to my list – funnily enough I was reading the Telegraph travel thingy at the weekend and spotted a package trip based in Povoa de Varzim!
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Grab it, Gilly, if it’s not too dear! I really do need to go back to the area, but the years seem to plan themselves almost without my intervention. I’m in Poland with Dad in May and possibly back there for another wedding later in the year. 🙂 Can hardly complain, can I?
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Aaaaah! Stunning. My Royal Copenhagen and I love this! The outside of the bdlg on Rue Flores is beee-u-ti-ful!
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That’s just how I felt, Cindy!
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Absolutely glorious photos and magnificent architecture. I’ve wanted to visit for years, but the last time we were in Portugal (Sintra/Lisboa) it was so wet that we were getting sick of the weather and didn’t feel like going any further north so we never made it. Must try harder next time!
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Yes, there’s a large element of luck with the weather up there, and it changes your viewpoint completely. It’s strange, both Michael and myself felt a sort of “northern affinity” with Porto. It’s definitely “rough round the edges” so might suit you too.
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Haha! I do hope you are careful who you say that one to. Some people might take it the wrong way 😉
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It was designed with you in mind. No offence!
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Stunning! I am a fan of blue & white porcelain too, but have never seen such an abundance in one place ever! Shall have to nudge up Porto on my bucket list 🙂
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Really, I keep on about it, but it is a great city, Madhu.
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Tnanks Mr. B. I could not believe how many of these works of art there were in Porto. It is such a beautiful city, though shabby and down at heel in places. A combination that would make you smile, I know.
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An inspiring, priceless blue and white work of Art. I am so amazed of how they did it and of the gifted talent behind each piece. Thanks for sharing a post so beautiful.
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Wow!I had no idea Portugal had all these tiles, they remind me of Delft in the Netherlands, which is where I associate blue and white tiles with, but these are absolutely stunning.
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Hi Lorna! Yes, they’re gorgeous aren’t they? Part of the reason I fell in love with Portugal in the first place. Yes, there is a connection to Delft. There are a couple of links in my comments to the Wikipedia “Azulejo” page which is really interesting.
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I love the blue and white! So beautiful!!
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Thanks Sherry. I love it too!
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Great post Jo and blue is my favourite colour.
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Thanks David. Not doing too badly for blue are we, so long as you discount the rain, and thunder and lightening!
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How gorgeous, Jo!
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It really was, Cath.
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